Leaderboard

When did they stop making simple Legacy Wagon ? I have a 2005 Legacy Wagon with about 200K miles on it , it's not getting younger ! Sort of looking around for a replacement ! When I bout it about 6 years ago, I thought when that time came I would simply buy a newer one, because this body style changed in 2010 with the new bigger Outback and they ONLY made Legacy sedans in the old body style like mine ? Well I having a hard time replacing my simple station wagon ! I can find GT's with that Turbo, that I want nothing to do with ! So ...... when did they stop making my simple 4 4 station wagon ?

COOL.. Let's hope it lasts a long time. That shows the difference in quality. The bad one was probably sending signals from vibrations instead of cylinder knocks.

New unit made all the difference! Lots of power now, no problems. Two different units on ebay: The OE unit: https://www.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetails?itemid=192926413511&transid=1781703698009&ul_noapp=true Bad unit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detonation-Knock-sensor-for-1997-1999-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-2-5L-KS96/353064994578?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

In your photo the wire is covered with plastic Wire Loom to protect the insulation on the wire from rubbing on anything. What happens is the Wire Loom and the insulation on the wire get hard from heat off the engine. When the wire is bent the insulation will crack in a circle around the wire. The insulation is hard and does not compress so the wire will stretch and get thinner and more prone to breaking. Wire Loom serves its purpose if it is not overheated. I have removed the intakes on a lot of 90s and half the loom under the intake is laying on the engine.

Pull it yourself yards and cut off what you need. You can use any connector with the right number of wires. Doesn’t have to be a quarter century old original if you call yards on car-part, it might help to call rust bucket areas where the doors probably aren’t worth much to begin with. A yard may not want to cut up a rust free door or panel.

That was what I feared from the beginning which makes it a real mechanic's job, but cel went out yesterday, so will keep monitoring it.

Overheating, not checking the oil; headgaskets. Not many lemons, but surely there are some.

Sorry I forgot to mention the manual is a large file, so if you are on dial up - it will take a while to down load ... P.S. - I've sent you a PM re wiring diagram Leorob ... Add : In the mean time try this one ( in two parts ) as taken from the Clymer A186 manual : You'll note there are No - repeat None, Nudda, Nill, Zero, Zilch, Zip, F'K all - Nope still no headlight relays for this model ... As to the Fusible links, if you follow their paths they do eventually find their way to lights - it just goes through a few other things like switches, regulators & the like first ... Cheers, Bantum ...