Storydude1
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Posts posted by Storydude1
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Thanks for the reply and a note on the "rules". I just called the dealer and they said the ecu would be $1500, is this correct?
Michael
Or, you can send me 200, and I'll get you a tested good one from the junkyard.
1500 bucks is insane...
The local pick-a-part sells ECM's for 35 bucks, WITH a 30 day warranty.
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Story-D
Headers were welded today, for 10$.
The muffler repair shop was asking 700$ for the whole collector assy..... kills me, guess some people just nod with their heads and say go ahead!
Gonna mount them this evening and see if there's indeed some kind of U support. If not, guess I'll have to fashion my own.
Will appreciate if you could post a picture of course, maybe showing to where is it supposed to attach. Any extra info will be apreciated.
Tnxs
TG
I can post a pic...but it will not help you too much. I had to mangle the pipe to get it off...notmuch is left of it.
It attaches to the Transaxle at the point where the pipe is closest to the transaxle...Roughly the middle of the car. -
Does sound like an issue with the torque converter locking up/not locking up. Not sure what the fix would be though.
I don't know enough about the Subaru TCM to make a determination. I'm not sure if Lock-up is controlled by fluid pressure, or a solinoid. If it's solinoid, a swap MIGHT change it.
Of course, I'd also need to know how the tranny unlocks the converter as well. Most are done by brake application(electrical), some are controlled by TV pressure, some by Speed sensors.
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Thanks Al
Being located in italy, the last thing you want to do is go with aftermarket, it would make passing the bi-anual state inspection a real hassle. and I have to do it right now...
Your story about a clamp to the bodywork holding up the whole thing around the headers-central pipe joint confirms my suspicions that it is indeed missing in my car.
Will appreciate if somebody could post a pic of that area...
Thanks
T-guzzi
I have the one I cut off of mine if you woud like a picture.....Seems that is a common place for them to rust as well. Mine is so far: rusted at the 2-1 junction under the heads, Rusted at te 2-1 junction under the motor, Rusted at the body mount just aft of the converter, and rusted at the second converter.
93 Legacy wagon.
All the body mount is is a u-shaped piece of metal, that bolts to a boss on the Transaxle. It's about dead center under the car, where the pipe transitions from Right to Left.
I'm just going to gut the entire system, and make my own...2X the cost of the car for JUST exhaust is NOT gonna happen.
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I'm getting more senile. This is also why water drains for fuel tanks are on the bottom. Sometimes I type faster than my brain works.
Happens to the best of us..
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to get in there from one station or pump and stay until you run the gas out or put a can of dry gas in. If you have swirched stations and get exactly the same result odds are it is not water.
If you have water stay in the gas it stays on top of the fuel. Every time you run down to the same level the car sputters. You can also have it sputter on hills when the water hits the pickup. In the winter it is most miserable when the water can freeze in the gas line.
Throwing a code is when the check engine light comes on. The car computer stores the code that indicates a fault.If you unplug the ox sensor it will store a code that says faulty ox sensor. Maybe PO420. This helps a mechanic locate the problem.
To clear a code is to disconnect the battery or use a code reader on clear code setting. Not all codes will clear on a battery disconnect so I am glad to hear the Subaru ox sensor will clear this way.
I would follow the advice to test by disconnecting the ox sensor first I think.
I and a number of others on the board have my own code reader. At under $100 it is a good investment.
Just to clairify..Gas floats on water. Otherwise oil spills would not be a big deal..it would all sink.
Water in a gas tank will sink to the bottom, and be picked up by the sending unit.
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I cleaned the ground connections on the battery and the two leads. I took out the bulb for the CEL and my fuel gauge is not reading.
Check the plugs that go into the instrument cluster.
MY guess is that one of them is not seated all the way.
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If you shift to neutral, the shutter stops. Put it in drive and settle to constant speed and shutter starts again.
Sounds like your converter is not locking up, or is not holding as well as it should.
Now, fixing that is another thread all together..
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Thanks for the input so far. I'll keep looking around past posts, etc.. for more info.
I've yet to see the low fuel light, but I'll try and test it out too.
Make sure you have a few gallons of gas in a can before trying this.
I attemped to "test" my Low fuel light in my new 93 wagon...It worked...1 min before the car sputtered and stalled. Out of gas.
So, I CAN say that the light works...and when It comes on in mine, it's EMPTY! 
The 30 min walk to a gas station really bit too..I'm not blowing up a AAA call for my stupidity
Of course, I got MUCH better MPG when I fixed the Transfer pump's fuel line. the car runs MUCHO better with the transfer pump hooked to the sending unit...and not the EVAP SYSTEM!
Looks like the PO was not too bright 
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Dude, very funny. He meant a table with all the macros, etc.
The one I use is mostly good for tracking MPG.
You can download and modify from this:
http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18105
He labeled it Imperial, but the calculations are for US galons.
Dude, not to be a wongleflute, but WHY would one need a macro to type in:
114,987miles Oil change 10w40 grease all lube points.
114,997 Transmission service, 3 Qt, Dex/3
115,000 Rotate tires, ft/R.
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Is there a FREE maintenance log available for download to be used for oil changes, tire rotations etc or?
Thanks
Jim
Yes, it's called Excel.
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dude, does everyone have to pick on the young'n the roof rack is so when i kill a deer, i dont have to have the blood run every where like it did last year. and any thing else i want to haul. as far as the shovle, if for some odd reason, and you get stuck, im not letting you use my shovle!!! :-p
It's a JU thing...
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Teh 5.Nizzle!
Nice to see there are no garden tools, or roof rack on it.
check out the Nizzle!
http://www.youtube.com/watch.php?v=QfQOFZfkNRs&search=Hummer%20suck%20SUV%20Jeep
EDIT: Link semi NWS for f-bomb.
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Even if it does move, and a valve contacts a piston there will be no damage.
It's the 400Feet per second hammer blow that does in Interference engines.
When the motor is not spinning, the piston cannot come up and smack an extended valve. I would not try to turn it over past the stuck valve to re-align, but if it contacts it during the change, it's no big deal.
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Treasure hunt..... eh?
Might need a map with a big old "X" on it.
Check your PM's.
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If you look around here you(now I'm not saying stealing) might find a Factory service manual(although I would not condone such a thing as downloading copyrighted material;) )that you could, if you were so inclined, dowload, and print out.(If you don't mind babysitting a printer for 7 hours).
Not to say I would do such a thing(BWHAHAHAHAHAA) but they are out there...
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If the dealer will not offer a CARFAX, STAY AWAY. New Orleans Salvage vehicles have ALREADY been showing up at auctions around the WNY area.
That said, AWD, or 4wd vehicles fetch a preimum around here...I just sold a 86 Jeep Cherokee, RUSTY<RUSTY<RUSTY, but 4wd, for 1200 bucks...It was only worth about 100. I've noticed that most people around here do NOT sell the subarus...They hold on to them untill they rust away.
I just picked up a 93 Legacy wagon, AWD, but a few small rust holes for 500 bucks. Runs great, I just had to weld up the exhaust, and do some minor bodywork.
Rust is a way of life around here..the trick is to get a car without alot of rust, and try to keep it in check. A REALLY good way to prevent rust(albiet dirty as sin) is to take used motor oil, and spray the underside of your vehicle with it from a garden sprayer. It drips for a day, smells if it hits exhaust, and makes working on the underside a pain.......But it will NOT rust on you. My grandfather did this for 40 years, and his cars had less rust than others of the same age, and ones that were undercoated.
I'll keep my eyes open for you, and if I see a good deal, I'll let you know.
Are you between Buffalo, and rochester?
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Was wondering if anyone had any ideas. CEL came on last week in a rain storm and code read cat convertor low efficency. Had it reset and it was fine for about 5 days. Yesterday in a rain storm it came back on. What is the likely hood of it being either 1 or both of the O2 sensors and setting off this code? The MPG have dropped a little (from 28 down to 23) over the past week. I'm going to try the "rubber mallot tap" on the catalytic convertors this afternoon and see if I hear anything loose in there.
Rain is the common factor...I'd check for a loose connection, or corroded connection on the o2 sensors.
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I recently had to have a new battery put in my 2000 Forester. We have AAA, and they come out and put a battery in...easy deal right? WRONG! I wasn't there when they swapped the batteries. When I get the receipt there's a note written on it that says: 'battery tie-down stuck'. Hmm, I figure they had some trouble with it, but they got the job done, so I guess all is well...NOT! The next time I get in the car, I see a piece of metal on the floor on the passenger side of my car. I pick it up and IT'S THE BATTERY TIE-DOWN! They installed the battery but removed the tie-down. I haven't had time to look at the battery or call AAA yet, but I am pissed off. The only thing I can think of is that the battery they put in is the wrong one for my car. This is not the first thing AAA has screwed up. One time they came out to jump start my car, and the guy needed to remove the fuse box cover. As he was finishing, just as he's about to close the hood on my car, I see his screwdriver sitting in the engine compartment right where the hood latch is. I stopped him just in time before he probably would have broken the latch. We're not talking rocket science here folks. I would be doing these things myself, but for health reasons I can't. Anyone else had bad experiences with these people?
When you understand that that AAA guy only gets 12 bucks to come out for a service call, you understand his lack of committment.
I worked for AAA a few years back...that 12 bucks a call gets OLD FAST.
Add to it, the people ***************ing about the time it takes to remove a tire that has not been off the car since it was made, the spare that is flat, the snapped lugs, and the Wait time, Im suprised that AAA can even GET people to work for them.
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My advice?
Find a mid-late 90's Cherokee. they are bulletproof, and pretty good stock.
Lifts are easy, and the 4.0/AW4 combo will last WELL over 250K miles.
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This is normal.
X2. And it's a good thing. It keeps the seals lubed up, and the compressor running during the winter. As a result, your AC does not sit for months, without being used.
It ,like was said, also dries out incoming air, to aid in defrosting.
A little tip. Keep your widows spotless, and they don't fog as much.
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Standing in front of the car. Under the hood on your Left side between the firewall, and the strut tower(strut tower being the thing with the BIG nut all by itself) Bolted to the back side of the strut tower will be a black rectangle that says FWD on it. Pull that cover off, and insert a 20 amp fuse.
If the vibration goes away, you have torque bind.
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Hey everybody, I'm still pretty new to the EJ subaru engines, so this may be a stupid question, but here goes...
In about two months, I'm going to be doing a bunch of service on the EJ22 that's in my 86 wagon as well as the EJ25 in my mom's 97 Outback, including timing belt changes and replacing most of the seals on the front to the engines. I had heard somewhere that the water pumps on these engines like to go out at about 150,000 miles. Is this a common thing on these cars, or do the pumps usually run longer than that without any trouble? Both cars are creeping up on that mileage, so I'm wondering if I should replace the water pumps while I'm in there, rather than having them fail in a few thousand miles and having to take everything apart again. I would especially be worried about the EJ25 since their head gaskets are so sensitive, and overheating might cause them to go.
Thanks!
Anytime I rip into an engine, I replace anything that is surrounding the parts I replace. I.E. Belts, gaskets, hoses...I'd say for the small cost of a new WP, and seals, I'd replace it while I'm in there. It does not add much to the time involved, and the peace of mind is worth it.
Plus, it REALLY sucks when you have to remove EVERYthing you took off 2K miles later. Not saying it WILL go, but It usually seems like that:)
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If you have AC, and it does not work, do a search on OBA over on Pirate4X4.com(Do NOT post without knowing what you speak of over there...)
Engine driven, uses the AC compressor, and can supply more than enough air for ANY off-road need.
Less than 75 bucks in parts, and you can have 120PSI air@12CFM/2500Engine RPM.
Scuba tanks will not work(not enough volume)
Co2(Powertank)will work, but can get expensive with repeated fills.
Walmart 5 Gal air tanks=useless(unless used as a tank for engine driven OBA)
OBA link using Sanden(rotary) compressor
Great info there.
I installed my OBA on my Jeep for less than 50 bucks(used, and scrounged parts). It will fill a 31X10.5/15 from 15 psi to 35 in about 45 seconds...Or about as fast as my home 60 Gal.
Sanden compressor, 5 Gal wally world tank, and a few fittings.
K&N drop in filter
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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They are even better when you find them in the Boneyard, for 3 bucks..
I will say the one in my 93 Legacy was a little loose in the airbox. Same results..Not much difference if at all.