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Darn crank bolt


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20 replies to this topic

#1 johnd911

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 09:56 PM

I've got a low mileage junk yard motor for my 93 legacy, there is no flywheel on it. CAN"T get that %%RFGW&W crank bolt loose. I've tried PB Blaster, sticking two bolts in the crank pulley hole for leveraging a pry bar while I try to loosen the darn thing. No luck with an air impact. the engine is out of the car . HELP....

#2 johnd911

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:12 PM

I've got a low mileage junk yard motor for my 93 legacy, there is no flywheel on it. CAN"T get that %%RFGW&W crank bolt loose. I've tried PB Blaster, sticking two bolts in the crank pulley hole for leveraging a pry bar while I try to loosen the darn thing. No luck with an air impact. the engine is out of the car . HELP....

\

since there's no flywheel on the spare motor, I'll go to harbor freight for the chain wrench- you guys really think it will hold that pulley with an old belt between the chain & pulley?

#3 coloradosubarules

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:14 PM

You could use a cutting torch or plasma cutter. I too wondered how I would go about taking that bolt out of a donor engine. I do not know what you are needing from the donor engine bt I imagine you could pop one of the heads off, stick something in the cylinder and re-attach the head so that when you turn the crank...it doesn't turn.


Hope this helps.

Greg

#4 johnd911

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:20 PM

I need the whole donor engine. It's the engine in the car thae exploded. I need to put on the idlers off the blown up engine, I put them in a few thousand miles ago. Also timing belt & water pump have to be put on the donor.

#5 NorthWet

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:22 PM

How about running a chain from a bellhousing bolthole, with bolt through chainlink, to crankshaft bolthole, with bolt through chainlink? (Put chain under tension between bolts, holds crank still.) Its a little backwards from how I do clutch/flywheel removal, but still should work.

#6 coloradosubarules

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:27 PM

If you put something inside the cylinder that is not so destructive (block of wood, something brass, something metal wrapped in something soft such as a towel) then you could use a breaker bar and impact socket (and someone or something to hold the engine down) to take that puppy right off. If it would be easy for you you could also use the chain method mentioned.

I'm sure you will figure it out. You are a smart person....you drive a Subaru!

#7 SevenSisters

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:29 PM

I believe Harbor Frt. still carries a "v" belt wench to hold the pully. Take a look.

#8 johnd911

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:35 PM

that engine is like a watermelon pit between your lips, as far as holding still on my concrete garage floor while trying to get that bolt off. Almost sent it flying down the driveway a couple times while applying leverage to a 3 foot water pipe. I gotta remove the bolt from the in-car engine also, now that one has red locktite holding it in (almost lost it on the highway once).

#9 coloradosubarules

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 10:44 PM

In-car engine: Impact socket, breaker bar and a large pipe to go over said breaker bar. Put the socket on the breaker bar and put that on the bolt, position the pipe with breaker bar under the drivers side of the vehicle near front of tire...crank over car in SMALL intervalls untill bolt is free. Be carefull! It works but is not the best way. There is another way to do it and it has something to do with a hole on your transmission but the way I said worked for me on more than one occasion.

First thing tommorow morning (or tonight if that works for you) go behine wal-mart and get a palet they are throwing away (not a blue chep palet) get it home and put the engine on it. Strap it down with ratchet straps and then call some buddys to come stand on the pallet. With the object in the cylinder and tons of anchorage.....that bolt is as good as off.

#10 canajun2eh

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 05:15 AM

You can thread a couple of the flywheel bolts into the flange at the back of the engine. Thread them in only partway. Use a pipe between the bolts as a lever to counter the action of the socket wrench at the front.

You'll have to extend the socket wrench at the front to give you more leverage. About 3 feet on each at the front and the back will do. Of course, you'll need someone to help you, to hold the back while you work on the front.

I wouldn't use a chain wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley, unless you protect its grooves with an old V-belt. Instead, I'd use a strap wrench. The action is identical to a chain wrench, except the chain is replaced with a rubber strap.

If you use a chain/strap wrench to hold the pulley, you'll still need to extend its handle as well as the handle of the socket wrench for more leverage. You'll still need a second person to hold one of the tools while you work the other.

#11 Skip

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 07:02 AM

pull a spark plug

push about a foot or so of
cotton cloths line into the hole
leaving the running end hang out.
Turn engine untill rope is compressed in cyl

Use your impact gun
making sure

1) gun is set to spin counter clockwise
the bolt is NOT left hand thread
2) gun is set to highest setting
3) air compressor is up to full pressure

Note: if you suspect Locktite - a small amount of heat from a propane torch
will soften the Locktite's hold.

Hope this helps

#12 johnd911

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 10:51 AM

2 questions, I hope the rear crank bolts won't ben or screw up the threads and if I put cloth in the cylinder and it gets compressed into a tight wad, will all of it come back out the deeply recessed spark plug hole.

#13 cookie

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 01:07 PM

1 .put a length of nylon cord down a pulg hole at the start of the compression stroke and bring it up toward TDC until it stops. Don't froget to leave soem cord sticking out of the hole.
2 Bring it to a truck or bus place with a 3/4 to 1 inch impact. Trust me this works.This is also one of the best ways.
3 Put the new fly wheel on first. I know you want to do everything on the front before you remove the engine, but you have to fit this sometime.

#14 NorthWet

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 01:40 PM

Regarding your questions about my method of using chain and bolts to imobilize flywheel-end of crank, as in all things you need to be careful and use common sense. Make sure the bolts are screwed in sufficiently (I would suggest to a depth at least twice the bolt diameter), and you may want to use "sacrificial bolts", ones that will never see use again for flywheel mounting. I make sure ot the former and don't usually bother with the latter, but I try to be careful about stresses and check over the bolts afterwards for marring/bends.

As far as sticking stuff into the cylinder, I have never liked that idea. It reminds me of the advice of never sticking anything into your ear that is sharper than your elbow. Regardless of what you are using, the pressures will be uneven, and you ARE sticking foreign objects into YOUR engineering marvel. I have seen the advice about a stick for several decades, think that potential to damage piston and sparkplug hole far outways any advantages in anything other than emergency situation. IMHO...

If you must stick somthing in the cylinder that FHI never intended, how about just using plain-ol' engine oil??? Pour a few ounces of oil into spark plug hole with piston coming up on compression stroke, screw in an old sparkplug, turn crank 'til hydrolock occurs. Afterwards, remove plug and drain using most any method your heart desires. I personally like cranking engine with plug out... pretty spray!!! LOL

When you are done, no scratches, dents, stress risers in piston crown, or debris in cylinder.

Another $.02 of mine...

#15 cookie

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 06:18 PM

but I have had to use it when doing a repair with few tools. The best and easiest way is a large impact which does not require holding anything.
I have also used the old bolt in flywheel holes with a steel bar I drilled to be a stop. I recall the chain method once too. All those mean you need to tie the engine down.

#16 coloradosubarules

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 08:30 PM

Do yall agree with my straping it to a pallet plan? Thats what I would do. I like the oil in the cylinder idea. I can't believe I didn't think of that. Besides...if you do that and it does not hold pressure, it is a bad ine and you shouldn't be installing it anyways.

#17 NorthWet

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 10:01 PM

Do yall agree with my straping it to a pallet plan? Thats what I would do.

Sounds like a good plan.

Wouldn't work for me, though. Couldn't find a couple people willing to help me by standing around! :D

Good luck.

#18 coloradosubarules

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 11:05 PM

The offer of food and beer usually makes my friends come running. Just put a TV in your garage and put some porn on it. when they are all fixated on the show you can position them how you need them. You won't have to worry about them going anywhere for a while. This might only work for my friends. It may not be a good idea to try it with yours...

When I had my garage in Colorado I had these two giant posters (subway size) of lesbians getting it on and whenever my friends would come over it seems I never got them to do anything that I asked them over for in the first place. they were all drawn to these posters. I bet if I wasn't around, the entire floor would be covered in baby batter.

Sorry if that wasn't PG. :burnout:

#19 NorthWet

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Posted 11 October 2004 - 02:08 PM

The offer of food and beer usually makes my friends come running. Just put a TV in your garage and put some porn on it. when they are all fixated on the show you can position them how you need them... :burnout:


Friends??? Asocial (ex-)computer ubernerd...

Garage??? If I am LUCKY, I get to work on crushed (1 1/2") rock. Not so lucky... well, have you ever tried to get a 6-ton floor jack to work in mud?

Beer??? My wife... yes, dear, my WONDERFUL wife of 25 years is Methodist.

PORN??? See above re: wife. We have every Disney (the REAL Evil Empire! :lol: ) movie ever made, but sadly...

Pat

#20 johnd911

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Posted 11 October 2004 - 08:19 PM

DID THEM BOTH. The engine in the car: big screwdriver stuck into the inspection tranny hole. The donor engine (wet watermelon pit) had to make a jig that fit into the crank pulley holes and bolted to a hole in the power steering pump bracket hole. Twisted the daylights out of the jig but was able to free it at the last minute. Gonna use a lot of red locktite (had a crank pulley almost fall off once!!!) weak design. My old engine had the pulley constantly loosening and chewing up the key way in the crank etc. Thankd for all the advice, just hope the donor motor (65k) will start and run tomorrow.... My original has 372,000 if the head gasket didn' t go, it would still be going strong. All due to diesel engine oil after 100,000k and synthetic up to 100,000.

#21 sasquatch

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Posted 11 October 2004 - 10:30 PM

I've got a low mileage junk yard motor for my 93 legacy, there is no flywheel on it. CAN"T get that %%RFGW&W crank bolt loose. I've tried PB Blaster, sticking two bolts in the crank pulley hole for leveraging a pry bar while I try to loosen the darn thing. No luck with an air impact. the engine is out of the car . HELP....


Since it's out of the car, just grind the head off...the bolt will slide right out then (worked for me)




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