Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Ever Victorious

Members
  • Posts

    691
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Ever Victorious

  1. I have found Timing belts and pulley on E-Bay for 150 or so.

     

    At least here in Vermont, I know of a couple of places that charge 5-600 for belt, water pump, pulleys and labor. Not sure what it might cost in your area.

     

    Also question to Everyone else. Should timing belts be changed around 60-80000 miles?

     

    60k, unless there are cases where the timing belt is a different p/n (and more expensive) for California. In those cases, 100k between belt, as CA emissions belts (at least on older cars) were required to last longer between replacements.

  2. Ah, finally my stupid Nissan gives me something to apply knowledge to.

     

    In my Nissan, our "fault condition" is when the light flashes for 60 seconds then goes solid.

     

    When the system goes into a fault condition, the BCM (Body Control Module, another wonderful Nissan POS device) stores a code. Nissan mechanics normally claim that the tire sensor has just lost communication with the system, and they "reregister" (reset) all the sensors to clear the light and get you on your way.

     

    However, as we have found out, the error will reoccur after around 1000 miles, and it will always be the same code.

     

    We have also found the corrective action:

     

    On first failure, replace the wheel sensor for whichever wheel throws the fault code.

     

    If the failure occurs again with the same fault code, replace the BCM. Not sure what part of the system on a Subaru takes the part of the BCM. ECU maybe? unless there's a separate systems computer.

     

    Hope this helps.

  3. i switched over to 185-70s and there was a dramatic difference in handling. clicky for tirerack.com's cheapest, and best wet performing 185-70 at 34 bucks apiece, plus shipping. i live in florida so snow is no concern to me.

     

    185's will fit fine. Some models come with them stock.

     

    Those particular Kumhos are very similar to a set that came on one of my Kias (2002 Optima LX 4-cyl) that absolutely sucked in the snow. They were, however, very good in the wet, so I can confirm that.

     

    sadly, Spokane can get quite a bit of snow, slush, and ice during the winters. I'd suggest a Toyo 800 series touring tire... their dry handling may suck, but their wet/snow handling is great.

  4. Having been involved in the planning of the first two WCSS shows, I can say that all of the organizers did put in a LOT of work. Even with how small the first two events were (22 cars and what, 96 the second year? no mud pit, etc.), they still took quite a bit of planning. With how complicated it is to throw an event of the size that happened, with all the various aspects of the show and the various vendors... well...

     

    Bravo, guys. And I do mean that from the bottom of my heart.

     

    While I was not at the show long enough to see any of the troublemakers, I would hope that you either learn your lessons or simply have the grace not to show up again.

     

    (and this is not coming from a "minion" of Zap, either. We've butted heads in the past, but he's quite right here...)

  5. .:headbang: yep we are

    home and after that ride i feel like a milkshake.i had to stop and scrape out my front wheels.:lol:

     

    trydriving six hours like that

     

    I dunno about you, but with how violently my 6 was shaking, I know for sure either myself or the car would have given out FAR before then. One hour was extremely painful, and my friend was kind of shocked that the car didn't break on the way to Schwabbie.

  6. oh man the mud pit was FUN... overheated bad though, piece of mud came through window and blocked temp gauge, and then I stopped and wondered why I had no power and wiped off my dash and my temp gauge was PEGGED :eek: :eek: :eek: I had been smelling something that smell like burning coolant so I thought I had blown a hg but after checking it out and letting it cool down it turned out to be fine... damn ea81s are tough little motors.

     

    anyone get any pictures of my car? I didnt have my camera and my gf with me stayed far away from the mud :-(. it was the stockish yellow sube w/ grey spoke wheels and the funky looking brush guard/bumper w/ 2 small 55w lights and 1 100w spotlight on it... no grill, missing 1 bezel, cheap subaru windshield banner.

     

    is the mud pit gonna be running again tomorrow?

     

    My friend was taking pictures, hopefully he will email them to me tomorrow. He didn't get all the cars, but quite a few. Was yours the wagon that had the coolant leak early in the day?

     

    I'm home now. Getting there was a chore... even after using the hose at the mud pit to wash off mud from the wheels, and spending 20 minutes with a high-power spray washer in town, I couldn't get enough mud out from inside the wheels to get the wheels to balance. Had to drive all the way to Vancouver to find a Les Schwab, so I could drive home at full speed.

     

    Note to self for next time: Bring spare set of wheels for mud pit.

  7. Glad to hear you got things going.

     

    The Shoreline area is where I grew up. We were back there in May visiting family. It's a nice area to live if you can handle the heavy traffic at times.

     

    I'm also from Shoreline, graduated from Shorecrest in '96. Traffic wasn't really a problem when I was growing up there, but the area has grown so quickly, yet the infrastructure hasn't...

  8. and considering it was me resurrecting it, 2 months is probably a really short time for completion of that little "project".

     

    Thanks to Smart Service, it now drives straight, has power steering, and doesn't overheat.

     

    Turns out the thermostat WAS stuck closed. There's a new Failsafe thermostat in there now. The car still runs a LITTLE hot, but not nearly as bad as before. Apparently neither radiator cap will hold pressure, so I need to replace those to finish the cooling fix.

     

    But it ran well from Shoreline up to the emissions station in Everett, where I sat around idling for about 20 minutes... passed emissions with flying colors, and drove home just fine.

     

    I just put the tabs on it, but it's kinda hot and the A/C doesn't work, so I'm not going to play with it till later this evening.

  9. Sounds like a pretty darn tootin find!

     

    Regarding the fuse... I wouldn't think that just one belt motor is attached to a fuse by itself. turn on all the accessories individually and check their function. If you have one that doesn't work, check its fuse. It might be related.

     

    If everything else works 100%, it might just be a dead belt motor. If the belt is stuck in the closed/locked position, you can simply use it by detaching the "emergency" buckle every time you get in/out of the car. My friend did this for years with his Peugeot after a belt motor failed and locked the belt in its normal use position.

  10. there are a couple guys here who are absolute regulars at the PaP yards. You might see if one of them can get the parts you need and send them to you for a modest fee, since you're kinda far away from those yards (I go maybe once every 6 months, but I happen to have impeccable timing and a tendancy to enter the yard within an hour of an XT showing up)

  11. Im pretty sure im going to, But does anyone have any XT Parts cars here? Im gonna need some interor parts, the dash trim is busted or somthing, the glove box is all gimped out, and theres more, the front seats ripped abit, but the new motor and turbo is what makes me want it, i checked the oil, iv never seen such clean oil except in brand new cars.

     

    I see 'em every now and then in Pull a Part yards. There's also and XT6 for sale on CL right now that would yield the interior parts you need (and other vultures here would want other parts off of it)

  12. Actually, part of what I felt during the heat test was the fins, in a couple places, and they felt intact. The radiator is cold all over even at full operating temp.

     

    I take it that in a normally operating cooling system, the water stays in the engine/coolant reservoir until warm, then the t-stat opens up and sends water to the radiator for cooling?

     

    If that's the case, then yeah, it sound like the bad t-stat because the coolant hose coming off of the housing is also stone cold.

  13. No, if there was a difference in temp between the top and bottom, then there would be a problem. It almost sounds like a sticking t-stat. Not sure if you said you replaced it or not?

     

    Haven't, yet... I had asked for advice about removing the t-stat housing bolts without breaking the bolts off in the water pipe... the one and only time I replaced an XT thermostat, I ruined the water pipe.

  14. OK... you guys said run it at operating temp and then check the bottom of the radiator... well, I ran it up to 1/2 to H (what was operating temp on my last XT), and then felt the radiator in several places.

     

    I felt it down near the bottom on both sides of the radiator (the tanks?) and also on the fins, then I also touched the top of the fins.

     

    The radiator is STONE COLD everywhere I touch it!

     

    I take it that's not a good sign?

×
×
  • Create New...