THE ROSS

will do, i think i'll spend some time on it tomorrow...I'll just start checking out the entire ignition and fuel system. I'll definitly post if I can figure it out.

It's a 92 Loyale...sorry, I always forget to put that in.... how much for a new fuel pump if the filter change doesn't do it?

So I was driving over a mountain pass and when I downshifted to 4th gear with the peddle to the floor and the rpm's where at about 4500 or so. Everything was normal for about 30 seconds and then it felt like the fuel was being cut or something...if I let off the throttle about 50% it ran normal, but as soon as I went to full throttle again it did it repeatedly. I had just filled it up with chevron super (92 oct) 50 miles ago and had put in some injector cleaner... could this be the cause? Or could it just be a dirty fuel filter? The reason I had put in the cleaner is because sometimes before it would just bogg down if I was at full throttle so it seemed like the injectors were clogged. (I just bought it a few weeks ago and it was sitting for over a year and a half.)

Are you wanting help fixing the push starting issue or the idling issue? Does the car not idle only when in neutral? Or does it just not idle period? And as the other have said, the more info you can give us the better we can help you.

Right, that's why I'm thinking of making some kind of "T" fitting with the same inside diameter so that it wouldn't need calibration...

I own a 92 Loyale and I've searched and come up with nothing on the subject so I'll just ask... Has anyone tried to modify the MAF on their intake? The intake system on these things are the most restrictive I have ever seen! The MAF has like a inch and a half opening! I was thinking about taking the sensor out and placing it in a pipe. But would I have to simulate the smaller upper hole that the hotwire sits in? If I do I thought I could maybe make some kind of "T" fitting that is the same diameter as the small hole in the MAF for the hotwire to sit in... Anyone have any thoughts or insight on this? Or has anyone else done this using a different method? Thanks for the help

awesome, thanks guys thats exactly what I needed!

I know this might sound like a bit of a noob question but I haven't gotten a haynes manual yet and I couldn't find anything in the search function... my question is do you have to remove the entire door panel to get to the front speakers? Or is there a much easier way of doing it? Thanks for the help.

I know this isn't exactly answering your question but why don't you just drill and tap it yourself in the same spot as your old tranny? Also, I am looking at doing the same conversion and was wondering what exactly you had to do to make it work...does it just swap right in? Thanks

my needle only rises up to 1/4 of the way...don't know if that is normal or not, I just bought it a few days ago.

So I'm looking at a 92 loyale that is in pretty decent shape with 106k miles. Well it's got this squeeking on the passenger side wheel area... It's a consistant noise that happens every time the wheel completes a full rotation. At first I thought it was probably just the brakes but when I applied pressure to the brakes the noise didn't change one bit. Does anyone know what else this could be? It's at a dealership that is a ways away so I can't do too much research on the car itself... Thanks for the ideas.