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rear end question
Posted 22 November 2003 - 11:52 AM
Posted 23 November 2003 - 12:03 AM
if you cant get ti off that way, pull the rear trailing arms, diff and axles all at once(or the whole suspension, but watch the fuel line, it must be pinched off, unless you want a full tank on the floor)
by having the whole thing out, it makes it easier to swing a 3 lb hammer. if you can get one with the one end bevelled, that would be better. rotate the axle every few whacks.
if you do get it off, put a good amount of anti-seize on the stubs. moisture gets in thru the insm and the splines rust up/
i would recommend getting the axles off the diff and/or hubs, and put anti-seize on them, for the next time you have to service the diff/axles
Posted 23 November 2003 - 12:28 AM
i just pulled the drivetrain from a 91 loyale wagon, rear axels a bit sticky.. didnt get em off till i dropped the moustache and diff
and picked up the medium hammer...
i have a quart can of never sieze that has to be 25 years old, guess it gets its fifteen minutes of fame tonight...
broke a few bolts off in the body, but didnt strip any, and didnt
have to cut or rattlehammer either woo hoo
red wagon will be d/r 4x by monday evening if all goes well...
there's a few diffs in the upull, rogers is cleaning out the rest of the subes currently
Posted 23 November 2003 - 01:12 AM
the axles were stuck on a little, but at least they came apart how i expeted them to, with my hammer technique.
sure, i could have swapped only the brakes, but now the wagon has a nice fat swaybar in back!
when i took the trailing arms out, i popped the axle pin off first, but the axle came away from the diff last.
when going back together, i would mount the shock bolt first. that would give me enough play to put the axle to the diff, install pin. then the rest goes together.
when i put my turbo motor together, i used a can of anti seize that was older than i was. a little pasty, but it works the same!
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