88targarose

I may be selling the RX... so, -1 Downpipe... Sorry guys.

The two I'd been looking at heavily are the Zeitronix ZT-2, and the Innovative Motorsports LM-1. They both offer some very nice computer logging features, but the feature that reallllly grabs my attention is the mountable LCD readout for the ZT-2. It's the kit I've been thinking about getting myself. Also, with the base prices being $349 for the LM-1 and $279 for the Zeitronix (Not incl. LCD Display, $399 with it) makes things even more tempting. However, in many applications to get the most outta the hardware it's nice to have a laptop to do wideband logging on. So, instead of nitrous runs where merely watching a gauge rise or fall you can log it. Personally, the ZT-2 is the way I think I'm going. $399 for the whole package, it can take inputs from other model EGT sensors (which I've got), simulates a stock narrowband signal for the stock ECU, does 9 hours of datalogging, has inputs for boost and TPS and so forth, etc... For the price and the features, I don't know how I can go wrong.

If you've only got a narrowband gauge (since it's reading off a stock O2 sensor) it's nowhere near accurate. They're more eyecandy. Calling one accurate is like calling the french a dominating world power, it's just not correct.

Technically speaking, it should never vent to atmosphere. It should intercept the boost line between the turbo and the wastegate. Since it's disabled though, it seems to throw a code. To disable this, I was going to T into the boost line, and then into the control solenoid, then block of the other side. This way, it thinks it's functioning, but isn't really.

I assume it's the same as any electronic controled boost control solenoid. It watches boost levels, and when it hits the predetermined level, it dumps the pressure into the wastegate actuator, therefor limiting boost. In theory, if I T into it, it will only vent pressure once I've hit the stock boost level. That'll cause me to run richer, since I'm bleeding off metered air. Ok, now that we've pondered that code, what can I do about the rest?

Hmm... I wonder if I could plumb a line into it, and cap the exit side of it. Just to make it think it's doing something and get rid of the code....

The 20+psi boost spike was caused by the fact that the wastegate line had popped off one of the plastic fittings. With the wastegate line unattached there was no pressure to tell the wastegate to open, therefore I ran boost until something else stopped me. But, since the computer isn't controlling boost, and it can see that it goes higher than the stock boost setting, would that throw a code 44?

I believe it to be a stock turbo. Now, it wasn't efficent up through that range. It was just blowing hot air, but the gauge was registering as beyond 20psi. I think it's my altitude + low compression that saved me. But again, it was merely a spike, NEVER EVEERRRRR ran it like that for any period of time.

That does indeed sound like what I'm looking at. Now, back to the question at hand. Would that throw a code 44?

Timing mark - Go figure. I'll check that tomorrow. Codes - If resetting the codes goes like this: - Key off - Green Plugs in - Start car - let run a minute - turn all the way off, remove key - unplug green plugs --> Connect Read Mem plugs, read codes... Then I did that, those are the codes I got. Disabling fuel cut - I've got no clue how this was done, there's a solenoid of some type on the passenger firewall that's completely unplugged (bare pneumatic ends (2 or 3) expose, no tubes) but other than that, that's my best guess.... I'll post pics of it later, maybe it's the solenoid that's causing the diff lock not to work... HOWEVER, I do know that @ ~22-25psi there is a jerk from the turbo. On the frontage roads once, I nailed the throttle headed back to work, boosting along happily when I get a hugggge jerk. I've got no clue what it is. But I've felt fuel cut before in a Mk3 Supra. So, on a hunch I look down at my boost gauge and nail it. Reaches 19psi before I decide that's enough for me. So, if I do have fuel cut it's in excess of 1.5bar (21psi)...

Alright, more fun from me. I dug more into the RX (For those that missed the first segment, 1988 EA82-T, d/r ft4wd w/diff lock, MT 5pd.) only to find the following, First, The mystery Fuse (Click it, I got a "too many images in your signature or in your previous post" message so I made this a link) ... I noticed this little black box chilling on the strut tower. Curious, I opened it to find a blown, 15amp fuse. I replaced it, however, I don't see any large difference now. I turn the Diff. lock switch to On and it makes no noise (Still have to diagnose the Diff Lock, it doesn't seem to work, no dash lights either), however, I then turn it off and hear a nice click from the engine bay. Being by myself, I've got no one to help me discern where the click comes from. Second, Where the **** is the timing mark on this crank pulley? I spend 25mins w/a timing light attached trying to find it, to no avail. Just those two holes on the left of the pulley, and I don't know if they're there for a reason or just there to be there. Third, I spent a little bit of time chasing down the infamous White Read Memory connectors. I looked and looked and looked. I found some random connectors but none seemed to have a mate to plug into. So, on a whim, I connected these two black connectors: I then turn the key to On, and what do I see? The O2 light flashing in a very pattern-esque method. I write down the codes: 21 23 32 42 44 Now, the only error code list I can find that even lists #44 is This one for the MPFI 88+ Vehicles. So, I go by its list... 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 - Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy) 32 - Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX) 42 - Idle Switch or Circuit 44 - Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) Hmm.. Now, this seems a tad funky. The list mentions an SVX code. The RX is not an SVX last time I checked.... So, I'm a little confused. Also, #44, the previous owner disabled the fuel cut and I run the boost up to 10psi (7.7:1 compression + 5280ft elevation makes it a dog off boost). Could this be causing the code 44? As for the others, (if the black connectors + the list is accurate) I'm at a loss. I'm new to Subaru's.... Thanks! -James W.

I still want a DP.... header isn't that apeasing...

Any photos? I'm a little leery to just randomly connect any of these loose harnesses together under the dash w/o knowing which is which...

Shadow, Thanks again! I'm coming to expect some good posts from you. The information has been quite handy.

I got that much. I'm just confused as to where the read memory connectors are in the RX. Once I figure this out, I plan on a writeup w/pics.

Calebz, Now, I'm confused. Are those white connectors the correct ones or not? As per the thread One more time....How do you check ECU trouble codes on EA82?... and Everything I've been told makes my Subie a Loyale... so, if those white connectors aren't the Read Memory connectors, what are? Shadow, Thanks for all the input. I'm used to cars in general, but new ro subaru's... expect PMs ;-) Anyone have thoughts on my 'remote' O2 sensor light?

After finally getting over my fear of working on The Subie (1998 RX 3door liftback, D/R FT4wd, EA82T, Coupe, white ) I dug in and started working. First off, I replaced the stock front (8ohm, 10w max, 6.5") speakers with some nice Pioneers. I then tackled the issue of being unable to roll down the passenger window from the passenger side. In doing so, I disassembled all the door switches to clean the contacts and verify proper operation. I pull the driver side switch assembly, but it feels sloppy, so I take a look at the back: So, anybody have the switch assembly (whole thing, wires, etc. if available) for the driver side? I'm looking to buy ASAP. I then tackled new plugs, done easily enough, but plug #4 was excedingly tough to turn. I'm worried the previous owner stripped the whole. :-\ I then wanted to flash back the code that was stored in the ECU, so I looked up how to do that then went in search of the mysterious connectors, however, I found them already attached: Is there any harm in driving with these connected? The previous owner must have connected them at some point and left them as such. I know that in other vehicles shorting the diag. port to flash codes causes other things to occur as well... I then dug into the underside of the dash, and found the following: Now, the green connectors (red arrows) are the D-Mode connectors for setting timing and such if I'm not mistaken. The orange arrow is the O2 light that I watch to blink back codes. However, I'm slightly at a loss as to what these other connectors are. The Green arrow points to a connector that comes out of the same bundle as the black one that is identical in plug type. Also, there is what seems to be a 5 connector plug (blue arrow) that doesn't seem to go into much. Now, as usual, they could go to options I don't have, or just be things of no value to me, but I'm curious as to if anyone knows what they're for. Now, with the white connectors connected, and the key in the ON position, the first time I watch the O2 light, I get a code.... however, I then turn the key off, then back on. I now only get steady 1+second blinks. No longs, no shorts. Does the ON -> Key Out -> ON maneuver reset the codes or something? Lastly, has anyone ever simplified the Code reading procedure? I was pondering opening the ECU and soldering 2 small gage wires to the LED and running them up into an empty switch bay in the dash. Therefore I wouldn't need to pop off that under-dash cover everytime I wanted access, or to read a code. A 2 prong connector from Radio Shack could even be installed to allow for the remote LED to be disconnected. Thoughts? Help? Comments? Switch for sale, PM me PLEASE! Thanks for your time, -James W.

Isn't the factory redline like 6.5?

My speedo sticks as well, but I took the average. I understand that the flat-4 motor is designed to handle turning 4,000 just fine, it just seems odd coming from driving vehicles that turn sub-2,800rpms on the freeway.

I assumed as much, but I was just making sure that no one out there had performed a radical modification to the DR setup or the final drive ratio. By Pugs you mean 15" Pugeot rims that match the stock wheel bolt pattern?

Pretty much as the topic says. I'm used to other vehicles which have much longer gears and a much lower 5th/freeway gear. 4,000 seems high to be turning for multiple hours on a freeway. Is there a way to change the gearing to bring this down some or is it just fine and I'm a lunatic? BTW: The vehicle is an 1988 RX 3dr liftback, EA82T w/dr 5spd, stock 13" wheel/tire combo.

I meant that the 2,300 was a dry weight, I just got myself all confuzzled.

Alright, I was just curious. I know that in my supra I have to use a feeler gauge and a multi-meter. Was just curious if there was such a thing on the ea82t.

I'm quite familiar with turbocharging, I understand however it's something I hadn't checked on the vehicle yet. I've seen much weirder things happen (boost spiking, overboost conditions, etc.) Besides that fact it seems odd to have boost coming on as late as it does (3.5-4) with such a tiny turbo. So it's something I plan to check. Is there not an official TPS calibration procedure?

According to the owners manual, they list it at 2,300lbs! Could the 2,520lbs number be a dry weight?