Frank B Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 Ok, some time ago the check engine light came on out of the blue, I checked the codes and 44 came up, knock sensor. I pulled the connector and it fell apart in my hands. So I broke the green plastic away from it and directly soldered the wire to the terminal, still has the code. Today i just installed a brand new knock sensor but this time I used a red butt connector crimped onto the wire and pushed onto the terminal on the sensor. I then applied some Goop glue covering the connection the waterproof it. Still had the code. Connected both the green and black connectors under the dash to clear the codes, still had the code. Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, still had the code. Now thew kicker, replaced the ECM with a known good one, and guess what, still had the code! I'm thinking that the signal from the knock sensor is easily effected by any change in the wire, or is there something else that could be causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 woops, 44 isn't knock sensor, thats the WGDS, and I have that one too! 22, and 44. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubuddy Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 what year and model is the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 89 gl-10, turbo, 5 speed, awd, power everything. I'm seriously thinking of trading it for a DL, power nothing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 frank: do you have the FSM chunks on your computer? they go through the function and performance of each individual little component of your engine management/fuel injection, and lay out testing procedures for each... it is GREAT reading material just to help you understand the function of the car better, and also a priceless resource when it comes to troubleshooting... unlike the carbureted cars, (tuning of which is more of an art,) tweaking/tuning/repairing the FI system really is a science, and its NOT that hard to check EVERYTHING for proper function. PM me your email address and i can send two large portions of the FSM in pdf format to you, they cover vehicle specs, cooling, FI/Engine, and wiring. not the complete FSM but its two large chunks that float around here, i downloaded them from someones website. they are both about five megabytes i believe, so make sure i can email that large an attachment. (<10meg for both) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 I have that same download somewhere, I remember using that info to test the tps a while back. I'll dig it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Frank, The connection to the sensor isn't sensitive as long as it just made well. By changing the connector on the end of the lead it won't hurt anything. Since you have installed a new sensor and still have a problem it appears that the wire lead between the sensor and the ECU is open. I would check that for a problem. My info for a '88 model shows the knock sensor is tied to pin 36 of the ECU. The connection also goes through one of the two large harness connectors near the battery area. The problem may be there. By just disconnecting and reconnecting these connectors it may solve the trouble. I wouldn't be frustrated by having the deluxe model. I think it is superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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