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EA82T Masters: Help Me Fix One Small Issue...SOLVED!! read last post


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38 replies to this topic

#26 WJM

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 04:18 PM

The intersting thing is....in the last year, it looks like SOA hiked the price up about $30....

#27 Do It Sidewayz

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 05:40 PM

It Does seem like you are running a tad bit lean when you come back into the power. If not lean in general.

I'd really suggest that you get an EGT gauge on there, and put the probe in the pass side of the manifold, as that side is the ones that usually blow.

Yes...i did say before that one of the only ways we could keep out EA82T's together was to run 45-50PSI fuel pressure, and race fuel. Without that, we run too lean/hot and end up melting away pistons.

I would really look into injectors, at the very least.

The problem with just adding injectors is that you are going to be running rich when you aren't under boost. For this reason you need a method of adjustment. An Apex-i SAFC or Greddy Emanage will work really well...although cost some $$$$

I just put an emanage on my Turbo Justy project, and let me tell you it's well worth it. Before i was running with very primitive fuel management controls (FPR, and a potentiometer to make the car think it was running colder and give it more fuel)

With the Emanage i can add injector duty cycle ontop of what the stock ECU is doing, Advance and pull timing, then run additional injectors. I just sit there with my laptop and adjust everything realtime, or sit at my desk and adjust the maps.

Right now...the justy will outrun a modded Legacy Turbo, which has an JDM Ej20G installed, with 15 PSI of boost, and full exhaust.

WJM...the "soft" rev-limiter you are talking about....well hate to say it, but you are floating the valves. It will sound exactly like you are hitting a rev-limiter, but the valves will start to float and you aren't gonna make anymore rpm.


The intersting thing is....in the last year, it looks like SOA hiked the price up about $30....



#28 garner

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 06:15 PM

It Does seem like you are running a tad bit lean when you come back into the power. If not lean in general.

I'd really suggest that you get an EGT gauge on there, and put the probe in the pass side of the manifold, as that side is the ones that usually blow.


In general, my A/F meter (I know, just a ballpack approximation) runs well in the rich side of stoich. I need to go do these tests at night because the leds are hard to see the way I've got the guage mounted. Sometimes, the A/F just wanders, sweeping back and forth from rich to lean and back,. then it will settle down back in the rich side of stoich.

The last time I drove it and tried to find this lag thing, It was super sunny so I couldn't tell what the guage was doing during and after the lag, maybe tonight.....

garner

#29 WJM

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 06:27 PM

Yes...i did say before that one of the only ways we could keep out EA82T's together was to run 45-50PSI fuel pressure, and race fuel. Without that, we run too lean/hot and end up melting away pistons.

WJM...the "soft" rev-limiter you are talking about....well hate to say it, but you are floating the valves. It will sound exactly like you are hitting a rev-limiter, but the valves will start to float and you aren't gonna make anymore rpm.


From what experience is this that you need to run the higher fuel presure?

On the valve float....back when I had the 9.5:1 bottom end, it would do the same...but at 5500. Also, the RX i have, in its glory days of Delta cams...it pulled well past 6k and never lost power or "hit that revlimiter"....the valves and springs and retianers are factory stock on both engines, and the only difference is the GL-10 has stock cams, and that RX had Delta cams, and 677-260 ones.


So is that stil valve float? if so...explain why my RX didnt do it....

#30 Do It Sidewayz

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Posted 29 July 2004 - 06:46 PM

From what experience is this that you need to run the higher fuel presure?

On the valve float....back when I had the 9.5:1 bottom end, it would do the same...but at 5500. Also, the RX i have, in its glory days of Delta cams...it pulled well past 6k and never lost power or "hit that revlimiter"....the valves and springs and retianers are factory stock on both engines, and the only difference is the GL-10 has stock cams, and that RX had Delta cams, and 677-260 ones.


So is that stil valve float? if so...explain why my RX didnt do it....


We have been ice racing XT's, RX's, whatever with EA82T motors for about 8 years. We on average go through about 2 or 3 motors a year between about 5 cars.

Your RX is probably an 88...meaning a few year newer valve springs. Your valve float won't always be in the same place depending on the engine. It great depends on who drove the car. If the engine was red-lined everyday of it's life then the valve springs will have weakened more. However if the car was an auto, and shifted at 4,000 ever day of it's life it's completely different story.

BTW.. i have also go karting for about 8 years and in our kart engines, New valve springs will float at 6,500 rpm. however 3 race old springs will float at 6,100-6,200 rpm. That is a BIG difference when you can gear for 300 more RPM at the end of the longest straight.

#31 WJM

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Posted 31 July 2004 - 06:17 PM

Update on the supposid valve float....

a night or two ago, I went to 6300, held it there and shifted FAST to 3rd, was at 4200-4300 or so...it didnt go ANYWHERE...sounded like that revlimiter at 6300....so i kept it WOT thinking it would clear up...no dice, atleast 15-20 seconds it did this. I let all the way out of it for a few seconds, got back in it, and away it went like nothing happeded.

Whats the deal with that?

#32 garner

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 12:28 PM

If you remember and or just read the first post I was having an issue with my EA82T. I was hitting what I thought was fuel cut, at random, usually associated with trying to accelerate hard and fast.

I swapped out the accel coil, no difference

Put in an adjustable RRFPR to get the fuel pressure up, no difference

Finally set out to determine what the variables were that made this cut occurr. It turned out that virtually anytime I went close to WOT, it would cut out like hitting a rev limit or boost cut.

I then had a vague recollection of a conversation I had at WCSS6 with reneisanceman(sp?) about swapping a spider manifold onto a motor with a 3 wire TPS. At the time, I wasn't sure what the big deal was, Everything bolted up and plugged right in....But then again it was WCSS :drunk:

It haunted me as I tried to fall asleep that night, I woke up early to hit the garage before work. Tested the TPS, it was adjusted perfectly, checked for any idle switch or WOT codes in the ECU, nothing. Then It occurs to me that I should check the wiring diagram to see which wire is idle and which is WOT.

Turns out, when you move the TPS form the standard intake TB to the spider TB, it basically reverses the IDLE and WOT signal wires. I cut the two and swaped them around, went for a drive and whammo, no random fuel cut!!!! :burnout: !!!!

What was happening was this, at idle, it would run rich or advanced timing (computer thinking WOT) would run normal a little of idle and up. Once I got close to WOT, the TPS sent the idle signal and bam, not enough fuel or retarded timing.

I'm still not sure what the ECU does exactly in relation to the signal from the TPS but I do know it doesn't like to have the signal reversed!!!!

garner

#33 stngllhm

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 12:36 PM

what year of soob did your computer come out of and what color where the wires you switched

this sounds like what my car is doing

#34 garner

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 12:53 PM

The motor and harness/ecu were from an 85. The 85 uses the three wire TPS and flapper style MAF. The spider motors use a 4 wire TPS and hot wire MAF. The wires on the 3 wire TPS are blue/white, black/someother color and green/someothercolor. I switched the Blue and green wires, these are the two at the ends of the connector. Hope that helps

garner

#35 Danbob99

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 01:33 PM

SWEET!!! thats awesome...i don't know that i would have ever figured that one out....

#36 WJM

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 02:38 PM

The motor and harness/ecu were from an 85. The 85 uses the three wire TPS and flapper style MAF. The spider motors use a 4 wire TPS and hot wire MAF. The wires on the 3 wire TPS are blue/white, black/someother color and green/someothercolor. I switched the Blue and green wires, these are the two at the ends of the connector. Hope that helps

garner


GARNER!!!! YOU ARE THA MAN! You jsut saved me from HOURS of headache and posting on here before the suby challenge! I was about tostart this conversion ALONG WITH the XT6 TB mod!

Cool cool!
INFO INFO INFO!!!!

#37 Subi81

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 05:35 PM

This should go in the manual, I would hate to see this info get swept under the rug.

#38 garner

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 05:36 PM

WJM,

What are you up to now? I don't know what the set up will be for you but definately pay attention to the TPS, I assummed plug ang play but found it to be more like plug and flail.

Can't wait to hear how the XT6 TB works out.

Glad others can learn from my mistakes :drunk:

garner

#39 WJM

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 06:39 PM

WJM,

What are you up to now?


Going to do the spyder conversion soon, and use an XT6 TB...as its LARGER by alot...and also install some Delta cams...the 260 profile. This will be the same time as the TWE install...header and DP!!!! :banana: :burnout:




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