eternalphoenix64 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 My clutch had a catastrophic failure not too long ago. One of the rivets gave way and the clutch grenaded itself. Not from rough driving, by the way. I learned my lesson on that a few years ago when I had to rebuild an engine in another car. Anyways, prior to that, I had been having synchro issues in 3rd and 4th as well as 4th gear popping out of gear occasionally. To save time, money (possibly), and effort I want to just replace the transmission with one from a junkyard. I can go to Pick N Pull and get one for $150. I know that I can't use a transmission from a 2.2, but what years and trim levels can I pull from and not have any issues? I was told I can't use a trans from a 95 or 99, only 96-98. How accurate is that? Also, the new clutch as a really unpredictable release point and feels MUCH softer than the old one. Is this a symptom of the throw out bearing catching on the input shaft a little or did I end up with the wrong part or both? Any help/advice is greatly appreciated. This is my first Subaru and I love it. Aside from this, I haven't had any problems with it for 2 years, when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Try changing the trans oil as it should be using an extr s 80w90 or equivalent synchromesh oil that meets GL-5 standard. straight gear oil lacks the proper additive for brass synchros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalphoenix64 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 That might help with prevention..... My problem is that they're already toast and I have an issue with it popping out of 4th gear. So I need to replace the trans. So I want a good used one, but I need to know all my options for pulling from the junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 the one a friend drove got worse over the course of a year in terms of popping out of gear and synchro issues. Any 1995-1998 (and 99 OBW and Legacy) manual transmission will work if you also grab the matching rear differential. And probably, someone else can confirm - any 1990-1994 transmission as well. two differences that are not issues: 1. cable and hydraulic clutches are easily interchanged, just swap the bits out before installing the transmission, it's all external. 2. bell housing bolt number changed in 1998 - but i doesn't matter you can swap 4 and 8 bolt bellhousing transmissions. MT's are either 4.11 or 3.9 final drive ratio - that's the only two major differences in 1995-1998 (& 99 OBW/Legacy). All Ej25's, like yours, are 4.11. EJ22's are 3.9. If you want to get one with the same 4.11 final drive ratio then get a manual transmission from any EJ25 vehicle - which for 1999 and earlier basically means any:OBW or GT - since those always have EJ25's. or LSi's with EJ25 (though i'm not sure LSi's ever came with manual trans and EJ25). I don't think every year has an LSi or LSi with EJ25 option, but if it is LSi with EJ25 and manual trans - it would be the same. 1998 forester and impreza will work too but probably rare. *** 1999 auto trans went phase II - if that also affects MT's - then 1999 Forester and Impreza RS may not be interchangeable or may require a bit of extra work in terms of wiring/speed sensor. They are Phase II in 1999 (legacy and outback are not phase II in 99 so this doens't apply to them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AEROCOOK Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 A word of advice if you plan on getting a scrap yard transmission. Save the center diff / viscous coupler assembly from your old transmission. Scrap yard cars are usually towed in, likely with the front wheels up and the rear wheels turning, this will toast the viscous coupler. It takes all of 10 minutes to remove the center diff if the transmission is already out, so it's worth the effort. Ask me why I know all of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 (edited) or LSi's with EJ25 (though i'm not sure LSi's ever came with manual trans and EJ25) correct, no manual trans in the ej25 LSi. also correct, any 96 - 99 ej25 manual will bolt in and work. but there may be a speedo error if you use an outback or forester trans. (about 5 - 6%) they have slightly different speedo gears due to the different tire size, this will cause your speedo to read faster than actual speed. speedo reads 65, actual speed 62.4, this assumes your speedo is dead accurate now, and it probably isn't. they usually read faster than actual from the factory. this could be corrected / lessened by installing larger tires. Edited September 11, 2014 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Popping out of 4th gear is not a synchro issue. That's a worn mainshaft bearing. The trans won't make it another 10k miles anyway. 96-98 Legacy GT, or Legacy Outback are your best choices. 98 Forester will also work. 99-04 Legacy Outback and GT use a phase 2 trans but it will bolt up work just the same, you just need to tap threads for the lower starter hole and run a bolt into the bellhousing. But for that trans you have to have the speed sensor that matches that trans. The phase 1 trans has a larger speed sensor that will not fit on the phase 2 trans. Per the clutch question, give it a few weeks and the feel will return to normal. When everything is new and freshly greased the clutch actuation is very easy. That goes away after a few weeks as the parts break in and that new grease on the release arm pivot and the release bearing squeezes out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalphoenix64 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 I know the 4th gear isn't a synchro issue, but it ALSO has had a synchro issue. Should I take it that a 99 Forester wouldn't work? I use an app that can check the pick-n-pulls locally and a 99 Forester was added just a couple days ago with a 2.5 5 speed. Also, why can I not use a trans from a 95 Legacy GT/OB? Or was there just no 2.5 option in 95? I don't want to deal with tapping any threads, so I'm staying away from phase 2. For the clutch, that would make sense if I had actually added grease to anything. At least part of it I feel is the throwout bearing catching a little on an edge (I especially feel this is the case during release as the pedal sometimes stops briefly before catching up with my foot). I've already driven it more than the normal 500 mile break in that is pretty standard on all clutches. If anything it has gotten worse, not better. I can now add that sometimes when coming to a stop (in gear, applying brakes, clutch pedal down) that the clutch does not fully disengage. Usually if I clutch again I can get it out of gear, and usually can still get it back in after that. It's been random, it isn't every time and I haven't noticed any practice that really guarantees that I will need to do it. The only way I can guarantee to not do it is to leave it in neutral while braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 99 forester uses the same trans as the 99+ outback. It will work with the same mods as mentioned above. I meant to include that in the list. There was no GT option in 95. The 95 Outback was not a "True" Outback. It still had the 3.9 FDR which is the only reason that trans won't work. Your clutch is hydraulic right? The symptoms you just described indicate a hydraulic issue. Either air in the system or a leak in the slave cylinder. The slave cylinders tend to fail after being removed from the trans because the piston extends all the way to the end of the cylinder, past its normal travel, where there's a bunch of scale and crud that cuts the seal on the piston. Fluid leaks out under the dust boot on the pushrod, air gets in. Causes clutch actuation problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalphoenix64 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Slave and master both have only about 5000 miles on them. Not much crud to damage them, fluid is still clean, and I diagnosed today that it only happens in first and second (had clutch down in third, no issues, shifted to second, suddenly had the issue). So I'm doubting it is hydraulic, but it's possible.... I'll try bleeding the hydraulics. Could I save some work tapping by just swapping bell housings? Which sensor is the speed sensor? Will the connector be the same? Would Forester size tires fit (and clear) in the wheel wells? I won't need tires for a few years probably, but having the info would be nice. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Incomplete disengagement of the clutch is a hydraulic issue. That notch you feel in the pedal is the kickback from the pedal assist spring. When the pedal is up that spring forces the pedal to the top of its travel to ensure the master cylinder pistons is moved all the way back to the beginning of its bore. When the pedal is pushed down the spring assists with holding the pedal down by applying slight pressure. The tipping point for the spring is about mid travel of the pedal. Feedback pressure from the pressure plate would normally push the pedal back past that point and you won't feel the pedal kick up. When there is not enough pressure plate movement to fully release the clutch, the feedback pressure doesn't push the pedal back all the way. It only gets about 1/2 way, then your foot starts to lift off the pedal because the force pushing back on the pedal is very small at that point. Then it finally gets to the tipping point of the assist spring, which kicks the pedal back up to the top. Disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the pedal and you can push the pedal down and feel the action and the tipping point of the spring. Air in the system causes incomplete travel of the release arm, thus incomplete release of the pressure plate. The bellhousing is a molded part of the main case and can't be swapped. Tapping threads for a bolt takes all of 30 seconds since its aluminum. The hole is the perfect size to tap to M12x1.75, and this size bolt should fit through the hole on the starter. If not there is very little trimming needed to make it fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalphoenix64 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Sounds about right, I'll check into it. Just a couple quick symptoms to add, don't know if it will change diagnosis.... I only notice that problem in 1st or second gear, and sometimes when I'm releasing, the pedal not only stops, but begins to travel back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalphoenix64 Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Ok, so I bled the clutch system, didn't help matters much. Can someone confirm something for me.... I can use a trans from an EJ22? Just speedometer might be off? Provided, of course, that it's AWD. I know the final drive gear ratio is different, but the trans itself has identical gear ratios. I really need to get a trans ASAP before this one goes out completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 you can use it, but you need to add a matching rear diff as well. grab the rear diff from the same car. They have to match. You can use a 4.11 with your diff. Or swap the 3.9 trans and a 3.9 diff. If you put a 3.9 trans in with a 4.11 diff you're going to have issues and things will break. But since you're in a hurry to get it on the road, spending a little extra time and $$$ on the 3.9 diff is a fine option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Final drive ratio HAS TO MATCH THE REAR DIFF. No way around that. 1-5 ratios can be entirely different, final drive is the one that has to match. If you can't find a trans that matches your current FDR, get a trans and rear diff that match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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