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CV Joint Boots
Posted 05 June 2001 - 09:36 PM
So they're goin to need to get replaced soon, to keep the dirt and crap out of them. Here's my dilemma. I am having surgery on my hand this thursday. So that will put an ixney on most mechanicing for a while. My uncle has offered to help me, however I've personally never changed CV boots myself. I'm sure I could do it, but one I don't have the cool tools to help the job go smoothly, and from what I've heard and read, you got to take the main bolt off the hub, pop the tie rod down and basically disassemble the whole front end to change the boots. Is this correct, or is it done differently?
Other option, I know they have those boots that are in half, and you install them and then snap the connectors or something like that. Anyone use them or have any experience with them? Are they crap, or will they do the job. At this point, I don't really care if I have to do the boots the right way in another 50k + miles because the snappo jobs didn't last. By that time I'll either have another car, or have more time to work on it.
Opinions? The two main things I need to work with are time, and the fact I'll not be able to do alot of the work myself, so the need to keep things relatively simple.
The sooner I know what I'm goin to do the better. Just for kicks and giggles, anyone know how much the subie dealer would charge to do this, I'm sure it's a freakin helluv alot of money
Posted 05 June 2001 - 10:19 PM
Dont drive the car much more if you want to reboot the axles. Getting any water in the boot will make the grease worthless and the axle junk.
I havent done axles on my Legacy yet but I have done them on the 80's models. You mentioned before that you have done struts so I am to base your front end skills from this.
Comment. The dealership might be a very good idea for this repair, if you have a good dealer. A good dealer tech will know this job better than almost all techs out there and usually the dealer techs like working on the early 90's legacy models.
While you dont need a terrible amount of fancy tools you do need some tools that arent in a typical tool kit.
The axle nut will require a punch and a large enough socket likely a 30,32 or 36mm but I cant remember which one it is.
Typically you drive the pin out of the inner joint then find a front end component that can get you enough freedom of movement to slide the bearing assembly and whatever is connected to it away from the trans enough to pull it off of the stub.
Then you can reboot the axles. You need a tool for this and I recommend dealer boots and boot clamps. The dealer sells a kit for doing the axles that includes a grease packet so you get the right amount of grease into the joint and boot area.
I wouldnt bother with the snap ring half boots. This will be debated.
Im also glad somebody is takin a gander under their car at the axles! Almost every car I have bought used has needed an axle or 2.
If you want you can delay this repair by doing nothing. If you suspect your axle grease has been contaminated the axle is junk anyway but driving on it for a while isnt likely to cause you any problems for quite a few miles. Then you could let the hand heal up and save up for new/reman axles and do it later.
Posted 05 June 2001 - 10:36 PM
1. Avoid the half boots.
2. If you want to replace the axles rather than just replace the boots, then there is no need to hurry into it as long as the axles aren't "clicking" yet in tight turns. Personally, I think if you're going to all the trouble to replace the boots (which requires removing the axles), you may as well replace the axles anyway.
In answer to your "dealer cost" question, Carter Subaru here in Seattle wants approx $790 parts and labor for the two front half shafts (and that's for remanufactured axles). It's obscene. Too bad you aren't in this area 'cuz SMART Subaru (not a dealer) could do it for you for several hundred less using genuine Subaru parts. Maybe you could find a good Subaru specialist in your area who isn't a dealer.
Some of the Subaru purists may disagree with me on this, but I also believe you can get a good job done by a reputable repair shop using aftermarket axles. If they are good axles and the job is done right (with a warranty), there's nothing wrong with shopping around.
Posted 05 June 2001 - 11:30 PM
Well I'm open to other suggestions or comments. I've gotta do some calling tomorrow, and maybe some runnin around. Of course it has to happen just now, when my finger is gettin operated on.... damn luck...hehe
Posted 05 June 2001 - 11:36 PM
Posted 06 June 2001 - 02:59 AM
Posted 06 June 2001 - 06:03 AM
I had the dealer do it on a '90 loyale-- cost about $300 per axle, but they replaced the entire assembly.
When the other side started to go I took a different approach. The joints were still good b/c the boot tear *just* started, so I went to an independent mechanic who charged $60 for boot replacement. I was totally impressed-- real boots (not split halves) sealed on nice and tight. If you can fix them/get them fixed before the joints die, it can save you some $$.
BTW if you and your uncle do decide to actually pull the axles and do a full replacement, be sure you keep track of which balls orient to which joint on the axle. They don't like to be interchanged.
Personally, if all else fails, I would use the split boots over just driving it as is, if nothing but a temporary patch to keep the dirt out. You've been very good to catch the problem before it destroys the CV joints.
(Too bad subaru didn't use VW's design, where the axles are mounted by 8 allen bolts per side-- made for nice easy axle work...)
Posted 06 June 2001 - 07:55 AM
Posted 06 June 2001 - 07:58 AM
I paied 500 dollars so Tires Plus could do my inner CV joint boot. We had to leave for Iowa that afternoon, so we droped it off at 7:00am. They quoted $130 for doing the boot. Well the got it all apart and said my bearings are shot... +$400 oh by the way we tend to brake the CV joints when doing this job so might as well get a new one... +$80
Personaly it sounds like changing an axle is a bitch of a job... so if the snap ons could be improved, I'm all for it.... Who knows when the other side will go, or I'll tear one off my '88 GL offroading
Posted 06 June 2001 - 12:25 PM
Posted 06 June 2001 - 04:30 PM
Other wise as Shawn said.
Posted 06 June 2001 - 05:53 PM
Whippet: You're probably right, but I'll just do the boots now, and wait for the turbo motor in the legacy GT hehe
Edit: Thanks for that link for that site about the CV Joints
Posted 07 June 2001 - 04:55 PM
Anything else is a waste of time and $$$. Labor is another story-
the axles on an early Legacy are very easy to change - I can do it in
about 10 minutes, vehicle on the rack of course. Recently, brand new,
aftermarket axles have become available, which I sell for $155.00.
Dealer ones run about $300.00. Anyone with a need, please reply.
Posted 07 June 2001 - 07:41 PM
If you have a solid day to do it, it's not too difficult. I just had to round up the tools (a punch, large socket, breaker bar). I ended up removing the top part of the swivel assembly instead of the ball joint.
The first time I had them done on my MX-6, it was $150/side.
Oddly enough the ones on our 95 Impreza have lasted 131K miles and still look okay.
Posted 10 June 2001 - 02:32 PM
Posted 12 June 2001 - 06:09 AM
Posted 12 June 2001 - 07:47 AM
Posted 12 June 2001 - 08:50 AM
Posted 12 June 2001 - 11:05 AM
Posted 12 June 2001 - 12:29 PM
Posted 06 November 2003 - 09:56 PM
I was pretty sure that the outer cv joint was ok
(passenger side, like yours) so i got the $60 rebuilt
axel and pulled the inside joint and boot off of it (had to
cut the boot bands *carefully*.) Did the minimum to get
the inner end of the axel free and pulled off the bad
joint, and slipped on the joint and boot from the rebuilt.
just be clean and reuse all the grease. Buy a couple of
aftermarket boot clamps or they say you can use hose
clamps if you can find them narrow enough.
Anyway, hold onto your core a while if you're not sure
of the condition of your outer joint. But at $60, it's not
to bad if you have to do it again soon.
Posted 07 November 2003 - 06:19 PM
Posted 07 November 2003 - 06:47 PM
I am helping a friend restore a 1972 Brabham Formula 3 car, and it has this type of axle. Seriously considering if I could install them on my Sube
Posted 08 November 2003 - 07:50 PM
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