drewjohnson

If the repair was done by ANYONE OTHER than a Subie guy, then I would check the timing and/or belt install. I once broke down on the freeway after the car was running like crap. Just died, spark, but no go. I had recently had the t-belts changed while being stationed in the USMC, away from any good Subie shops. When I had it towed to a Subie dealership, the tech said the cam gear was on backwards! It had shreaded the belt on that side after about 500 miles. He had new belts on in 1/2 an hour and the mom and pop shop paid the bill. It was a 92 Loyale, 1.8. Man, I miss that car. After that, lesson learned. Only Subie people work on Subies well.

Check this site: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Av4YMY4kkfj/cgi-bin/autoinfo/autoinfo.asp?lp= It is what will fit a 93 Legacy WGN. Crutchfield has good info on fits for all cars. Later, Drew

Don't have any pick-n-pull yards around here that I know of. Anyone know of any good places to pick up used Subie parts online? Anyone with an extra PCS valve laying around??? Thanks, Drew

UPDATE: Searched and read all the posts on the PCS valve. Looks like it is a pretty common problem. I saw some differing opinions on whether/when to preplace it. Is this a problem that will leave your stranded? Input appreciated.... Original: Hi all! Finally got around to connecting those test ends by the ECU and finding why my CEL is on constantly. Got one code, 35, Purge Control Solenoid Valve. According to Haynes manual, it is either staying ON or OFF during operation. My problem is, I read through the emissions chapter, but didn't notice anything about this solenoid. Any clues, troubleshooting steps, easy fixes ( please be easy)?? I have disconnected the battery for 2 days after reading that this may clear stored codes. I have not followed the more in depth procedure listed on Legacy777's web site. History: Just picked up the 92 Legacy AWD, MT wagon. CEL was on and has stayed on since I bought it. The engine runs fine (as far as I can tell, not an expert by any means), and it even passed WI state emissions. The car has 178K miles, and the previos owner had just had some work completed (air filter, plugs, timing belts, accessory belts). The only work I've completed is 2 new front drive shafts and vaccuming it out! Thanks in advance for all your input! Drew

What would you need to solder to get that to work? It would be good to know since I have a 92 Legacy wagon. Just in case for future failure??

but my truck's blower resistor (I think I mispoke/typed earlier when I said solenoid) has been good for almost 9 months after replacement. To qualify that, it is NOT a Subaru. Just a thought.

...with my 98 Nissan Frontier pickup. The blower would only work on the highest setting. I tested, and found the blower solenoid to be bad. The part was $35 and I did the labor myself. I'm not sure how hard it is to get to on a Forester, but my truck was pretty easy. Only had to take out the glove box and remove a few screws.

... Very Sad :boohoo:

I will ensure wheels are chocked, jackstands are implemented, and safety standards followed. Thanks for the help, and I will report back with my results. Drew

Nope, doesn't rattle (at least since I wired up the rusted heat shields ). I tried the coasting thing, and no change in noise or vibration. The sound is most noticeable when: You sitting still, CLUTCH OUT Whine/Noise goes away immediately when CLUTCH IS IN I haven't got it on jack stands and listened from underneath. There were no major shaving in the fluid, only light coating on the plug magnet. I'm going to check to see if it has the "cabled" clutch system, and possible adjust that. Can I do that while it is running to see if the noise changes? Any harm?

I do agree that I can't rule anything out at this point. The main bearing theory does make a lot of sense. Is there a way to positivly confirm or rule this out? What are some standard testing procedures (other than taking it apart ). I appreciate all your responses, Drew

I was doing some quality reading on my throne this evening (Haynes manaual), and I saw that there are 2 types of clutching systems in the book. Cable & Hydraulic. Will the hydraulic system have the same adjustment (dumb question :eh: )? The manual didn't list an adjustment for it. Only to check the fluid. DUH. Thanks for the response, I will check to ensure I have the cable drive system. As a side note, I started my initial interior cleaning on the wagon tonight. I found 2 amps, wired up and my missing driver side sun visor under the passenger seat! They aren't mounted, just sitting there. What a joke. The wiring is horrible. No wonder the aftermarket Sony tape deck "pops" when you turn it off. Any idea where I could find a factory AM/FM unit? Thanks again for all the help!

The mis-adjustment ideas does sound logical to me. My next question is....How do you adjust the clutch? Do I want to give it more play, or go the other direction? Concerning the shavings in the fluid... I bought the car w/ 178K on it, so who knows how it was treated before. The residue was not heavy, nor great amounts. Just a light coating over the magnet portion of the drain plug. I had much worse on my old 86 GL wagon (2wd) when I decided not to change the fluid for 80K, and it got pretty low. As far as the rear end goes...??? I don't know. I haven't taken a look at it closely. Can you tell from the outside? Which one should I have in the car? Muchos Gracias for all the help!

It is a 92 L series, AWD, MT, with 178K miles. I don't know much about main bearings, but am willing to learn :cornfuzz:. I'm assuming that is a tranny drop to replace. Would this noise come and go when the clutch is depressed? It completely goes away when you depress the clutch pedal.

I just changed the gear oil this weekend (80w-90). Again it was making the noise before and after the change. I've checked the fluid a couple of times. Always on full. I was suprised to see that it only took 4 quarts instead of the perscribed 4.2. Thats no biggie. When I changed the fluid, there were some metal shavings on the magnetic plug, but not an abundance. As a side note, the clutch pedal operates well, but is very firm. I've not thought about or checked the clutch cable at all.

Hi everyone! Just want to start by saying thanks to SubyLuvr, ScoobySchmitty, WagonsOnly, Frag, Shawn, and all others who have been a big help in educating me on new Subes. Work completed last weekend: 2 remanned front shafts (Goodbye POPs) Oil Change (Mobil 5W-30 w/ cheapo Advance Auto Filter) Tranny Fluid change (80w-90) Diff fluid (80w-90) Vaccumed (really needed it) Interestig suprise, the car has 4-wheel disc brakes. I am happy . Now the problem. This was happening before the work, just forgot to mention it in my previous post. There is a whine that is very noticeable when sitting still and the clutch is OUT. When you depress the clutch pedal, it goes away. The car goes through all 5 gears with no problem, but there is some constant noise through the entire gear process. It doesn't clang, bang, bong, or slap, only a "high pitched" whine. Like I said, very noticeable. Any ideas or suggestions? I will thank everyone in advance. I plan on taking some pics this weekend, and will post. Cheers! Drew

I ended up going with the reman'ed shafts from Autozone. They, also, have a lifetime warranty. I also like the fact that they both came with new spindle nuts and tension pins. I ended up getting 80W-90 dino for the tranny and diff. Picked up a PVC valve and plugs also. QUESTION...since parking it in my garage, I have noticed a few drops of oil from the front of the engine. Is this normally the front crank seal? How easy is that to replace? Any suggestions. The engine is so dirty, it could also be the cam/valve seals just seeping and running to the front. Any ideas? Regardless, the guy at A-zone was cool, and gave me discount on everything he could. Saved me a few bucks. Thanks again, Drew

:D I can't believe it! I went to get tags for the wagon today, and figured I would run it through emissions right away. In WI, if you fail and provide $450 worth of receipts, they will waiver the car for 2 years, after you pay a fine. I assumed when it failed, I could at least count the receipts for the O2 sensor and shafts for this. IT PASSED! I checked the oil before I left, 1 1/2 quarts low. Put in some 10w30, and dropped in $3 worth of premium on the way. I could actually hear the CV shafts popping when the DMV guy drove the car in the stall! After it was over, I showed him the huge hole in the muffler, and he said he had never seen a car pass with a hole like that. He said it usually caused the readings to be way off, and the computer failed it automatically. He told me to hold onto the car, it may be posessed. Check the pic, I have no idea how to read the report, but am estatic (sp?) that it passed. Now I'm not replacing the muffler or 02 sensor! Sweet! Thanks again for everyone's help, Drew

They make these things the same? Only a different connector? I'm assuming 2-wire connector. If that is the case, then I will definitely get the standard and solder the connectors. They actually have the universal listed "in stock" at my local Autozone. Details appreciated, Drew

Started collecting for the almost-free beast today. Haven't picked up yet, but reman'ed shafts - Half Shafts $59.99 + 50.00 core, ea, (Autozone, actually in stock) - O2 sensor - ~$100 after shipping (Autozone online) - Muffler ~$100 + tax, installed, assuming I need no extra parts (Made an appointment with Midas, they wouldn't sell me just the muffler, I can't find one that cheap, and they will install. I just won't let them touch the rest of the car). I haven't taken a look at the codes yet, but I figured I'd rather have the o2 snensor and not need it, than need it and have to wait some days for it to get here. Do you guys know if that door switch is plugged at the door? Thanks again, Drew

Thanks for the input. Subluvr, do you know if that Midas muffler comes with the connecting tube, hangars and flange, or if it just the muffler. For $100, I agree, go new. I called the local parts store today, and they said they could order a Bosal for $80, but he didn't know if it were just the muffler (No welder here, need unit). Wagon, I will definietely try your trick for the sensor. I'm going to try to pull those codes tonight. I'll post my results here. Thanks again, Drew

Hi all, during my search for an 80's roo, I stumbled upon a 91 Legacy L Wagon, 178K, AWD, that was basically given to me. I was able to drive it home, no problems. The engine, manual tranny, brakes all seem good. Here is a short list of problems: -CV Joints bad (front, both, pop a lot during turns while accelerating) -Front passenger door dash open-door indicator light stays on (even when door shut) -3" round hole in muffler -CEL constantly on Again the car runs good, no miss, no smoke, etc (cruised it up to 70+ mph on the freeway for about half an hour yesterday). The previous owner just changed the timing belts, then decided not to keep it (should've changed water pump also, but didn't). I live in Milwaukee, so it will have to pass an emissions inspection after registration. I have read some posts on how to check and clear CEL codes, so I will take care of that to see if the light represents a past or current issue. My main questions are: 1. How hard is it - what special things do I need to know to change the front CV shafts (looking at reman'ed ones)? 2. Would muffler tape/patch work just to get it through emissions (assuming that everything else is OK)? 3. If the passenger door close/indicator switch is bad, can I short the circuit, just so it doesn't run the battery down? Thanks in advance for all the help and great knowledge/expertise! Drew