myossfeece
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Posts posted by myossfeece
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yeah the turbo pistons are a 7.7 to 1 compression whereas the carbed pistons are 8.5 to 1 compression. This will help out on low end torque, before the turbo gets goin fast enough to pump boost. That is where most of my advantage will be. running stock boost with the carbed block, I think it will be just within the limits, without preignition or detonation as a side effect. I think it will be alright but will keep everyone posted on the progress and any set-backs. Hopefully there aren't any though.
If any one has any experience, tips of things to watchout for or keep an eye on then please feel free to let me know. thanks all.
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yeah it does sound like the secondary is causeung the problem, but you already knew that. I haven't much experience with tearing down and rebuilding carbs, but my spfi was acting the same way when the pcv dooker came off the intake and was letting air get past the maf sensor. Once I figured that out and hooked it up I haven't had any trouble since.
It could be serviced without removing it from the intake from what I can tell, but removing it would make for easier servicing. Good luck with it. sorry I couldn't be of more help, but the only things I know for certain are what I have done myself.
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yeah I could probably get some studs for kinda cheap. shouldn't have any top end issues that I can tell, I have never ran the rx low on oil, but yosh did a few times. I have never ran the rx hot either. I'm hopin it goes togther without a problem. I don't see any thing that may cause a problem with it.
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I have noticed that in my 87 RX it too has the fuse holder in it but nothing seems to happen when a fuse is put in, no dash lights saying 2wd or fwd. It doesn't seem to make a difference in my tranny.
Yosh has a 90 legacy sedan that has a fuse holder and when the fuse is inserted sure enough a fwd light comes on the dash to let you know that awd is disengaged.
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Yeah yeah it's out of commision. 138,000 mile turbo motor spun a rod bearing. If I'm not mistaken I believe that low-end torque (luggin the motor) will spin bearings, not so much high rpm.
N E Ways I have a carbeurated motor with the intake and gummed up carb. removed. Next step is yanking the heads off it and gettin my turbo top end gasket set. I will put the turbo heads and intake on this block, after a thourough tear-down and rebuild. will port the heads out a bit to allow for quicker turbo response and less turbo lag. Will grab a new clutch plate as the current clutch has been smoked twice by 1abaja. Damit yosh! j/j! Hopefully the motor build will be worthwhile i the long run.
I got the carbbed motor from ro-neece after he tryed to take the st. joe river and sucked some water up into the intake, and stalled it out. We then left it in the river over night and pulled the car out with my car which was 88 gl sedan in volcom_don signature. We got the motor started and it poured out with white smoke when he would get on it. he changed the oil in it and it straightened right out. Then the wagon was forced into being parted and junked. I then rescued the motor and the x-pipe exhaust. It has been setting in the carbola for about a year with motor oil in it and new Ngk plugs in it.
Water in the crankcase won't hurt the rodbearings. It's coolant in the crankcase that tears everything up. I think the motor will hold up just fine. will post more as the project comes along
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yeah it sounds like normal activity there. when you apply the brakes, the idle will drop slightly beacuse the vacuum booster kicks in and acts kinda like a slight vacuum leak. At least to the motor, because it's trying to replenish the vacuum lost from the booster on the brakes. my 2 sense n e way. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
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whoa................
did you say party where?WHen?im down and u know this man............anyways where could we have it? prolly not at the carbola. maybe you could bring the 03 legacy? and let me drive it?
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we can use the carbola as the staging area. Everyone can meet up there. Maybe we can get some more t-shirts yosh, and fox can maybe judge or host a best pipes comp., roughest soob, most modified, etc. That will be some fun. we can get together with those interested and par-take in an "annual subaru rev-ving!" Comprende? Essay? yeah. Bring some cameras for pics and what-not to be posted on the board after the meet has taken place.
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yeah. my radiator doesn't leak but it has a crack where you put the top hoes on. It's plastic right there and has a crack in it. it used to leak but I put two clamps on it. That fixed the leak but now when it warms up it will steam through the crack and leaks pressure causeing the temperature to rise to uncomfortabley warm. I am deffinately interested in a radiator. want to sell or trade let me know. I have already done the t-stat swap, now I just need a radiator to hold some pressure.
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Hey now, you know I'm down. My RX has taken a dook and is out of commision for about a week or two. Spun a rod bearing. Will have my carb.ed block with turbo top-end installed by then. That car will be phat after that. the bottom end torque of a carbureated motor, with the follow-through of a turbo. That, plus the bid wheels will make for some good baja'n. Must fix radiator, so it will hold pressure.
But I am definately down for the baja'n, the meet, and hearin about other mods. It's all godd and if Victor cooks it will be "Some mighty fine pickin' and a diggin!" Some good eatin.
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when replacing the seals on the fourdoor, and the oil pump we had used the starter to break the bolt lose twice and it worked real good both times. Once done the bolt would occassionaly work its way lose and throw the crank pulley out of alignment knockin off my belts, but luckily the bolt stayed in the pulley and didn;t fly off in the road. This happened to me about twice and then finally after putting the car in lo-range fifth gera with the e-brake set I was finally able to torque it down and haven't had any trouble since then. good luck with it.
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Milesfox had the same trouble with his lifted trashwagon. He had a 6 inch body lift on front and rear and it handled dooky. My opinion was he lost his "SUBARU" low center of gravity.
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be sure that you have the parking break released when turning the caliper piston in.
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I've used flex pipe before and would only recommend it in the course of an emergency as they don't last long.
Speaking of cherry bomb exhaust the exhaust on my RX 3- door is rusted in half abut an inch behind the muffler. My next investment for it will be the cherry bomb and some window tint.
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A friend of mine 1abaja (josh) has an impreza drivers side front axle pops a little bit and didn't start untill replacing the passenger side axle. The boot and everything is still in tact and looks like it's in mint shape but still pops. It could very well be the axle even if the boot is fine. I would suggest a thorough check of axle nut torque like milesfox suggests. I beleive I was with him during a "cv axle adventure"
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sounds like that car is alot of fun to drive. If it has a limited-slip-differential, that puts a whole new SPIN on handling, most obvious in the snow and mud, or other slick conditions. Lots of fun. yeah un huh.
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my rx does the same thing occasionally. after it warms for a few and the car idles down, it will fall down to 250 rpm and idles slugishly. Mimics the effect of a misfire, and all at once it will correct itself and idle back running smooth and all. I can tell when it's gonna hesitate because it will idle so low, but has never stalled because of it. I swapped maf sensor and got no difference in performance, it still occasionally stumbles. Not any more or less. godd luck with a solution.
My opinion: It's A Turbo Thing!!!!
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You will only need one donor axle for the stub end. remove one axle put the stub in it's place. You can leave the other axle in tact and depending on the year 87 and up the car will behave like a positrac rear-drive. much fun. Not sure if 86 had an lsd or not.! I don't think they had a diff lock. If you do have the diff lock and one axle is removed from FT4WD transmission then you must drive around with the diff locked to achieve the effect of posi rear-drive.
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I have been running my sedan with custom exhaust and no o2 sensor for about a year now. never gave me any trouble. The ecm light stays on now but other thatn that no problems at all
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probably wouldn't hurt motor at all. whatever works for ya.
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Ha Ha Ha I can relate to the faulty heater. but snow is still fun, just harder to drive in when numb
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You can get an o2 sensor at any auto parts dealer. Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc. watch out though I got one a Napa for and 88 spfi ea82 and it was like 87.00$ Crazy Expensive. I decided shortly afterthat that it was not worth it. Then I got my aftermarket "off-raod" exhaust with no cats, and no place for o2 sensor.
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My opinion would be an interstate. never gave me any trouble. I run 20w50 motor oil. with synthetic oil the first number its how thick the oil is cold and the second number show the behavior of oil when warmed up. Currently my ea82t will crank a little slow in the morning, when the oil is 20w and once warmed up to operating temp the oil is more like a fifty weight, it cranks over just fine.
About a year ago I had a Mazda 323 sedan, that burned oil like a mo fo. I started running chainsaw bar oil 90w to slow oil consumption down, but once snowfall hit I needed a jump start every morning and it cranked slow like it was turning jelly over in the motor. But once warmed up it would start all day untill next mornin when I needed another jump.
Currently I have delco but soon as she fails INTERSTATE will take over a soob motor and bumpin toons.
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I would suggest taking your gauges cluster apart and hosing it down with wd40. just kidding. So the only time it becomes and issue is when it's really cold? At least it fixes itself. maybe you could mount an aftermarket tach, but it's probably not necessary. Wish I could be of more help. good luck
vacuum ?, please help
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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the turbo is only used under acceleration. In my RX The boost light only came on if I would floor it with the clutch depressed, and it would only flicker on for a second while the tach. was at about 5,000 and would go off at about 5,700-6,00 rpm. but once I would put it in gear and then get on it with a torque load on the motor the light would come on about 2,500 and wouldn't pump full boost till about 3,000 to 3,500. That was when you would feel it start to pull your head back to the head rest. Upon reaching cruising speed the turbo would fade out and not pump any more boost until I attempted to accelerate or if I started traveling up-hill and the motor had a higher torque load on it.
If it the turbo isn't isn't pumping any boost when you rev it to 2500 or so with the clutch depressed I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Will check my ride out tomorrow and see where the phantom vacuum line goes and post it for you. Enjoy the turbo while you have it. They are much fun.!.!