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P1518 code, SOMETIMES 130, 420 codes baffled
Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:25 AM
After new motor install my car would randomly just start running bad until it wouldn't run at all and idle rough, floored it would barely go and got progressively worse over the course of a couple months. "Everyone" said the fuel filter, so I replaced it, original had black sediment. Ran great for about 15 miles, started running rough again, replaced the fuel filter again ( thinking the new one got clogged). The gas in the new one I had just replaced was perfectly clear no sediment, keep running worse, Had it checked out and was told it was the bank 1 sensor sensor 1 . Researched it and replaced the O2 sensor myself. Ran great for a few miles, literally ten miles or so. It was placed on a code reader and I was told the catalytic converter... after a new motor and a few misc new tune up parts and new clutch assembly I couldn't afford a $661 CC. SO my friends mechanics for their snowmobile tour company "punched through" it. After this it ran "ok". Was still hesitating and missing... my friend told me to drive it and maybe it would "blow out" somewhat. It would randomly start running rough and then miraculously run great. Check engine light would come on. I borrowed a code reader to clear it and have just dealt with its unrealiabilty for several months now racking my brain and I thought this solved the problem until it wouldn't anyone's that I would discuss it with. Purchased my own code reader and now I get consistently the P1518 code when the light goes on... symptoms act like lack of fuel... ALSO at one point I bypassed the clutch safety switch because every so often it won't start... originally I THOUGHT THIS WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM UNTIL I DISCOVERED IT STILL randomly doesn't start. When this happens I take a metal rod and bang the starter and then it started. Never removed the jumper for the clutch safety switch.. its still in place. Went to pick a part and found an '04 forester with steering columns exposed and for a new starter switch since the P code indicated it was the problem (bad connection etc).
Found it's going to require some dismantling of the columns and blinker light switch to replace. That's where I'm at... any clues or suggestions? Oh yes and every so often I get the 420 and C 02 code as well. Also I replaced the bank 1 sensor 1 AGAIN after being told the first one could have been faulty.
Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:32 AM
Posted 21 September 2017 - 08:53 PM
P0130 is a code for the front O2 sensor. The signal voltage is out of the acceptable range. Two main questions:
Did you buy a direct plug-in sensor or a universal sensor that you had to cut and connect wires?
Does the car have California emissions?
P0420 you're stuck with until you replace the cat. Totally benign, annoying to deal with the light but won't affect the way the car runs.
P1518 code doesn't have anything to do with the way the engine runs. It's simply a signal circuit from the key switch to the ECU that tells the ECU the key has been turned to start. The ECU uses that to simply record data on how long the engine has been running and some other really non-important things. Again, Annoying to deal with the light but will not affect the way the engine runs. Figure out the running problem first. Do not replace the ignition switch, it's not the problem.
Posted 22 September 2017 - 10:24 AM
the reason it runs well after a reset is likely due to a bad sensor - as fairtax mentioned - the car uses a factory rom 'map' to run the car with and then uses the sensors to modify a:f ratios in 'learning' mode.
I'd suggest you may need a starter solenoid rebuild too. Wouldn't hurt to check the knock sensor.
Posted 20 October 2017 - 02:04 PM
where do you plug in a code reader?
My vehicle is a 1999 Legacy OBW....
Thanks in advance.
Posted 20 October 2017 - 02:54 PM
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