Bradsit

nipper, It sounds like you have a good case of logic going here. Yes, it is the rear passenger side cylinder that I suspect is creating the noise. I'm guessing that the only way to really find out if this is the case, is to pull the engine. If it does end up being a rod bearing, what are my possibilities of fixing it. Does it depend on damages suffered thus far, or are engines typically done at this point? Is this an extensive fix...if it is possible to fix? Thanks for the responses.

The car overheated multiple times before I was able to actually change them. However, I would pull over any time it started getting really hot, to try and avoid any permanant damage such as cracking the block. Since the head gasket change the car has performed relatively fine...except for the rattle noise which has continually gotten worse over the past few weeks.

I have held the throttle linkage and listened...and I do hear the sound. It's like a metallic rattle on the left side of the block, right after I let up on the throttle.

Hey all, I have a 97 OBW A/T... I've already been through the dreaded head gasket experience with this engine, and now I have a newly developing problem. After I got the head gasket job done I started noticing a rattle in my engine. Typically at start up it rattles for about 2-3 seconds and the RPMs jump up to about 3k, then it drops to a normal idle and sounds fine. Also, when I'm driving on the highway I will accelerate and upon releasing my foot from the pedal I will hear a quick 1-2 second rattle just like when I start it. I have also been burning oil at a rather slow rate (I am assuming it's burning as there is no sign of leaking anywhere) this says to me that my oil temp is way too high. Does this sound like a rod bearing issue to anyone? If so, is this problem fixable, or am I screwed? I would like to fix it ASAP if this is a possibility to avoid my engine seizing or completely failing. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

I recently purchased a '97 Outback wagon, and I must say it is a great car. I did have to deal with the head gasket issue, but if and when you run into that problem it is worth fixing. It is a lot of work, but afterwards you'll have a great car with a peace of mind because you have a refreshed engine.

Well, it looks like I had a vacumm leak due to an unconnected hose. Upon further inspection I found a hose dangeling from my pressure sensor silenoid, which connects to a t-piece by the throttle body. I reconnected it and the CEL has finally gone away. Thanks ferret!

Yeah, its all still stock....for now. To find the mud I just went up in the hills on some old logging trails. There's quite a few around Oregon so it's not that hard to find one that leads to somewhere where people off-road a lot.

Here is my '97 OBW after a day in the muddy hills.

I went through and double checked all of the vacuum hoses, and it looked like they were all hooked up. I recently had new head gasket, t-belt and water pump installed, is it possible that the mechanic either left something unhooked or replaced it in the wrong spot? Is there anything else worth checking besides the hoses being hooked up properly?

I am getting a CEL with a P0106 code: Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance Problem I have been getting this code for a week now, and I am becoming frustrated because I can't figure it out. I attempted to replace the Pressure sensor located on the passenger strut tower, but this has not solved the problem. I am experiencing a rough shift from first to second gear, and hesitated acceleration. If anyone has any idea where I should start looking please let me know.

Does anybody know where I can find a diagram of the tubing coming from the windshield washer reservoir? When I bought the car they were unconnected and I want to get them operable again, just not sure which tubes go where.

Thanks for the help all. I discovered that my problem was a really old spark plug in cyl. 1 causing the missfire. I replaced my plugs with NGK Platinums and I am no longer shuddering at idle. The air filter was pretty dirty as well so I threw a new one of those in. I also ran some seafoam through my pcv valve and in the tank and it seems to have calmed it down a bit. There is a new problem however, I just can't seem to escape the wrath of the CEL. I took it into autozone again, and it came up with P0106: manifold absolute pressure/ barometric pressure circuit range/ performance problem. I don't even know where to start with that one. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks again.

Hey all, Ever since I got my 97 outback wagon I've had nothing but bad luck. 1 week after I drove it off the lot the head gasket blew...with the help of this board I was able to come to the conclusion that that was the problem. I then took it back to the dealer and asked them to fix it, which they were kind enough to do. Unfortunately it was a small dealership with minimal resources and they took a whole month to finish my car. I just got it back this weekend with a new head gasket and t-belt, however there is now a new problem. As soon as I started the car I noticed a very rough idle, also the check engine light was on, but after dealing with the car lot for so long I decided I would just fix it myself. I took it to autozone where the diagnostic machine said it was a cylinder #1 missfire, and a failing camshaft position sensor. I installed a new sensor and the CEL turned off, but there is still a very rough idle, almost as if the car is about to stall sometimes. It seems like the timing is still way off, it also feels like the cylinder is still missfiring. I want this to go away, and I just want my car to run well. Does anybody have any suggestions what to do next?

Hey all, I'm finally getting my car back with new head gasket, t-belt and water pump. I just bought it from the dealer and had only driven it 2 weeks when the gasket blew, so luckily they are paying for it all. Now that the all the major work is finished I want to start running synthetic oil. The car has about 130k on it and I live in Eugene, Oregon where it gets mildly cold in winters and slightly warm in summers. I also like to go to the mountains a lot in winter so cold starts may be a consideration when I'm up there. So, my question is: does anybody have a suggested oil weight to use? I'm thinking 5 or 10w-30. Also, do the purolator filters need to be changed more often than the oil or on the same interval? Also does anyone know the fluid capacities for the tranny and diff.?

I have been reading the forum and finding a lot of issues similar to mine, having to deal with the dreaded head gasket. When I got home the other day my coolant had blown all over my engine from what looked like the air release hole on the radiator, and I had oil residue in my coolant overflow tank. Obviously the head gasket. I need to know if at this point my only option is to tow it to the mechanic, or can I baby it there? I'm hoping I don't have to eat the towing bill.