dj72

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Here come the pics, the car is a little dirty due to the snow melting buts its the best i can do till it dries up around here.

Also by the way about the idle, yes it doesn't idle very good it goes from 1000rpm- 1300rpm.

Yes the Tazzo is lighted up and yes i do put everything in pounds. I will go to the weigh scale and get the exact weight of the car with me in it, then i will do some testing as soon as i get ahold of my buddy with the Tazzo.

Would pics from the Tazzo while in my car do until i get it redynoed at a shop that i know and trust? By the way i am running a front mount intercooler plus the oil cooler, and i am running 17psi with 103 octane vp racing unleaded fuel.

If you even knew anything at all about motors and building them you would know that heads and cams are the most important thing for increasing hp in a motor. The heads have been ported polished and shaved, and you know about the cams and other stuff, so if you don't know what your talking about don't post anymore.

By the way i do have moded injectors out of a late 80's 5.7 camaro, a fuel pump from a 95 twin turbo supra moded a little to work in my car, the stock turbo has been polished for cleaner flow, By the way your still not reading everything that has been done to the motor, eg. front mount intercooler, front mount oil cooler, 160 degree therm, and i do have a new rad coming soon to get it even cooler. Got a question for ya how many actual engines have you built? 1. I build at least 8 a year, not jap though this is my first, and i started building my own engines many years ago. I just moved to this city so the shop where they did the dyno messed up and gave me the wrong one, but i'm going back to my home city this spring so i'll take the car to a shop that i have been dealing with for years. When i get the proper dyno you will see that i am right. If you don't know what a Tazzo is look it up and you will see that NHRA, road and track, hot rod and many more have used them to test cars so they have to be somewhat accurate.

I'll be taking my car to a different shop over in the next city because i think the thing is wrong by a bit and i just lost $50 bucks for a crappy dyno. My one buddy has a gadget called a Tazzo something like a gtech pro, and we punched in the cars weight and added ours and it showed 246hp to the wheels under load , we tried it a few times and each time it was within a few hp and these things are supposed to be accurate. So until the car goes to a diff dyno machine this will have to do. I still say the hp is up there because how else am i able to beat wrx's and talons from rolling starts, not off the line until my wheelspin problem is solved. So think what you want but i have a few quick cars and have driven and built many and i know once this thing hooks up it will be interesting.

Thanks Dennis, the T/A is one of my fav cars as it looks somewhat stock but as many people find out its very far from stock.

Not one of my cars are stock, i mess with each and every one of them. Pics of the xt are coming soon as i finish off a roll of film.

here is my pro street 67 firebird.

here is my 76 laguna.

here are a couple of motors i built.

here is my 73 cutlass s.

here is my 71 buick gs.

here is my 70 mustang.

Here is my 73 mach 1.

Here is the 81 T/A

There is more done to this car than just cams and lifters Dennis, read fully what has been done. Also the dyno was set to take power to weight ratio into consideration which means that to produce those results the car needed at least 283hp to provide the #'s it kicked out. Everything is the way you set things up on a motor, lets say you put cams in, but the wrong ones ( ex. overcaming or not caming enough will make a car that doesn't have the necessary parts to make it work will not have good outcomes). The cams for mine are built exactly to my specs, and proper cams will increase power alot more than 20hp if you know what you are doing. If anybody else wants to build a motor like mine, i will show you how and you will see that these #'s are totally possible. The power increase on my motor is from 120hp to 283 which is only 163hp which is easily attained. 163hp more isn't very much and i am going to do more because for me this is not enough as i am used to driving 500hp + cars as daily drivers and i'll attach some pics of my 569hp 81 T/A which is a daily driver, along with a few of my other toys as soon as i scan the pics from my albums. I'm going over to a buddy's house to use his scanner because as you know mine sucks.

This one was with the car running 11psi, the one running 15psi is slightly higher. I'll be getting the car tested again when i get the nos hooked up and shed a few more pounds off the xt.

Here is a scan of dyno sheet, scaners not the greatest but you can still read it.

Net has been down for a few days so couldn't do anything. As for people saying bs, i say bs right back because i have been building race cars for 15 years now and i do know what i'm doing. This is my first jap car ever but i have done many chevs,fords and dodge. If you are saying bs you haven't been reading closely what has been done to this car, if you were a true speed freak like i am you would know what happens to a car when you have done what i've done. Also by the way, wheel horsepower takes wight of the car into consideration. Example, a 500hp car weighing 3500 pounds will do an easy mid to high 12 sec run, where as you take the same horsepower in a car 1000 pounds lighter it will go faster. Or a 400hp car weighing lets say 2800 pounds will get the same times as the 500hp heavier car. Its all in the power to weight ratio. My car weighs in at 2080 pounds with a full tank of fuel (yes i have lightened it up a bit), as you know a wheel hp dyno takes the power to weight ratio into consideration. Its saying that due to my loss of weight my power is increasing, it would be like putting a stock 120hp xt at stock weight and it will be stock. But lets say you lose 300 pounds on that same car, your power to weight ratio will increase. My xt is not stock nor is it stock weight, now do you understand. I hope this makes things a little clearer. more later now that my computer is working.

Also, ngk iridium plugs, ngk 8mm wires, accel super coil and cap. I think thats it now. thanks again to everyone who gave me ideas and help during my project so far.

Well all i have to say is go for a ride and you will change you mind about the horsepower right away. As for mods, no cat, just straight 2.5" pipe all the way to the back going into a flopro free flow muffler then into a pacesetter resonator tip. Front mount intercooler, front mount oil cooler, turbosmart boost control valve set at 15psi, stock turbo has also been polished for smoother flow,cbv blow off valve, hks air intake, all emission and pollution stuff in trash, heads are shaved ported and polished, copper head gaskets, titanium lifters springs and retainers, forged pistons, Sachs race disc and pressure plate, alumimum flywheel, custom cams specially made for my specs(336 lift) , Vp 103 octane unleaded race fuel, no rear seat or spare tire and jack, hood, back and front bumper are in process of being lightended. Want more? go for a ride. This car has proven many fast wannabe cars just what a subaru can do with a few mods. Also for comparison, roll on races with wrx's even some of the moded ones in town still can't keep up(not that i wouldn't love to mod up a wrx but they are to expensive right now). But of course i still get killed off the line due to my nasty wheel spin problem. pics and more soon as i get less busy at work.