paulpicard
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Posts posted by paulpicard
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I don't want to hijack the post, but I've got a similar prob at the rear of my 84 wagon - suspected bad ground at the left brakelight as well as no gas gauge. But I can't identify the correct ground wire for either circuit from my Haynes b&w wiring diagrams. So I'll listen in to this one
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Getting back to the thread, when I rebuilt my Hitachi (84 wagon) I plugged one of the two vents on top of the carb in ignorance. Turned out to be some kind of (1) auxiliary bowl vent, or (2) an air bleed. What ever, plugging it caused big-time flooding, and once flooded, wouldn't start for days. There are actually 2 vent-type tubes and they both have very small orifices (.020" I think) The hoses connected to them each led to a vacuum-controlled round black thingy which contained the orifices and opened or closed according to vacuum or lack of. I vented both to atmosphere with a brass plug drilled to .040 in each hose. Solved the rich problem but now have a lean stumble except at full throttle. I still don't know which vent needs to be controlled which way,, and I lost one of the black plastic thingies anyway. Oh, by the way, a dishwasher is great for cleaning engine parts - did my Suzuki 850 that way. (Of course, there were no women living in the house at the time)
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JLDT, glad you got it sorted. Hope you labeled all the friggin hoses - I didn't and had no end of problems until I trial-and-errored my way to getting the last two hoses hooked up correctly. But I digress - if you haven't already changed your fuel filter(s) do so. I had a fuel starvation problem after doing my carb and the filter was packed full of crap!
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Thanks, people. TomRhere, are you trying to corner the Brat market?? Anyway,, I happen to have some 30 gauge galvanized flashing and I'll cut a shield as Tom described. And, I will check engine mounts as well. Plus I'd still appreciate any input on quality brand boots, thanks.
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Well, I ran a search but I couldn't get a specific answer to: Why does the right front cv boot keep tearing? More important - is there a h.d boot out there that anyone can give me a name/part #? This is a rust-bucket 84 wagon 5-speed 2wd. that I put a reman axle into a year ago and it has torn 2 boots since in less than 5000 miles of 90% highway use. Or should I just do the el cheapo split-boot thing every 6 months? Thanks up front, people.
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Thanks W. It does look like a press is needed so I guess I'll pull the strut/knuckle assy. and run it over to my local shop with the new bearings.
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Hi, all. Couldn't find any info about re & re'ing front wheel brgs on my 84 wagon. Since my Haynes manual says I'm not capable of doing that job (in other words, they don't know either) but I'll be the judge of that myself. Anyone got time to post details or how-to links? Thanks up front!!
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Thanks everyone. Both filters installed and problem solved. One look at the rear filter full of rust-colored sediment told the tale. I previously had to change a rusted-out and leaking filler pipe but of course ignored the filter that was hiding behind the splash shield. USMB does it again!! (For the record the Fram part ##s are G4167 and G4917 - about 6 bucks ea. Canadian)
Paul
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OK, I got the primary and secondary fuel filters and I'm still not clear as to the location of the "secondary" one. My Hanes makes no mention of one. They are both white nylon, the "secondary" having one inlet and one outlet. Anyone?
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The filter that is normally the culprit is the one
back by the fuel pump under the car.
This the main or "primary"
filter. It is the one that seldom gets changed
and is first in the line of defense against
dirt and therefore takes the biggest hit.
BTW
The one under the hood is called a
"Vapor Separator"
Hope this helps, most of us "carb types"
have BTDT
on this problem
Thanks folks. I ordered filters today and I was advised there are 2 filters, primary and secondary. Am I to assume the secondary refers to the "vapor separator" or should I follow the old rule that says "NEVER ASSUME!"? A word of advice would be welcome while I wait till the truck gets to Oliver on Monday with my parts. Cheers!!
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OK people, I need a silver bullet here. My 84 5-speed rustbucket (2wd) has decided it doesn't like full throttle anymore. 1st and 2nd are OK, but go WOT in 3rd or higher and it quits just after hitting 3000 RPM. The pause is momentary - about 3-5 seconds, then it lights up again but only for another 5-10 secs. before beginning the routine all over again. Momentary fuel starvation is my guess, I'm hoping one of you can say "Aha!!" and share your experience before I start digging. (The Hitachi has been rebuilt by me - successfully - last year so it's clean and tight) All comments gratefully accepted.
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Thanks to all of you. General Disorder, your tech article should be required reading for anyone who wants to work on CV axles!! Makes it look like a piece of cake. Cheers
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Shawn, thanks. No details on the retainer(s) location at this site. Anyone else ??
Heres a site I refer to sometimes.http://www.artsautomotive.com/axle_story.htm
I havent actually rebooted an axle before. I always seem to have used ones around or the one that I need to replace is a lifetime warranty axle.
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Hi,all, Went to replace a failed inner front boot on my (6 month old) reman axle (84 2wd DL wagon) and after getting the axle out I realized I don't know how to further disassemble the CV joints and can't see any obvious snap rings or other retainers in the murk of the old grease. Haynes is no help here, either. Anyone got a reference diagram or other info? Gotta get it rolling tomorrow, the rest of the fleet is in long(er) term storage awaiting $$$. Thanks to all, Paul
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Thanx people, especially edrach for the re&re info. Did the rt. side axle today and it went pretty much as described by ed. Was able to pry the axle thru the knuckle (afer removing the outer hub) with 2 screwdrivers + axle nut and used the nut + a set of spacers made from ABS pipe (Try 1/2, 1, &1 1/2 inch lengths, plus a large washer) to pull it thru the hub. The install tool would have worked great, I was lucky in that it wasn't too tight a fit thru the knuckle. NOW who has any clues as to why I still have a pretty scary shimmy/shake at 55 mph plus?? Worse under coast/decelerate, adding power seems to stabilize it. BTW the reman I used was supplied with a new axle nut, properly finished threads, and a new roll pin. Fenco #CV6584, $123.00 Canadian M.S.R.P at Lordco. (84 DL 5-sp. 2 WD rustbucket wagon)
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Thanks Shawn. Right re location - its a small canister about the size of the intermittent wiper controller and is bolted to the rt. rr. inner fender well and tied into the main harness at that point. Replacement is a last resort at the moment. Anyone else have ideas re:by-passing?
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I give up. Haynes manual no help here. Got a rusted out "stop light checker" effectively disconnecting the l/h brake light. Tried to by-pass the unit but when a jumper is connected to the r/h light wire the fuse pops. I have a good digital meter but I'm not sure of the circuits at this point and don't want to mess up further. Nor do I need another "checker" . (r/h light is ok as are all other rear light functions on both sides) Ideas??
EA82 front end questions
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Hi. My 84 2wd 5-speed rustwagon now has reman axles on both sides, plus a new driver-side ball joint. I have 2 questions. 1) still have a vibration starting at 65 mph regardless of wheel/tire choice, increases with more speed.. I swear it's an old-fashioned shimmy (wheels slamming side-to-side) as I can feel it in the brake pedal as well. (NOT warped rotors!) It'll lessen or change depending on steering angle. Can this be caused by bad wheel alignment? 2) I've read in this forum that caster-camber aren't adjustable on these cars, yet I can move the top of the strut around if I loosen the 2 nuts securing the top to the body. Surely this will affect caster-camber? (Nothing in the Haynes manual on this subject) All comments welcome, people:confused: