jono

OK so am I to some extent. I think just across battery terminals while it is being cranked and post result up to see if someone recognizes something for a start This is where you learn so don't have to take it to a shop and bend over

Wow, glad someone came out of the woodwork with that 36 tooth idea, thanks. I priced a new megajolt kit ....it might be a consideration once I was convinced ej was better than my EA82 Mongrel and the one I get is deserving of money spent Tell you what, it would also help using the Mk of the Ford Escort the dizzy is from whenever it is quoted. Is it Mk 4 Escort? Just UK market? On the megajolt was told it needs to be a 36 minus1 trigger wheel. Is that what later models use? And a reference to what year that later model is would also help

Just wondering if one of us, some of us, or mostly all of us are too thrifty to pay much for a distributor to whack on the back of an EJ with correct cam slot to run an EJ in an EA series vehicle Where would your wallet snap shut to have a used item delivered to your door that may need new points condensor, cap and rotor?

We got WRX before you guys ever heard of them, but we got stiffed in the 70s and 80s and got povert pack stuff. Never seen of Mitsu Cordia AWD but heard they exist. Parts of Europe got AWD BMW 3 series, we got rear wheel only. New Zealand got some great grey imports, we could here too for a price i now wish we got carbed EJ but not so ....although we did get Fiori with the 31 kW EN08 ( HP conversion not necessary - wont be much bigger number Dont think many Fioris did big km for a few reasons. I owned a dizzy but swapped it without wisdom. It still had original Mitsubishi points in it. You know, there must be a non english speaking country still too poor for internet and some guy tripping over a pile of low km EJ dizzys, carbs and manifolds

Saw this guy and was impressed until I found his ecu looked four plug

They did not get this far letting people down these ast thirty years and the people went on to buy another newer Subaru

I think I know where another Fiori dizzy is, just need a little drive .... Pain I swapped my first one, still had original points in it . Toonga has moved it on also ....

Injector cut would be dealt with as if simply converting a Lib 22 to LPG. Mate, I could stuff the injectors in the glovebox and let them do their thing as if they were a squirtin' if I had to Yeah really see every wire at the engine connectors needs to be connected and dealt with one by one. Ill grab the MAF. Might have to investigate why or where i cut the OBD2 port out as well I looked up the ECU number to find it is a 94 to 96, fits in with 9.95 compliance date, but RTA records show JF1BD6K is for MY1997, could be a double misprint though ECU only has three yellow plugs I found an edis module for 25 bucks, but it is the megajolt system that is pricey, whole kit about 500 bucks !!

Reckon I got this one sorted Bennie [theoretically anyway ] thanks. The efihardware seemed to be the way to go, then I found my spfi four pin has some cousins staying nearby, the three pin Series 1 and series 2 3[which is really only two pins/wires] plus the three wire round plug sensor hok up Gees, you'd think I d finish one project before think about another wouldnt ya ! Still gotta pull EA82T heads off, swap near new valve springs onto spare heads, reassemble. Strip down AWD box to fix what i fubbergusted, then load it all into B3. B3 engine can then go into B2. The EJ22 can go in a crate for a while while I play with wires and maybe do a Bennie and get it all working on the bench LPG conversion and all in readiness for something down the track. About to pull a 150,000km ea81 to slap my turbo conversion gear on out of curiosity and stop for a breathe....

Aha, thanks sparkyboy. This has twin exhaust ports. I suppose I won't care about obd until something goes wrong. I did not see or get a diagnostic socket.

OK just thinking I need to hook it all up as a goer on wet fuel, then approach it as if I am converting it to run dual fuel and just keep wet fuel off All engine sensors are still in place up to the harness plugs and I have the harness with cruise control cut out of it, auto cut out. Still plan on going ahead so if anyone got a pinout on the ecu be greatful

I knew I forgot TPS and coolant temp sender Um what about resistors across other inputs, injector emulator Would you have said same about S1 EA82T ? Bugger. I can grab the hotwire afm ??? Shoulda looked before I lept

you missed the important diagnostic bit as you will see , hear and maybe feel the torque bind release as soon as one wheel gets some relief from the torque bind you may have created by leaving all four on the road, hard surface. If you try it you will see.

Well, I'll be ! This info is appreciated as I still have the chance to walk away from the deal I have put a few hours into - literaly tearing the dash out, degreasing the filthy thing under the blazing hot summer sun. Only good thing was it is on a concrete driveway, not the usual dirt paddock with weeds n grass growing up through stuff, redbacks lurking and potential for eastern brown snakes I was envisioning twin throttles made to fit the heads, twin mixers - hmmm, might still have to try that ! A write up by a guy i met, who had done some early conversion says need to raise front by an inch. Took it as gospel it is by Tim 81 coupe on ausubaru.com Thanks I have pretty much zero know of ej other than a 16 i pulled to bits and chucked after abandoning idea of turboing it how do i tell phases?

OK. I read in places from time to time that an EA81 with an EJ conversion requires a lift or spacers of the engine cross member to clear the bonnet, I also read some of standard height do not have any height mods I am so confused now Who has an EJ in an EA81 with no spacers between engine cross member and chassis rails, no spacer at the back near the engine cross member? Photos? OK specifically an EJ22 from 95 era. It has quite a tall manifold. Or is there a lower profile inlet that fits an EJ22?

You can also get a current draw problem that causes slow cranking. A clamp meter test and some research on the technique might be worth a try. Earth lead connections both ends. Connect a crap power supply wont help - as you found out Have you read Volts at battery while cranking? Coulkd try swap starters if you have one. I would

six teeth? Is that all ? Thanks The EDIS thing has priced itslef out of the options anyway, this won't work wih it either Sixty degrees per tooth ....

Have you got a trolley jack you could take with you, try make it bind, stop and park safely while still stiff? Just stick jack under rear diff if that is allowed not gonna destroy any bushes? See if you get an unlocking release of the wheels as the rears come off the ground - just as they come off. This is what I have done when parked into a no more forward and cant reverse situation in EA81 EA82 stuff. Oh, I say rears coz our handbrakes on the front, you might need to leave you hand brake rear off and in nuetral, chock wheels again for safety

seen people break the bulb ....I hade a look at this 95 Lib I am playing with, either never had it or its been destroyed, no horn button

Is it something easy to produce? I have similar in the fuel injection section 2.7 of my EA82 manuals so suspect same is available for these Legs.Libs RHD prefered if its there Just to see the way Sube number the three yellow plugs or the pin out diagram and listing of the 64 possible wires. My pin out then lists by name, wire colour and function If someone could reproduce it here would be great, or a link to the manuals. Found a download of manuals on fb but it not contain this pin out. What I want to do, not just dreams now, its action stations, the donor EJ just needs lifting out - everything is undone, and I hauled out a loom that now looks like coloured...multi-coloured spaghetti. I want to make ECU just run the sparks, with a minimum of wires, and understanding of how this ECU works in comparison to EA Series 1 and 2 Many thanks for any help, pointers, knowledge - even balderdash if you like The donor is stamped witha compliance approval date 09.95 which is a bit later than make date which I have yet to find it is a 4SP auto FWD ( i think? ) so has the auto control box and complex wiring associated with it and ECU is likely different here in Oz but is a UI 22611AB640 A18-000 RV2 I'd like to think I can get away with a power wire an earth wire input from cam sensor input from crank sensor input from knock sensor three wires out to the coil pack - does the coil pack earth to its bracket? then there is about five wires [ i cut[ that connect the ignitier to the ECU It is to go in a Brumby so no speed sensor on the back of its speedo [only the plural of the name is a garment ] maybe I should grab the cluster for fun too? Am I missing something Manual box in recipient Grabbing the Y pipe exhaust hoping it will just bolt up to the pea shooter exhaust Fuel is intended to be dry gaseous propane so it sorts itslef out not needing gasoline injectors or rail or pump

Will also ask in EJ section. Spent good few hours plundering an EJ sedan for its wiring loom Found TCM easy but took the dash and heat cooling system out before I found the ecu in a funny place The plan is one day to use the ecu to give me spparks and nothing more. Use propane for fuel Earlier plan was to install an EDIS system but did not go into detailed costs until yesterday - more than just a module, needs an ecu like megajolt as well So if anyone has ever dumbed down a loom to just make sparks I would appreciate any tips I have in the past done similar to an EA82 GLTA by pulling two of the three ecu plugs just leaving remaining plug to control just the egr valve. All was good. My hope is that to leave the TPS, CAS, Camshaft sensor and knock sensor hooked up to the ecu it will power up the coil and igniter to make sparks for the ej22 Also hoping no interplay between fuel and spark side of things. Cut a heap of wire out to get rid of the auto process unit!!

Time to do a sticky thread with a title like EA82 timing belt links inside

Pretty sure you can but no matter what is said here you check them both side by side end to end nose to nose and see if they are the same. Make sure engine can turn over by hand first. Check the cleanth of battery terminal s and cables first. Grounds. Tap starter solenoid while trying to start etc

Anyone know if the wheel is of the 36 minus one tooth type? And the sensor itself ...a VR or hall effect? Reason I ask is playing with idea of EDIS 4 style ignition control so I won't have to wire up an ecu to run propane

Lookas like there is no 4 pin TPS for standard log style inlet manifold mpfi EA82 , just the spfi and spiders have 4 pin TPSensors Also looks like this forum has been mine alone last 24 hours - what happened, calendar turn over? Y 2.17K Bug ??