Parasitic electrical drain. 06 legacy Need help

[1chersman]

I'm working on my wife's 06 Legacy GT. We've got some sort a parasitic electrical drain going on. Using my meter, I found it's drawing right at .1 amp, but I cannot locate the source of the draw. I've yanked every fuse and relay and still can't locate any source. The only way I can get any movement in my meter reading is to disconnect the main screw terminal fuse under the hood or disconnect the top positive battery terminal. ( which appears to feed that fuse). Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[lstevens76]

Is the CD player working?  I've read it's pretty common for the CD player to malfunction and keep clicking on eject.

[Fairtax4me]

0.10 amp isn't much of a draw for a modern car.

What symptoms are you having that make you think there is a parasitic draw?

How old is the battery?

[1chersman]

I read that about the CD player as well. It seems to be working fine (rarely use it anymore). I did eject the 4 CDs that were in the deck with no problem.

As for the battery, its from August 13 and has tested fine from 2 separate parts stores. The reason I believe it's a parasite is the car cant sit for more than 24 hours without needing a jump. I'm also on my 3rd battery in 3-4 years (once I ultimately replace the current one). The alternator also checks out per parts store check. I don't know what else it could be

[nipper]

Ok lets back up. I do not trust parts stores.

 

Lets do a real alt test. Turn EVERYTHING on in the car, raise the engine RPM to 1800 and take a voltage reading. Lest start right there.

 

Next is the (Parking light switch on top of the column) virgin switch off?

 

Clean the terminals.

 

Has anyone checked the battery voltage when the car won't start before jumping it? It can be bad starter contacts. 

[lstevens76]

The only way to get a proper test an alternator is to pull it and have them test it off the car.

The one on my 90 legacy l was charging but the voltage regulator was bad so it was producing too much power. Killed the battery and just caused headaches.

To note 2 parts stores and interstate all said the charging system was fine even though I had dash lights on.

Replaced the alternator with one from pick a part and all was good.

Edited April 13, 2015 by lstevens76

[nipper]

Er um, no. You test it on the car like its been done for the last 40 years. They should be using a nice analog tester or a volt meter, as described above. 

[lstevens76]

Er um, no. You test it on the car like its been done for the last 40 years. They should be using a nice analog tester or a volt meter, as described above. 

 

Uh, no you pull it off the car and have them put in a system to test it.  They test it at current low RPM's and at high RPM's this way to verify there is no fluctuation.

 

They have been doing that for 40 years.  And that is the only way to properly get a full accurate test of an alternator.

 

Testing it on the car does not show if you have fluctuations at highway speed, if brushes are giving out at higher rpm, etc....

 

There has been more than one occasion that I've been in where an alternator appeared to be working fine, but when you have it tested off the vehicle it turns it was the problem.  It's a different kind of test because of the fact the machine spins it at various speeds and checks readings from what it is supposed to be.

 

Off the car tests is also how they test them at rebuild and new manufacturer places and provide the specs as to what they are supposed to produce at various points.

 

Oreilly, NAPA, Autozone, and most other parts stores will do an off the car test free of charge if you take it in.

Edited April 13, 2015 by lstevens76