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Yeah, that's a great site. This is what he had to say about FRAM Tough Guard filters: <quote> Fram Tough Guard TG8A This filter has an improved filter element with more surface area (248 sqin), a heavy silicone anti-drainback valve with a good sealing surface, the same plastic pressure relief valve but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. In my opinion, the only real drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. <end quote> Tracy

First off: Anecdote: A short narrative story relating a personal experience (it doesn't have to be funny to be an anecdote). Second: Correlation ≠ causation (where ≠ means doesn't necessarly equal) . If you ONLY changed the filter and left the oil in there and the tick went away immediately, then that would certainly suggest a strong correlation to the FRAM filter, however, you didn't folllow protocol for positvely identifying the source of a problem because you tampered with more than one variable in the equation. Now, here's my little anecdote: When I bought my '87 GL wagon, no ticking (FRAM filter installed by previous owner). I changed the oil and the ticking started. I used 10W 30 and a FRAM. I added Seafoam drove it, flushed engine, changed oil and used 15W 40 and a FRAM... ticking continued. Added some MMO, drove it for a couple hundred miles. Ticking went away. I've since changed the oil again, ticking came back briefly then went away. Likely reason in my instance: The oil changes and flush moved some sludge around and briefly plugged a HLA. Driving with Seafoam/MMO and simply putting miles on the vehicle, worked it through. Currently: 10W 30 (Walmart brand), FRAM. No tick whatsoever upon start-up or during the day. I'm driving a minimum of 70 miles a day. I'm not defending FRAM filters. I'm simply contending that it is highly possible the TOD you experienced was solved for the same reasons mine was. I'm also not stating that TOD is always fixed so easily. Obviously, causes vary. Finally, I do believe FRAM oil filter filtering capacity, oil flow and durability are probably adequate for a GL wagon used under normal circumstances. I am aware there are better filters. The benefits are possibly 'blue sky' in a typical, older Subaru. Tracy

I understand the routing of a typical PCV system. I understand the supply side of it usually goes into the intake manifold at the base of the carb (bypassing the air filter). Often the return side is within the air box area. At any rate, I think we are simply miscommunicating as to what 'filtered' means. You'll note, there is no 'air' flowing through that system that didn't originally pass through the air filter on it's way to a combustion reaction (the source of the crankcase vapors)... however, if you remember my concern was the overall propensity for a large number of places unfiltered air could enter the combustion chambers with the design of the system using the filterless air box as a go-between for the carb opening and the plastic pipe leading to the cone filter. I overcomplicated the explanation of the my concerns. I should have simply said. "at the very least, the design needs to eliminate the stock airbox". Sorry to have hi-jacked this thread with the virtues of how O2 passes through a filter on its way into the engine and ends up as combustion vapors flowing through a PCV system. Tracy

While I do appreciate you sharing anecdotal evidence, remember, causation doesn't necessarily equal correlation. It is possible, the ticking went away because the sludge just worked its way through after the oil change and the filter was unrelated. The thing that perplexes me is that I thought HLAs operated under relatively low oil pressure conditions. I need to get my hands on some good engine schematics and study the system better. My understanding of the HLA system is admittedly fairly rudimentary. Tracy

The horn buttons on the steering wheel still worked fine ...and a handsome steering wheel it was!! In addition to the cool design of the steering wheel, I had laced a black leather cover on it. Why is it those types of steering wheel covers are no longer available? All I can find are slip-on style covers. Tracy

I installed a black aftermarket horn button to engage the starter on my '81 GL wagon when the key ignition switch started getting unreliable. The key still worked to turn the ignition on. It worked fine. I miss that car! Tracy

This thread has morphed a bit. If we want to continue this fine discussion we should probably either start a new thread or take it off-list. Or maybe we should just give it a rest until you aren't feeling so 'frenzied'. Sounds like you're a bit stressed about the GL-10. Hope it turns out okay. Tracy

I believe Helicoil recommends not using Loctite, however, I put over 100,000 miles on my Legacy with a helicoil that I used blue Loctite on. Tracy

Several years ago while go down a long, steep hill in my '68 Landcruiser, the carb sucked some oil past the PCV valve. It smoked for quite a few miles after that. After that incident, I decided to just vent the crankcase through a crankcase breather filter I bought designed for a pre-PCV era vehicle and I capped off the PCV intake on the manifold at the base of the carb. After that the vehicle ran better too because often the PCV valve would malfunction and allow the manifold pressure to be compromised. I probably won't do it to my '87 GL wagon as the PCV system seems to work better than it did on my Landcruiser. Tracy

Yeah, 'piece of junk' is a bit harsh. Although it is a fact, 1990 was a bad year for Legacy's with an auto trans. The folks at FHI under-engineered the transmission for the engine they mated it to. Auto trans problems on '90 Legacys are abundant. Also the air suspension was very problematic and EXPENSIVE to repair. The moon roof leaked, the ABS was junk, The braking system was way under-engineered. A trip down Teton pass towing my tiny tent trailer was always a treat. Also the AWD system was problematic and sloppy (on the Auto trans models). With 192,000 miles The headgasket finally blew so I'm junking the car because the transmission has 70,000 miles on a $1500 rebuild and it is getting clunky again. I don't trust it for the long haul. The car is not worth dumping any more money into because of the transmission. Also, I've beat up the body a bit and the car just isn't worth it to me with various other issues to attack a transmission transplant from a 5-speed. So, I cut bait and went back to a GL. All that said, I actually quite liked the car and I'd purchase another Legacy so long as it wasn't a '90 with an auto trans or adjustable air suspension. Tracy

Correct me if I'm wrong since I'm really stupid. A crankcase has a positive pressure due to the natural blow-by of an internal combustion engine. The blow-by comes from the combustion chamber. The O2 for the reaction ultimately originates in the dusty environment before it passes through the air filter, down the carb venturi and through the intake manifold. If the air filter is properly installed and the manifold doesn't have any leaks, how does unfiltered air enter the crankcase which if you'll remember, has a positive pressure? Respectfully, Tracy

Just trying to learn why I should stop saving money on Walmart FRAM filters and spend more money on a WIX filter. I only paid $700 for the car and it has 200,000 miles. I am planning on changing the oil regularly but is a more expensive filter just blue sky for this car? If there is a legitimate reason to switch to a more expensive filter, I'll do it. It's why I started this thread. I want to make this car last. I like the car. I can see I was right though... oil can be almost as touchy to some folks as religion is. Also, as to HLA noise... I get it from time to time on my Subaru. I haven't read a connection of HLA noise and a restrictive filter. If my FRAM filter IS contributing to the problem that's reason enough change. Maybe you're a little stressed. No worries, it's almost the weekend! Tracy

According to the author's opinion the Fram Toughgard's only drawback is being capped on each end with cardboard. Tracy

That sounds reasonable. Seems like some of the 'quality' built into a more expensive filter might be 'blue sky' for a commuter car that gets regular oil changes . A coworker's dad sells WIX, they appear to have a better bypass system for a clogged filter. I hope I change my oil sooner before I have that problem though. I'm enjoying the responses and learning which is why I come here. Tracy

So a filter design that restricts oil flow will increase the incidence of HLA tick? Interesting. I haven't heard that theory yet. I thought HLAs operated under a relatively low pressure. My oil pressure is around 45 with a FRAM. It looks like there are some good votes around here for WIX filters (their fail-safe technology is certainly better). I am wondering if the FRAM hate is completely justified. One of these days I need to cut a couple filters apart myself and take a look-see. Tracy

Patrick said: "I hate to be a downer, but all intakes introduce unfiltered air somewhere. Just check under the hood of any car." Explain. Tracy

....and that's as good a reason as any. A man's got to have a hobby. Lots of people wonder why I like to backpack (I live near Grand Teton National Park). To some it just seems like voluntary homelessness even if it's only for a relatively short time). Like I said before, HYOY (hike your own hike). Tracy

Darn Fred, that sucks... if the belts are still there and tight, then possibly some teeth stripped off. If the rotor DOES turn then check for spark (maybe coil died or wire came off). My coil wire was loose in my distributor and I had to flex the brass in the end to make it fit better. If the rotor spins and you are getting spark, then spray some starting fluid down the carb. Maybe your fuel pump just died. Tracy

Nearly 20 years ago while performing missionary service, I learned that often, folks don't like to discuss religion, politics or motor oil. Hopefully this group is a little more open to discussing at least the taboo topic of motor oil/filters. I noticed while perusing his site, Miles Fox isn't a fan of Fram filters. It got me to doing some Googling and I found this discussion: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cars/msg0520131113435.html Is there anyone else here that avoids Fram filters? How about the cheapie Walmart filters? Any die hard WIX/NAPA filter users? What about oil? I know some of you swear by Mobil 1. What about the other end of the spectrum (Walmart house brand oil in the 5 quart jug? Lately, I've been putting Walmart 15W40 with some MMO added in as I've been dealing with some occasional lifter noise caused by sludge in the HLAs. If I'm not adding MMO or Seafoam, I usually use Walmart 10W30. I used to use Castrol in all my vehicles but now they are all so old, I've gotten cheap. I do have Amsoil synthetic 80w in all the boxes (transmission, transfer case, front and rear differential) of my Landcruiser. It helped fuel economy and shifting in extreme cold. I've been thinking about putting it in the trans and rear diff of my GL wagon. Comments? Tracy

Found this interesting link on PB Blaster vs. WD 40 http://www.grandamregistry.com/new/lubricants.cfm Tracy

I haven't heard of the JB80 either sounds like good stuff. I got turned on to PB Blaster several years ago and I really like it. ...much better than WD 40. Tracy

My GL wagon sounds like garbage. I liked the sound of my Legacy but it didn't sound as good as that XT. Once I address some other issues I need to mess with it. Tracy

Cool. What kind of rack do you have? I made a mistake a few years back and sold my '88 GL wagon with the Thule rack and basket on it. Now I'm looking for a rack for my '87 but I don't want to spend a fortune on it. Tracy

...and I don't mean to come across like I'm an untactful a$$. Like I said earlier, this medium is inefficient at best in portraying tone so I tend to save myself the carpal tunnel syndrome and just be direct and to the point. Tracy

A stock 2.2 will pull close to 140 hp (whoopdee freakin' doo, my Dodge Decrepid runs circles around it... whoopdee freakin' doo about that too for that matter, it's a piece of junk I got for cheap and it manages to haul my family on our family trips which is all I bought it for.) If you've built up an EA to pull over 140 HP, I'm duly impressed! I'm also left saying... "why?"... but, as they say on backpacking discussion groups I frequent, "HYOH" (hike your own hike). I tend to be overly practical sometimes. It's just part of my nature. It's cool that you've managed to squeeze relatively high #'s out of an EA if that's your thing. As for myself, I didn't go back to a GL series Subaru because they have potential after much effort and $ to be fast. I like them for their utilitarian nature (like my slow, heavy, uncomfortable Landcruiser). If I wanted to go fast, I can think of better candidates for a build-up. Again, HYOH and I'm not dissing your Subaru Caleb. Cheers, Tracy