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Oof, the hits keep on coming. Between life happening and that stint where the forums were down - I hadn't had much time to update this, but today I took the time to get things moving a bit again. Long story short - I decided the simplest thing to do to solve the rubbing problem as it currently exists was to cut the tack welds and shift the whole subframe back about an inch, rather than doing a whole bunch of complex bodywork. My bodywork skills are definitely not my stronger suit, so I figured I'd better make things fit to what's already there as best I can. While this job was harder than I thought it was going to be (I had to cut out a larger section of the bed to get my cutting tools in there), the wheels now sit squarely (loosely) in the middle of the arches. To continue the spirit of solving a problem by creating new problems to solve, now I have to modify the original rear diff crossmember to make up for the distance the entire assembly has moved. Probably going to knock that out in the next couple days. Basically for that I'm going to cut some chunks out of the existing crossmember , then offset them with lengths of rectangular or square tubing of similar cross section. It shouldn't be too difficult because the stock part is basically a piece of straight U-channel with bushings mounted through it. No weird bends or offsets to be had so as long as I modify it so the threaded holes move directly rearword, it should be a pretty quick fix. Once that's all done it'll be a temporary modification of the stock lateral links to bring everything a little tighter in towards the frame, then I'll get started on fabricating the strut mounts in the bed, and probably remeasuring everything to see about finding an off-the-shelf set of adjustable lateral links and trailing arms that fit, and then another semi-permanent modification of the rear CV axles to get those back on. I'll likely need to revisit the wheel arches in some form or fashion, but I'm hoping I can get away with just some good ol' fender rolling. Time will tell.

3 hours start to finish engine trans diff driveshaft axles mirrors ecu tcu fuel pump radiator and condensor out. nothing els worth keeping. and thats including driving it out of the woods and cleanup time.

Hey all, just started doing rallycross events in Washington/Oregon with my stock 1988R RX. one event under my belt, & put the old girl through the paces! was on track to place 4th of 10 in the stock AWD class till i spun out in a corner transitioning from a field to asphalt, ended the day at 7th. Don't suppose there's anyone in here that goes to the NWRA events? I'm doin my best to keep the RX in the stock class for this year, tired old EA82t starts acting weird when it gets hot (190-205). next race is in Spokane in May, if you're there, stop by and say HI! i'll be camping at the track Fri & Sat nights.

well i started i opted to just unbolt the trans and pull em seperatly. stripping a car is so much quicker when you dont care about the car the parts are coming out of.

i do not have a lift im honestly not opposed to cutting the subframe and radiator support ither. as far as junk yards not many left. chuck and eddies is prety much the last pick and pull i know of. boyds in norwich will still give a good price on a stripped out car. there wont be much left in this one thats still good. the driveline was the only good part of the car.

Apparently the A1 Cardone distributors are not rebuilt to Ea81 Hitachi standards. I ordered a second one just for the heck of it and it performed the same way as the first. They seem to be mechanically sound, but the coil is not compatible. I pulled the coil out of my old distributor and replaced the one in their "rebuilt" one, I'm now getting good fire and it appears as though it's going to work fine. Buyer beware. Their part number is: 31-810 and Amazon and rockauto sell them as well as other outlets.

I used to rebuild these with bushings from a small machine shop. Definitely worth rebuilding, as the Hitachi electronics will last indefinitely. As opposed to the Mitsubishi distributors, usually found on 2wd models, which will wink out without warning and leave you walking... don't ask me how I know.