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Under-Dash Connectors, Read Memory mode & WTB: RX Window Switches...


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After finally getting over my fear of working on The Subie (1998 RX 3door liftback, D/R FT4wd, EA82T, Coupe, white :)) I dug in and started working.

 

First off, I replaced the stock front (8ohm, 10w max, 6.5") speakers with some nice Pioneers.

 

I then tackled the issue of being unable to roll down the passenger window from the passenger side. In doing so, I disassembled all the door switches to clean the contacts and verify proper operation.

 

I pull the driver side switch assembly, but it feels sloppy, so I take a look at the back:

switch.jpg

 

So, anybody have the switch assembly (whole thing, wires, etc. if available) for the driver side? I'm looking to buy ASAP.

 

I then tackled new plugs, done easily enough, but plug #4 was excedingly tough to turn. I'm worried the previous owner stripped the whole. :-\

 

I then wanted to flash back the code that was stored in the ECU, so I looked up how to do that then went in search of the mysterious connectors, however, I found them already attached:

readmem.jpg

 

Is there any harm in driving with these connected? The previous owner must have connected them at some point and left them as such. I know that in other vehicles shorting the diag. port to flash codes causes other things to occur as well...

 

I then dug into the underside of the dash, and found the following:

underdash.jpg

 

Now, the green connectors (red arrows) are the D-Mode connectors for setting timing and such if I'm not mistaken. The orange arrow is the O2 light that I watch to blink back codes. However, I'm slightly at a loss as to what these other connectors are. The Green arrow points to a connector that comes out of the same bundle as the black one that is identical in plug type. Also, there is what seems to be a 5 connector plug (blue arrow) that doesn't seem to go into much. Now, as usual, they could go to options I don't have, or just be things of no value to me, but I'm curious as to if anyone knows what they're for.

 

Now, with the white connectors connected, and the key in the ON position, the first time I watch the O2 light, I get a code.... however, I then turn the key off, then back on. I now only get steady 1+second blinks. No longs, no shorts. Does the ON -> Key Out -> ON maneuver reset the codes or something?

 

Lastly, has anyone ever simplified the Code reading procedure? I was pondering opening the ECU and soldering 2 small gage wires to the LED and running them up into an empty switch bay in the dash. Therefore I wouldn't need to pop off that under-dash cover everytime I wanted access, or to read a code. A 2 prong connector from Radio Shack could even be installed to allow for the remote LED to be disconnected.

 

Thoughts? Help? Comments? Switch for sale, PM me PLEASE!

Thanks for your time,

-James W.

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Heres my take on a couple of things.

 

1- Window switch housing. I have had the same problem in every one of my soobs. I found the easiest solution has been some longer and slightly fatter screws. Once I have done that, I have never had to mess with it again.

switch.jpg

 

 

2- Connectors. While all of the info about codes and such given above is correct, the connectors below are not any kind of diagnostic connectors. They are the power and ground wires for the vacuum solenoids that control your difflock.

readmem.jpg

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in response to the window switch screw holes you should pretty much expect that. every one i have takenoff the hole were cracked including my 87 RX that has NEVER BEN APART. what ihave found to work best are inch ong wood scews witha fine threat asn a sharp tip, enough to bite into the plastic at the bottom of the holes. just be sure they dont poke thru if you torque them too much!

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Calebz,

Now, I'm confused.

Are those white connectors the correct ones or not? As per the thread One more time....How do you check ECU trouble codes on EA82?...

On SPFI models they are found under the hoodby the driver's side hood hinge.

and

Do this by connecting the Read Memory connectors with engine off, then turning on ignition (Loyale: white connectors next to green D-mode connectors, near fuel filter on left shock tower).

 

Everything I've been told makes my Subie a Loyale... so, if those white connectors aren't the Read Memory connectors, what are?

 

Shadow, Thanks for all the input. I'm used to cars in general, but new ro subaru's... expect PMs ;-)

 

 

Anyone have thoughts on my 'remote' O2 sensor light?

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Your car is an 88 RX coupe right?

 

If so, its the same body as a loyale, but it is not a loyale..

 

MOST(not all) of the loyale's are SPFI, in which case, the connectors are under the hood where you described.

However, yours being an RX, the connectors are under the dash. The white connector you show in pic #2 is simply the wiring for the difflock switch.(that little switch in the center console that locks the center differential in your transmission.

 

I will try to get out and get a pic of the read memory connectors for you later today.

 

The o2 monitor light in the ECU that you have a pic of is the light that blinks out the error codes in the various diagnostic settings.

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The o2 monitor light in the ECU that you have a pic of is the light that blinks out the error codes in the various diagnostic settings.
I got that much. I'm just confused as to where the read memory connectors are in the RX. Once I figure this out, I plan on a writeup w/pics.
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The white connector you show in pic #2 is simply the wiring for the difflock switch.(that little switch in the center console that locks the center differential in your transmission.

 

.

i was just about to say, since after playing ith jim's turbo wagon, the white clip calebz mentions looks like one to the valve for the air strut. not to say he's wrong, but any pushbutton 5spd 4wd has the same connector for the 4wd mechanism(which is the same mechanism for any with the diff lock)

 

oh yeah, one more thing, any 3-door body drivers window switch will be tha same and work the same, as long as you find the right color you want. passenger switches are the same for any model, but a rear switch may have a longer wire

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