subarubuddy

i actually thought of that too. and i hope so...but the car was smoking pretty bad as soon as i got it running. before the exhaust got hot.

yeah . the gas is about a year old. i guess i'll have to check compression and see what fluids dissappear when i drive a while.

hi everyone. i have a 92 loyale which has been sitting for about a year while i tried to find time and parts to do a rear disc swap. the good news is its finally done. bad news, it was hard to get it running and when it finally started there was lots of white smoke. (it ran fine and didn't smoke when i parked it last year) i first thought head gaskets, but i'm not so sure. i let it run for at least a 1/2 hour, no signs of overheating. it also drives fine. runs pretty smoothly. there's no oil in the coolant. and no coolant in the oil. is there anything else it might be? i haven't done a compression check yet and unfortunately i'm about 150 miles away from the car. {edit} i forgot to mention: it smokes more at higher rpms. like when you rev the engine. doesn't seem to smoke more under load. smokes at idle too-just not as much.

sorry to exhume this thread out of it's grave, but i dug it up on a search and i still have a proportioning valve question: i have a 92 4WD loyal wagon and i'm converting to rear discs (from some 4WD EA-82 sedan). Being a loyale, my car came with a proportioning valve, right? EA82's always have one? but do i need a different one (specifically for discs) or do i just leave it alone? if the car should have one (or a different one), then i'd want to put it in. if it already has the right one, problem solved. the reason i ask is because the car is at my parents house 200 miles away, so i'd like to get the valve first before i go over there. thanks for helping out.

the re-curved disty won't work for SPFI because the computer controlls the advance. but everything else you mentioned sounds good.

i guess some people see them as ''parts cars'' if they won't pass inspection. so sometimes you'll see cars listed as parts cars just because of a cracked windshield or something like that.

i leave the covers off. its way easier to replace and check them, as other people mentioned. and also, i think if its okay for the accesory belts to run open, it should be okay for the timing belts as well.

i've never tried this but it may help: you could probably just dump out the water as much as possible and then put a hairdryer where the bulb goes and run it for a couple of minutes to dry them out.

does anyone know if the rear and front rotors are interchangable on 4WD models? my car is at my parents house 120 miles away and i'm gathering parts to do this upgrade and i have some extra front rotors. thanks for helping.. (edit) oh yeah, i'm talking about an EA82 car--92 loyale 4WD wagon 5-speed.

i thought all loyales (90-94) had power windows.

what year and model is the car?

i once tried to get blank plates.:-\ i gave the form to the woman at dmv, and she said "you checked off that you want vanity plates but it doesn't say anything in the box. do you want vanity plates or no?" i said, "yeah i know, that's what i want." "they have to have at least one character" she said. so i said, "ahhhh, just give me regular ones then." and she did. that was about 12 years ago, but i still always get regular old plates. vanity plates have gotten pretty expensive in NY i think too.

i would spend all the money repairing rust and making sure it NEVER rusted out again. other than that its fine the way it is.

i have a 1990 volkswagen fox wagon. they were originally designed in Brazil for air-cooled vw boxer motors and i think the earlier ones had them. the ones we got in the US have a 1.8 inline 4 mounted longitudinally--i think its basically the same motor as golfs and jettas of the time. i was wondering if anyone knows of anyone who has put a subaru motor into one. i'm thinking ea-81 or 82, or an ej series...or anything really, because i'm just curious...i'm not ready to make that conversion yet because its running fine right now, just like my 92 loyale which i'm not willing to take apart because it isn't being consumed by rust.... yet.(i'm in NY so its inevitable really)

say, what if you have a set-up to run lines for an oil cooler but you don't have the oil cooler, but you do have a radiator already in the car for an automatic. (the car is a 5-speed loyale) could you run the oil through the tranny cooler and expect it to work? (since the manual tranny doesn't need a cooler and the tranny cooler is just sitting there all unused and everything)

yup. i did it too. works fine.

you sure? i have the same problem, running hot on the highway but i thought if the two hoses ARE the same temp then it means the radiator isn't cooling...shouldn't the 'out' hose be cooler than the 'in' hose? that would indicate the radiator is doing its job and cooling the coolant before it goes back to the engine. i don't want to buy a new radiator if i don't need one....

i know this thread is from months ago, but i have the same deal where you start the car (cold) and the coolant slowly rises and overflows if you run it with no cap - takes about 30 seconds to a minute. i don't think its head gaskets because i'm not losing any coolant with the cap on, or any oil---i usually only have to add 1 quart between oil changes (3000-4000 miles). no smoke or anything and no overheating. although it does seem to run hot on the highway, but not quite in the red , and then go back down to normal--i'm thinking the tstat or clogged radiator on that one though. and i checked the compression today and this is what i got: 1--170. 2--175. 3--180. 4--175. seems good to me. oh yeah, its a 92 loyale 5speed i'm talking about here.

i think you don't need the covers. if the accessory belts don't need covers then why do the timing belts?? its WAY easier to change the belts without the covers and if you are worried about them, then change 'em at 50,000 miles instead of 60,000. they'll be fine.

yeah that's pretty likely since that lock (drivers door) gets used the most, but it could also be a poorly copied key...and combined with a worn lock=problems.

don't forget if all these jokers didn't beat up and get rid of subarus that could be easily fixed, we wouldn't be able to get good parts at the junkyard!

i don't remember exactly the cause but i believe it has something to do with the pcv system. there is a cure for it, but i don't remember what it is. i'm almost no help here at all i guess , but it's a common problem that can be fixed. so i guess you can do a search for it. sorry i couldn't be more helpful.

you're right.. i've been to a lot of demo derbys and fwd cars ALWAYS do better because the steering and drive wheels are the same ones. so the rear end of the car can be totally destroyed and the front wheels will still drag the back of the car around and steer it somewhat even when the back wheels won't move anymore. also most of the derbys have a tech inspection before-hand...if the rules say 'no 4wd' they'll know if you have it before they even see the car move (they'll check). if you remove the rear axles or driveshaft like others were saying you'll be fine. if you run it as RWD only it hurts your chances because you have to protect the front and rear. FWD you only really have to be careful to protect the front.

check the O-ring on the pipe that goes into the top left of the water pump. i had a leak there and replacing that O-ring fixed it. the pipe is connected to the lower radiator hose (on the drivers side). its got one bolt that holds it in place and it slides into the water pump. if the o-ring is deteriorated and gets disturbed it will leak---all i did to get the leak started was changing the hoses. the movement of doing that was enough to break the seal on the o-ring.

i don't know, my loyale was $400. 94K miles. needed new ball joints and nothing else so far! just oil change, belts and timing belts just to avoid any trouble though.