johnd911

Well, now that I've calmed down, how do I fish out the seal if it's way back there? probably a hook bent onto the end of a coat hanger? And do I grease or oil the new seal? someone said not to put anything inside the lip, to me that's too dry.

it was the rear main and since it was put in a good inch farther back than it should have been (chilton manual sucks) can I just put a new on in over the bad one as long as it is flush with the housing, or do I have to get in deep somehow and fish the old one out. I'm assuming the one I put in too deep is not on a sealing surface of the crank (looked like a tight fit against the crank when I seated it ).

I put in a donor junk yard motor on my 93 legacy, so I figured I'd replace all the seals... I put in a ne wmain seal, the old seal was flush with the back of the engine housing, when I tapped the new seal in it seated about an inch behind where the old one was. Now once the engine was back in and stard , oils everywhere all over the torque convertor and flex plate etc. So now that the engine has to come out again I assume the darn seal just gets pushed in until the outer seal and the surrounding metal aref are flush??????

DID THEM BOTH. The engine in the car: big screwdriver stuck into the inspection tranny hole. The donor engine (wet watermelon pit) had to make a jig that fit into the crank pulley holes and bolted to a hole in the power steering pump bracket hole. Twisted the daylights out of the jig but was able to free it at the last minute. Gonna use a lot of red locktite (had a crank pulley almost fall off once!!!) weak design. My old engine had the pulley constantly loosening and chewing up the key way in the crank etc. Thankd for all the advice, just hope the donor motor (65k) will start and run tomorrow.... My original has 372,000 if the head gasket didn' t go, it would still be going strong. All due to diesel engine oil after 100,000k and synthetic up to 100,000.

2 questions, I hope the rear crank bolts won't ben or screw up the threads and if I put cloth in the cylinder and it gets compressed into a tight wad, will all of it come back out the deeply recessed spark plug hole.

that engine is like a watermelon pit between your lips, as far as holding still on my concrete garage floor while trying to get that bolt off. Almost sent it flying down the driveway a couple times while applying leverage to a 3 foot water pipe. I gotta remove the bolt from the in-car engine also, now that one has red locktite holding it in (almost lost it on the highway once).

I need the whole donor engine. It's the engine in the car thae exploded. I need to put on the idlers off the blown up engine, I put them in a few thousand miles ago. Also timing belt & water pump have to be put on the donor.

\ since there's no flywheel on the spare motor, I'll go to harbor freight for the chain wrench- you guys really think it will hold that pulley with an old belt between the chain & pulley?

I've got a low mileage junk yard motor for my 93 legacy, there is no flywheel on it. CAN"T get that %%RFGW&W crank bolt loose. I've tried PB Blaster, sticking two bolts in the crank pulley hole for leveraging a pry bar while I try to loosen the darn thing. No luck with an air impact. the engine is out of the car . HELP....

reset the ecu twice, now the only code is the 35 for the canister valve solenoid. Don't notice any driveability difference, so I assume this is not something that will strand me somewhere.

sorry, I did connect the required wires to clear the codesas in the instructions on your page, I just wasn't able to use that D mode.

i cleared them by connecting the black wires and driving till they flash etc. didn't do the d mode thing because I don't have whatever they need for the "flight test"

yup, did that. also the car sat in a repair shop getting the tranny rebuilt with the battery disconnected for 12 days straight. don't notice any difference in driveabilty

update, got the new knock sensor, it's making goog tight contact, STILL GETTING the darn 22 & 35 error codes, well there goes an easy 50 bucks including shipping........any ideas out there, I'm probably just going to ignore the codes. Can the purge valve be cleaned with carb cleaner or is ait an electrical valve?

situation: my 93 awd legacy wagon needs the approx. 24" connector pipe between the two catalytic converters. It has a 3 hole triangle flange on the front and a 2 hole oval flange on the rear, with a dog leg bend in the middle. I have not been able to find this pipe anywhere, the dealer says they don't stock them cause they're expensive and all the local parts stores show a front Y pipe that is longer than mine and that directly bolts to the long center pipe. Local exhaust places want 100 bucks to make one (my car has 364,000 on it- so I want to stay CHEAP since I need the muffler too). I have temporarily "patched the pipe but that won't last long, even the 2 biggee subaru web sites don't list this darn thing. Anyone have a used one with no holes??????

thanks, will do.

is it coincidence that both would act up at the same time? the car runs fine, with the check engine light popiping on and off a couple times a week. Can I just drive till it gets worse? will they get worse? thanks agiain. I'm looking at a tranny (automatic) rebuild this month, so $$$ is at a premium.

I followed Josh's error code retrieval procedure, reset the ecu, and am getting occasional check engine lights, error codes 22 and 35 keep showing up. One is a knock sensor code, another is some kind of cannister valve code. Now what? where are these guys and how expensive are they. Is on the result of another? Car runs fine, occasionally I get a shudder. The tranny seems to be "slipping" when engageing R or D if the car sits for a while. I figure this is gonna be a 1500 repair, at least. How do I fix the 22 and 35 codes. THANKS Car is a 93 awd auto legacy wagon.

same here, I'm still looking for an answer to my previous post on how to reset the air bag dash light also.

I figured i'd do the bulb thing, and then after the inspection try to figure the problem out. To go to the dealer will probably cost more than the value of the car (352,000 miles).

My 93 legacy dash air bag light has been on for the last 4 months. I'm worried that I may fail my NY state inspection due this month. Someone said thay may fail me because it's a safety thing. What do I check? and short of pulling the bulb, what can I try. Thanks

My 93 awd legacy wagon gas gauge reads empty 80% of the time now. Sometimes it shows the real leavel, most of the time it reads empty- no light lights up on the dash, even though I changed the dash bulbs. Where do I look?- the right sending unit or the left? all the external lines and connections seem fine. thanks

On my 93 Legacy, my check engine light comes on when I stary the car, only about 1 out of every 100 starts. If I immediately turn the engine off and restart, it doesn't light up. Any ideas?

use a q-tip and drench them real good with armor all every few months.

correct. Are those tabs the kind that break when you remove them, rather than "reuseable" tabs.