What to look for ,1988 4wd auto turbo

[abcus]

I can buy a 1988 turbo 4wheel drive automatic wagon for 500 dollars. It needs a new power steering pump. I have never had a turbo before. What should I look for when I test drive it ? He says he put a new timing belt on it, but I would think there would be two belts. He claims it only has one belt. Is that true? Did this model have any weak points ?

Thanks,

abcus

[Vanislru]

Has 2 timing belts, look for blue smoke out the back under high rev's in neutral, whitish/biege gunk on the inside of the oil cap, and go and buy some radiator litmus test paper to see if hydrocarbons are getting into the coolant[blown or leaking head gasket]. Drive it hard too.

[abcus]

Thanks for the tips. I did not know about the litmus paper test.

Thanks,

abcus

[gunslinger]

Has 2 timing belts, look for blue smoke out the back under high rev's in neutral, whitish/biege gunk on the inside of the oil cap, and go and buy some radiator litmus test paper to see if hydrocarbons are getting into the coolant[blown or leaking head gasket]. Drive it hard too.

 

VANISLRU you mention the whitish blue residue under the oil cap.... every subie i own (82 & 86 EA81's/'86 EA82) has or has had whitish resie under the cap. maybe its just venting moisture from the motor?? they do see water.... im always checking to see if it gets worse - head gasket.

[Hank Roberts]

Me too -- just in the process of buying an old friend's 1988 GL 4wd Turbo.

 

Waiting on a replacement computer, since nothing else fixed the check engine light (and it'll have to be fixed in less than a year for its next smog check).

 

The car has had both front axles replaced -- one last week, one last year -- and the mechanic told me the right front wears out faster because it's driven ...um, harder? more directly? -- and looking at the history, this car has had front axles replaced before, too.

 

What else is there to look for?

 

What about improvements -- adding more cooling for example?

 

What are recommended oil grades (this is a used Japanese engine, supposedly under 60k at this point, that looked quite unworn going in).

 

Also -- the previous owner used "Sea Foam" for a rattle on cold startup.

 

I wonder if it gunked up his engine -- anyone know? His Check Engine light was on and being ignored, and he ended up with his PCV valve, the tube leading to it, and the channels in the engine block leading to that all gunked up completely by the time I got it checked. Pricey to take apart and clean out.

 

How about the air conditioning -- any easy take-apart for that? I'd bet the condenser is full of mold by now.