pablovfo

If you head down to B&R in Eugene they probably have what your looking for, as there are probably around 20 cars that may have what you are looking for. Just don't try to find a blower motor resister, as I pulled about 10 trying to find one that wasn't burnt out (it was my second from there, the first replacement lasted two years).

I have sprayed carb cleaner all over would be leaking compenents in search of a leak, with no change to the engine speed. Of course it was holding an idle correctly at the time and running fine at the moment. A mechanic told me last summer that the anti-deisel solenoid was designed to create a massive vacuum leak, so that was not something I came up with on my own. If the throttle bores were worn to the point of such shoddy performance some of the time, could it run OK any of the time? I think not, so there has to be some other explanation. Thanks for the comments, thus far.

This is an old post, but if you have not found the answer yet, it means inches (column) of mercury. It is a pressure measurement, in the same units that a barometer uses. (5 in Hg is approximately 2.5 psi).

I did add the state to city later. Since there are about 40 Springfields in the country, it is the least I can do. When starting cold, it will go into fast idle after one or two presses of the gas pedal, although it generally dies the first time and need to start it again. After warming up for a minute or so, it will generally hold an idle (when the outside temp is in the 30's or 40's). If I only let it run a fast idle for a few seconds, it will have a hard time. The vacuum leak idea makes sense, although it would be intermittant. The anti-diesel solonoid is there to create a massive vacuum leak when the key is shut off, so that the engine has no choice but to stop. Could it be operating correctly only when starting cold, but not other-wise and creating this problem? Has anyone replaced one of these without tearing the carb apart? I have no intention of rebuilding any part of this car, and one hour of shop time is 10% of the value so it is hard justifying a trip to a mechanic. Thanks.

Could this be a choke problem or something else? My carburated '86GL, manual trans with 165k has a problem that someone else must have experienced. When starting from cold, it will go into fast idle and it has some trouble when cold, but not like the problem it has when warm. When re-starting (when the engine is still warm), it will not hold an idle most of the time, and acts as though the anti-deisel solonoid is not working. Sometimes if I run the rpm's up then let up on the gas while moving several times, it will be fine and then hold an idle like it should. Otherwise not holding an idle makes it hard to drive in traffic. I don't know if it is a carter or hitachi, but hi-way and town driving are otherwise fine if I start cold and do not shut it off. Any ideas?