Ever Victorious
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Posts posted by Ever Victorious
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i put impreza seats in my EJ2.2 DL coupe
just bolt the ea seat rails onto the impreza seats bolt the front of the rails on then drill through the ixisting holes on the back of the rails cause as you will see the ea rails ar about an inch shorter super easy did it in about an houre both sides really comfyCould you put this in the actual seat refit thread? It's on page 2 or 3 by now.
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i would clean it before sticking it in, clean parts is happy parts
What, it's not like it's going in this weekend..
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I just have a short fuse for stupidity.
GD
So how does that explain you being helpful to me? I'm about as stupid as they come.
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Well, the haters can scream and shriek now, since I have a 5-spd EA81 trans sitting in my garage.
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http://www.pullapartwa.com/PriceList.html
Cross member K-frame is listed at $26.50. They might also tack on $16.50 for the steering gear. Though Arlington is usually more lenient with their pricing than Lynnwood is.
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Well you guys better pray that our winters NORMALIZE again. The past couple have been not so nice, and this last one actually forced the city of Seattle (as well as other local municipalities) to start salting the roads again.
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Niku said the '84 wagon at the Arlingon PaP has one.
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The train of Iowa-plated Subarus will drive into the grounds at WCSS-12...
...and be left as a pile of rust...
As a train of Washington and Oregon plated Subarus makes its way back east across the mountains and plains..
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I can't help with the side window latches, save for advising you to put a post in the wanted section on the site... or if you don't need to open them, just zip tie them shut permanently.
Anything else, just use the search function or ask. You name a project and it has either been done on this board, or at least researched thoroughly.
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In W. Wa, the average would be $500. Give or take depending on condition and mileage, but rarely more than a grand.
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Pretty nice find there!
Since you live in Washington, you have a lot of close-by members you can use as resources, as well as the classifieds section here being quite good for finding parts.
I'd post an ad in the parts wanted section. someone may have them and would be willing to ship them to you for a few bucks, if you don't mind used parts.
Pull-a-part yards, if you have any near you, are going to be your friend.
Can't really see the top of your dash to see what kind of condition it's in, but your dash vents amazingly look intact. You'll want to keep your dash and dash vents in as good of shape as possible. $25 or so for a dash cover might be a good investment if yours is still in good shape (the sun in Wenatchee is MURDER on car interiors!)... and look into plastic conditioners to keep your vents from drying out and cracking into a billion pieces.
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3 gallons of herculiner vs. going to WCSS and having GD help him transfer all the guts to a rust-free wagon? Hmmm... I don't think there's much of a comparison there.
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Though at this point nothing can be saved that was left... the car's already been hauled off to the crusher. If we had been able to roll it off my driveway to the side yard there might have been a chance to get that steering rack, but as it was, with the control arms disconnected, we could barely move it far enough to get my wife's car out so she didn't kill me... much less my own car.
+1 on how heavy that trans is, though. I've picked up Torqueflites lighter than that. And not little ones either, the ones designed for V8s.
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Pipes through the hood... heh... like the parts car from today. As long as the hood is already denty and rusty...
Though I can't imagine your passengers would like having the exhaust pipe sticking right up in front of them.
I'm going to say black bottom, but that could be because that side doesn't look as rusty.
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wouldn't be the first time someone has gone with either idea you've got there. though if it's rotted, I'd say the buggy would be a better idea.
Or if you've got space for parts, just part it out and keep the spares on hand.
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I think an even funnier part is that the guy who brought this car up to me apparently has been holding onto it a year and has never looked inside of it. I discovered a slightly moldy $5 bill under the passenger seat. I used it to buy lunch.
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Can we see a pic of the Enkies?
Check the for sale forum. As yummy as they are, I'm fine with what I've got on the BRAT.
Coupes are cake to strip, not a whole lot of stuff to take off.
If it has a title, its a shell on a flat bed when it leaves.
Too much time/work to cut it up.
You're also the master stripper. I mean... uhm...
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That pic was taken before we were done. No sawzall, though, so rockers/quarters weren't an option. doors were both badly banged up (driver's side barely opened/closed) so I didn't consider them "saveable".
Windshield, all front lights/markers were damaged to the point of making them not worth salvaging.
P/S crossmember / rack crossed our minds, but we ran out of time and I needed the driveway back... also it would likely have needed a rebuild anyway.
Passenger's fender MAY have been saveable by someone with decent body skills, but it was pretty dented too. Driver's fender was just plain hosed. It looked like the previous owner skipped down a jersey barrier with the left side of the car.
(and then repeated on the right side for a while)And the wheels on there were mostly my castoffs from my BRAT. This thing had a nummy pair of alloys on it, possibly Enkeis (I'm not super familiar with the available alloys) that were the first thing I yanked off of it.
I even got almost all of the trunk liner bits, minus the carpet (gone) and the forward wall (rotted out).
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... and this is what happens.
The motor, radiator, and exhaust were gone from this thing when it showed up on my doorstep this morning, but Niku-Sama and I made sure there was nothing usable left on it. Two bored guys + 1 parts car = 1 hulk and 1 big pile of parts.
(It used to be an '82 GLF)
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It's not the difficulty of getting the radio console OUT,.. it's getting it back IN with the added length of the aftermarket stereo, plus all the wiring coming off the back. It's a real bear to line back up.
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Sent you a reply PM.
I think a wide-case EA71 might also work.
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snicker... rofl...
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True, but fwd sucks.
Once again, I don't want to hear opinion on the merits of this, I want to hear mechanical facts. Keep your opinions to yourselves.
Everyone.
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Well if you go RWD you're just keeping the 4WD drivetrain, so that doesn't exactly pertain to this situation.
More blasphemous ideas (purists don't read)
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I think GD said the clutch is the same between the 4WD and FWD ea81 trans. The clutch in the BRAT is already brand new, so I was just planning on reusing it.