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Greases compatibility: attn electric_monk


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5 replies to this topic

#1 frag

frag

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Posted 04 January 2004 - 11:09 AM

Originally posted by electryc_monk


I would suggest that you also think about this like lego's with grease involved. your just removing a few items to swap out a single piece, wiping the area clean or a good power wash at the DIY carwash before swapping will minimize the crap that might get into the grease of the hub's bearing areas and then add some more to them and a little in the seal for good measure.... .



HI Monk, maybe you can help me with something the other board could not help me with. I'm replacing my fornt axles in few days, will replace the inner bearing grease seal at the same time and want to add some grease to keep the seal's lips lubricated.
The problem seems to be greases compatibility
http://www.ieee-kc.o...reasecompat.htm
Some greases can just liquefy if mixed together. Just want to know what grease to use to prevent that. I was planning in using synth grease...
Thanks in advance.

#2 electryc_monk

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Posted 04 January 2004 - 12:17 PM

[yawns and reaches for morning Hot Tea w/honey]

Okay your asking a very direct question. I shall do my best to be as direct as possible.

that *site* lists these greases (my thoughts here):
Aluminum Complex = (isn't this the "anti-seaze" for bolts?)

(the following are not realized by my sleepy brain as yet.)
Barium
Calcium
Calcium 12 Hydroxy
Calcium Complex

Clay = (Drawing a blank on this based design)

(The following three I would think are more for the chain stuff in bikes and motorcycles and rollerskates and skateboards)
Lithium
Lithium 12 Hydroxy
Lithium Complex

(again I'm drawing a blank)
Polyurea

As for what *I* have used and still do ..... laymans terms follow:
Axel grease AKA General purpose grease AKA packing grease
This is the paper/aluminum fold wrapped tubs of grease the size of a small planters peanut tub. Usually close to $1.99 at auto parts stores. Or Moly-B-dum grease in similar sized tub's.

Okamiichibahn's Brat (used to be Zap's?) has hubs that are filled with a special sauce. Marine drive unit grease.

This stuff I'm very interested in using on the wagon when I convert to the 5 bolt setup and put new seals and halfshafts in the wagon.

So.... hopefully you have been answered as good as possible from my still awakening state. But, I'm sure the likes of the Bratpatrol, Chef_tim, Skipper, and the rest of the Wiseman (and women) would jump to finish this info-clarification your hoping for.

I'll admit that I didn't go google for backup as I need to get ready for a few things in my ownbackyad.... ya know what I mean?

#3 MilesFox

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Posted 04 January 2004 - 02:20 PM

you can use the red type grease, labeled for foreign and domestic cars, wheel bearing grease

the axle bearings in the boots use a molybendim disulfide, moly grease

#4 frag

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Posted 04 January 2004 - 03:02 PM

Miles, the grease I'm planning to add on and behind the seal is synthetic and is red...

#5 frag

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Posted 04 January 2004 - 03:21 PM

Monk, thanks for the info and sorry to have pulled you from sleep faster than you would have liked...
I was'nt expecting such a detailed answer.
All I wanted to know is what kind of bearing grease would you add to the one already there with the least chance of catastrophic incompatibility? Would I be pushing my luck with synthetic grease?

#6 electryc_monk

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Posted 06 January 2004 - 11:06 AM

mixing synthetic with petroleum *grease* i would think would be survivable and safe, as mixing oil's is fine in the crank case.

Its just that the oils being a significantly thinner and different refinement would show its weakness faster I would think.

As for grease blending - I'd think it would be safe and fine.

If you had one type and the bearings are *in* and you want to wait till "springtime" to then pull the hub and clean and fully repack with synthetic grease as a "better safe then sorry feeling". that would give "us all" plenty of time to chew the cud on the limitations of a grease - be it the dino varieties and the synthetics or the blends of them in one bottle/can.

Now if I was in your shoes would "I" use the synth?

Sure. I'd just do a few "neat freak" preping steps first.

using one clean cloth rag first, then paper towels and q-tips

the rap would be twisted up in a "rat-tail fashion" pulled thru the hub. Then wipe the excess greasefrom the outer areas and then Q-tip the inside ring of the seal. "Now I'm not talking clean enough to eat off of. Just so that its got a nice reasonable clean area to start close to fresh with the new stuffcaoting the whoe area nicely.

there does that sound to excessive to anyone?

Oh and while I was at it, the hub would slide right onto the halfshaft and then I'd put the wachers and castle nut back on it (finger tight) then sit the hub on its ball-joint as the DOJ slid onto the tranny output shaft....that way ou don't do what I have done several times before (in an attempt to short cut) - get dirt and crud onto the fresh layer of grease in the lip of the seal and bear area.

sooooo hows that work? anyone else see error in my follies?




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