johnd911

who has the NTK's?

been using the non foulers for over 60,000 miles with no problem till now, new set didn't help. Light NEVER goes off, gonna try to find the sensor online. Thanks

blow over a grand ? on a 300,000 mile car?

reason I think it may be the sensor ($100 gamble) is the code never disappears, the CEL is always on. None of this off again and back on stuff, just on all the time.

Dealer is useless, they want to put in Cats. It could be a leak possibly, my hunch is a gone rear sensor. Are there any sensor tests? resistane, etc. in the service manual? or is it just a replace and hope. If it ever get dry here in Buffalo I can do the leak looksee, but have nothing more than a floor jack.

best source for them? thanks

Cats have been replace 3 times already, just put in a cheap Knock sensor, and all of a suddent eh 420 code pops up and the antifoulers don't get rid of it anymore, coincidence? The fouler things work great, have been using them for years, just been replacing them everytime the code pops up.

291,000. Engine was rebuilt at 219,000 due to a disintegrated crank bearing. The antifoulers got rid of the 420 code every single time it appeared. The rust out, so I replace them everytime the code comes back. This car gets the best care because it is my personal and work car. Last sensor was put in 40,000 miles ago, Subaru part.

it's the 420 code for the rear sensor.

I drive 1000 miles a week and am sick of these CEL codes, I have used the plug antifouler fix for years with no problem, now it doesn't work anymore, about 70k on the current sensor. Is it the sensor that finally bit the dust or should I try the electronic fix, which I can't find anymore anywhere. I have a 2001 Outback Auto, Help, inspection due in a few months. If I have to replace the sensor, do I HAVE to get an OEM ($$) one. Thanks people.

Also: i took out the idcle control valve, it moved freely, even swapped it out with another one to no avail. Wires, plugs, filters etc have all been changed...

Item:93 legacy automatic. what was done: idle control valve was adjusted, throttle stop screws (both) have been adjusted, and throttle position sensor has been adjusted. Why: because when leaving idle with the ac or defroster on, 50% of the time it stumbles big time right off idle. With the ac and defroster off, it's fine or the stumble is so minimal that it's no problem. why was everything adjusted: because the mechanic didn't know better. Highway mileage is around 24-25 and it drives fine. Car has 200k on it with no other problems. So basically I have a rough idle and stumble off idle 50% of the time when the ac or defroster are on. And all these things that should never be adjusted have been. Anyone know where I can find info on how to properly adjust these things? I know the lower stop screw on the plenum should NEVER be touched etc. I'm assuming nothing is set to proper adjustments anymore. The error codes vary depending on what is fiddled with. Usually coded dealing with improper signals sent to the various screwed up components. No codes until all this fiddling took place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

any differences in the engine with the 2005 new model ? or is it the 2000-2004 with the new head gaskets. Also, didn't the 2.2's after 1997 loose some of their bulletproofness? I was thinking of maybe a 2.2 up till 1999, but can't comment on that version 2.2 seems the higher compression and interference design may affect it's long term life compared to the earlier 2.2's. remember, I try to get over 200k or 300k so little things matter. I use them for work driving.

I tell ya, the best legacies were the 92-95's. I won't go near a 95-2003 outback. Anyone know how these 2005-present are holding up under high mileage.? When i get a legacy, I usually put 200k on it after I get it. So I am used to the bullet proof nature of those 92-94's.

I'm a real good expert on 92-94 legacies, have done engine swaps, repairs etc. without ever having to see a mechanic. My 93 wagon has just hit 400k. I love the 2.2 engine but am having a hard time finding rust-free low mileage 93-95 wagons. I kow the 2.5's were crap headgaskets etc. Anyone know if the 2004 or later motors have eliminated the head gasket problems? How are the 2005 and later engines? Rather than get a low cost but very high mileage (with rust) 93-95 I may be interested in looking for a 2003 or later, but these 2.5's may not have the gasket problem fixed. I'd like to get an off lease 2004 or later and keep it for 250k, but am really leary. If I could find a 95-99 legacy wagon with moonroof (wife wants silver or white) from the south that would be great , but finding a low mileage one is tough. Any opinions greatly appreciated.

My 93 legacy wagon is reaching 400k, the original 2.2l head gasket went at 378k. I'm beginning to look for a replacement and remember reading about the infamous 2.5 head gasket problems, phase 1, phase 2. from what I understand the phase 2 engine doesn't have internal leaks etc. Can someone tell em what years to avoid (1995-1999 I think). I know that not all of them are bad, but I'm used to over 300k life before head gasket problems etc. When did the internal leaks end, was it 2000 before they got external leaks? I'd like to get an Outback, but am avoiding looking at 1995-1999 ones. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

help, My 93 Legacy automatic speedometer stopped working (cable driven) and I'm getting an engine error code of 33 (speed sensor). What do I do? is is a broken speedo cable? where is this sensor? can I fix or reolace it? thanks

ALSO: is the 2000 model year for the outback the year that external head gasket leaks took over? I'd rather look for a used external leaker than the internal leakers but don't know when this engineering design took over>

my 93 legacy blew the head gasket, sheesh....man, it just passed 378,000 miles too. I thought these last forever (snicker, snicker) ended up getting a 90 engine with 66k on it for $500 bucks at a junk yard. Swapped the injectors and wiring harness and am consistently getting 5 mpg. less than the 93, still can' t figure that out!

Question: my 93 legacy wagon is totally rust free (380,000 miles), my cousins 90 legacy wagon is a mass of ferric oxide with some paint on it. I am interested in a used 92 legacy wagon (same style front end as my 93). Which legacy will the 92 mimic? Is it made of the same galvanized stuff as my 93? thanks

will test sometime in the next week. I reset the ecu and the code hasn't come back in the last day. I 'm the guy who put the (1990-1991) 65k motor in a 93 legacy (378,000 now). Had the tranny fixed and still am getting 21 mpg on the highway and 15 mpg in the city (was getting up to 30 and 23 before engine swap) totally stumped. Plugs are not rich looking.

To josh or anyone else, my 93 legacy automatic is giving error code 42, just started now that the temp is below 35 degress. Car runs fine and the idle is at 800 or so. Do I wait for any symptoms and just keep driving? thanks

the 91 tb was adjusted because it had the high idle, the 93(unadjusted) tb on the 91 motor had the normal idle. Now, do I keep the adjusted 91 tb on the motor, or the older, more worn 93? Yeah, I'll get an o2 sensor and a temp sensor. I just hope a new o2 sensor doesn't give me the crappy mileage back. ALSO....... my 372k motor had 20/50 oil in the summer and 15/40 rotella in the winter. On this "new" broken in motor I think I'll go 5/30 winter and maybe 15/40 rotella in the summer. OR synthetic. THIS MAY BE THE CURE!!!!

mission Control: we have data coming in. Fact 1.) 4mpg better highway mileage with o2 sensor unplugged, confirmed on last 2 fill ups. Same route, same weather conditions. Fact 2.) 372k (from 93 motor) throttle body has 800 rpm warm idle on 65k 91 motor. 91 throttle body has 1100 rpm warm idle (before adjustment).

will do, I also noticed if I disconnect the o2 (to see if there is a difference)sensor it appears as if I'm getting better mileage, at least on the 2 tankfuls I've gone through since yesterday. I figure 372,000 on the original o2 sensor was pushing my luck.