paulpicard

Via Canada Post, I bet! I paid $11.79 to ship a used computer mouse (170 grams) to my friend in the next town (130 kms) Yet I got a used dash clock last year from Indiana, sent to my PO Box, for $5 something. Same weight, same size package more or less. Go figure.

The thing to remember here is, if I'm building/repairing an airplane, I want absolute guarantees that the part has been manufactured AND inspected to insure it meets the required specifications. But since my car isn't likely to fall from the sky if a part fails, I can be a little more flexible in my standards. A part that won't hurt me or others by it's failure can arguably be a rational substitute for the costlier OEM item. Example: the knock sensor I was asking about in another post. Ten bucks vs. $100 is a huge difference, and the failure of the part won't kill anyone. Also, we need to be a little careful nowadays about referring to cheap stuff as "Chinese". Boeing buys sub-assemblies for the 787 and Cessna has a complete aircraft (model 162) built in China. You older guys (including me) might remember referring to "cheap Jap junk" but that was eons ago. In fact, Subaru actually advertises the fact that their car is "Built in Japan" as opposed to built in the US or Canada. Parts built in China may be "cheaper" but that doesn't necessarily mean they are lower quality.

Thanks again! Even with the ten bucks for shipping to Canada it's still way less than the local store.

I got prices around $100!!!!! for the knock sensor! Beck Arnley (BIG1580975)@ $96, or Borg-Warner (BWE-S8617) @ $116. I do get a decent discount from the local parts store but the part will still run around $55 or more. Is this out of line? (A sensor isn't the kind of item I'd buy used)

Great! Thank you for the Knock sensor 101 thread - covered all the possibilities, I think. As for the other 2 codes (P0106 and P1400), from your remarks, I believe it's prob. a connection issue. Saw and reworked a few of those in my 92 Loyale. Basically a free fix. Since the car was "free" and we have no emissions test here in the BC Southern Interior (yet), I think she's good to go until I get back over there and do the work.

Hi, again. I'm currently Soob-less, but a friend's daughter was given a '96 Legacy 4-dr auto, complete with CEL lit up, and since I have a scan tool I went over and had a look. I'm not familiar with EJ-22's, (just EA81-82) so I don't know where to look for the knock sensor (P0325), MAP or MAF sensor (P0106), nor whether or not to worry about the Soob-specific P1400 code. Car drives well, no rust!!! no bad noises, usual oily bottom, good trans and brakes. Seems to have been serviced regularly, including a 100,000 KM service that the prev. owner said was over 2 grand so I expect the TB/WP was probably part of that. (I erased/reset the codes.) Car now has 230,000 KMs. I would appreciate your comments on the codes and locations of the 2 sensors as well. Thanks

The numbers you need to know regarding the pugs are: Offset - difference between the stock 13's and the 15's Overall tire-wheel diameter - again the difference between the stock 185-70x13 and the 205-50x15 as mounted. I think the 205-50 will be close enough to the stock 185-70 in overall diameter to avoid clearance so the offset diff. might be the concern.

When I first got the 92, I had a belt break on the road 100 miles from home. $400 later it was fixed, at a reputable shop. 2 belts, an idler and a bearing changed on a tensioner (or vice-versa, I forget now) Parts were Beck-Arnley, maybe $100, rest was labour and taxes. That was in 2008. I have thought about leaving the covers off, but decided against it as I live in snow country as well. One thing the shop did at the time was use anti-seize on the cover screws. I have since changed out the other idler bearing, the cam oil seals, and the gaskets in the oil pump. Cover screws were easy.

PJ, welcome. Seems we have the same car (mine's a 92 wagon with a rad that just failed in time for winter), not to mention the same age:grin: I've had this one 3 years - it has 325000 klicks on it Still has good compression and power. Oil pan gasket weeps - I'll get to that sometime. Timing belt went out soon after I bought it so that's a worthwhile preventative maintenance thing. They are mostly easy to work on (I don't do wrenching where contortions are involved, either) I get the same rattle in the shifter - usually around a 3000 RPM cruise in 4th. I agree with loyale re the source of the rattle, but I think the fix involves some wrenching we don't want to do. Clutch should be easy to set up. No crawling underneath!!!. Get a Haynes or factory manual, and what the Haynes doesn't have the folks here will have.

2 points to remember here. First, read the CEL code off the ECU under the driver's dash. Second, find out what the code is telling you. Trust me on this one, and you'll find that these TBI EA82's are pretty simple to work with, once you make use of the CEL codes. That said, you might have found the prob. with the unsecured coil wire as has been said.

Well, the stopleak sealed the pinhole, but yesterday the rad sprung another leak, this time on the front side of the lower right corner. It seems to be at the tank seam, so I'll be ordering a new rad. Meanwhile, the coldstart sensor has failed since I did a compression test. Co-incidence, or somehow connected to the use of the "Irontite" stopleak stuff? It'll start but you need to treat it just like a carb with no choke for at least 2 minutes, then the c.e. light goes off and the i.a.c. starts working. Any comments on that? Could the Irontite have affected a sensor? Also, I've been quoted $220 for a new rad from a couple of different sources. Been a while since I've bought a rad. Any comments on the price?

OK, found a VERY small leak - lower right rear corner of the rad (a reman, according to the tag on it) just under the draincock. I needed a strong flashlight to see it - a shiny spot of paint in the middle of the usual gunk covering the lower reaches of an old Soob. I'll try some (recommended) stopleak in there for now, while I scrounge another good rad. If you have a caution regarding stopleak stuff and EFI sensors, let me know, please! Anyone else with the same problem, do use a strong light around the bottom of the rad if you can't find any other sources.

Thanks guys. Heater is fine - no leaks in cab, no coolant smell, dry carpet. I'll pull the spare and take a close look at the hoses and other lines that run over top of the block. Also, I have and use a block heater, but only on those mornings when it's colder than -10C then only for a couple of hours. I wonder if that could be a source of leakage - never see it driving down the road. Do those things tend to loosen up over time?

Well, I am really puzzled by this one. My EA82 (5-sp 4wd.) wagon has run flawlessly since I got it 3 years ago, and did the usual t-belt, EFI, ignition, t-stat, hoses etc. servicing. It's now at 320,000 KM. Still has good compression, and no external coolant leaks. Yet suddenly last week it used up a gallon of coolant in 40 highway KM (level road, 3000 rpm cruise), and another gallon when we decided to head back home. Thankfully all the gauges still work, or I might have missed the overheat signs. I left it sit for 3 days (on fresh snow) looking for green spots - none. Today I pulled plugs - all look fine and identical.Checked oil level, normal, no evidence of coolant in oil. Checked for excess play on waterpump shaft - no play. Refilled rad, ran it till t-stat opened, watched for excess white exhaust (none) and drove it around for a half-hour, then parked and checked for new leaks - none. I do have compression testers, but don't have a pressure test rig, so before I head for the local shop does anyone have any ideas on this?

Nug those were the things I last checked couple weeks ago - they were all good, although the drum and backing plate were pretty rusty.