deerhunter
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Posts posted by deerhunter
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll take a look at the pcv tubes when I get a chance to later. And as for the tranny swap, I'm hoping to find a gl coupe with a dual range, which would make everything easier. If I did find one, theoretically could I swap over all the d/r stuff?
I did a tranny swap in my 87 GL sports coupe a couple of years ago. The biggest headache that I ran into was that the center bracket for the 2 piece drive shaft was not there and I had to drill the holes to mount the rear diff hanger. I cut the drive shaft bracket from another car by drilling out the spot welds. The bracket was easy to keep aligned because 2 of the bolts which hold the parking brake lever mount go through it. I can't weld, so I used a lot of pop rivets to secure the rest of the bracket.
Aside from changing the pedal cluster, the rest is fairly straight forward.
Word of advice, if you put in a dual range, you will not have to run the wires for the electric 4wd switch on the shifter. You will need to make the back of the shifter hole in the hump a bit bigger to accommodate the 4wd shifter. If you run into probs, drop a line here to subyjim. He has a shop outside of Vancouver and has done this job at least a dozen times. His shop record for the conversion is 14 hours and a flat of beer. Good luck
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It could be easier.. it is NOT a direct swap AFAIK but it should be largely the same. However, if you are even contemplating it then it suggest a certain degree of ability that would lead me to believe the phrase "world of headaches" MIGHT be a TAD strong.. It is all relative.
What kind of problems are you having? Most of the wiring issues from an AT-> manual swap can be coped with fairly easily. The simplest answer might be to find an ECU out of a stick shift vehicle, get the pinouts for each, and snip the plugs for the clutch, neutral sensors etc out of the donor vehicle, and just dovetail the stick shift electrical parts into your AT harness.
The ECUs are virtually the same; for all practical purposes I think they ARE the same, 87->94. The "issues" you speak of should be neutral position indicator type codes, right?
http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html
That is General Disorder's EA82 SPFI onto an EA81 write up. Out of left field, I know, but it tells you how to fool the ECU into thinking things are kosher, and helps illuminate the subject alot.
The last thing to say is that the ECU is hard coded to be in a manual or an automatic car. It isnt going to cause problems in and of itself, IF you can fool the auto ECU into seeing the right circumstances at the right times.. and his write up tells you waht those circumstances and times are.
Sorry, this post jumped around a bit.. I had to dash to the parts store for some fuel line before they closed in the middle of writing it, AND I am STILL conducting an IM conversation with a good friend who is a thousand miles away... but I hope this helps.
Thanks guys. The problems are that my 4wd electric shift is not working properly, my brake light indicator keeps coming on. I seem to have a short which is killing my battery and WTH, I have to pull the engine because of a weeping head gasket. While it's out anyway... I also have a clean iset of seats and carpet from an 89 turbo wagon that I want to fit into the coupe. Sounds like it's project time.
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I have been gradually remaking a 87 GL coupe for the last couple of years. I'm having some electrical probs because I switched it from a fwd auto to a 4wd standard. I have been given a 94 4wd wagon for parts. Any ideas re replacing the 87 wiring harness with the complete 94 wagon harness? Or am I only begging for a world of headaches?
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Oops, sorry. I didn't read properly about the throttle working when you pour gas down the throat. My bad. If it isn't the filters, take the lines off of the pump and try blowing out the lines with air. If you had a break in your fuel line, you'd know it by now. Good luck
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Your EA81 carburated right? Check to see if you have put a fuel inject fuel pump on it. You may be flooding it every time you touch the throttle. FI pumps run at about 40 PSI, carbed pumps only at about 4.5 PSI.
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Hey Tony. Welcome to the bunch.
My bro in southern BC is working on rwd suby buggies. He may have some good ideas for you too. Maybe save you some dead ends. He can be reached at subyjim@hotmail.com. Good luck. -
The easiest way to switch engines with differing wiring harnesses is to take the intake off the sedan's engine.The new intake gaskets aren't expensive. Don't forget the small coolant line behind the thermostat housing and the solid oil line at the back of the intake. As for the differences in the autos, check the flywheels and torque converters. You may need to exchange those too. I don't remember.Aside from that, the engine switch is simple and should only take an hour and a box of beer.
PS- while you have the engine out, check the timing belts, seals, oil pan gasket/bolts and exhaust. These are a heck of a lot easier to do with the engine out. A bit of work now saves a lot of walking later.
Rock on. -
I've got good news and bad. If you've overheated the engine too much, the heads may be cracked. A hot compression test will answer that question. If time and cash is short, these quick fixes may get you through until warmer weather comes. If you haven't already done it, change the oil. After you drain out the cheeze, an inexpensive way to flush the crankcase, is to put the drain plug back in, remove the coil wire and pour in 5 gal of diesel. Crank the engine over for a couple or five minutes, then drain into the catchpan. Keep the diesel for washing parts.
Take the hoses and end covers off of the engine.Wash the cheeze out of both with some diesel. Any cheeze left in the hoses will just get sucked up into your carb and foul things up.
If it's not too grungy, some of that diesel in a clean ketchup bottle will clean up around the valves too.
Using the throat method for cleaning your carb should do unless you happen to have a rebuild kit.
After all this, comes your cooling system. Drain out the coolant and flush out the system with water. If it's really full of stuff, there's drain plugs on the heads too. For years, I've successfully used Block Seal by Gunk to stop weeping head gaskets and cracked valves.It's really simple to use- just follow the directions on the bottle.
The hardest part of winter's over. When you replace the oil, use something thicker, maybe 10w40. This will cut down on the smoke.The smoke won't disappear right away, You've got crap blown into your exhaust, too.
This method should work and give you at least six months; unless the engine totally toast, or you're rally racing.
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Good for you but remember there's no such thing as a free lunch. It may be easier to pay someone a twenty or so to tow it for you when you consider the wear, tear and extra fuel for the legacy. That or the cost of a fender bender or an irate county mounty. As for it not catching check the usual- fuel, coil connections, plug wires and maybe someone else who was waiting to buy the car moved the distributer to discourage other people from wanting it.
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check to see if the metal clips on each end of the front pads are on right.I've never had a problem with torquing the hell out of the axle nut except for when I have to change a shaft out on the trail.
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You must have rainy days in order to appreciate the sunny ones, and the same is true of professionals as well. As the grinding noises do indicate a mechanical failure, pulling codes can't hurt. The best way to proceed, if you are paying a mechanic by the hour, would be to pull the timing covers and take a look. Hopefully your problem is just a blown tensioner and a dead belt. If all looks well then the next step will be to pull the covers to check the valve train. If there is still no visible problem then you do have problems. It could be internal but do not rule out the possibility of a driveline problem. I once bought back an '84 Turbowagon from a customer but had to return it when his 'blown motor' turned out to be a release bearing adjusted right through the pressure plate.
When he spoke to his mechanic ( the same one that adjusted the clutch ) and spoke of the horrific noises, he was told that his motor was shot and that such an old car was not worth repairing. I hope that your problems are as minor, and it might help to talk to anyone in your area who drives a suby to see if you can find a private mechanic who works on nothing but subies.
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Thanks guys! Left the battery cable off all night, in case the new stereo has some sort of power supply ( doubtful ), followed the reset procedure. At first, the cel stayed on continuously, then switched to the blinking again. I stand corrected; the blinking I was getting was one short flash every three seconds, not the even blinking of the 'all clear' code. The engine stalled as soon as I touched the gas. When I started it up again the cel went out, hopefully not to return. Thanks for all the help.
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The D check wires had never been hooked up before. They are now. The local dealer says it's a hard code and should not be driven. However, it's been driven like this for the last 6 mos and also breezed through the emissions control test 2 weeks ago. Still don't know. Dealer says tow it in. What is he smoking and where can I get some?
Are you saying the D check connectors are hooked up? If they are, they should be disconnected too. -
Just found the other end of the single black wire, it was taped back into the wiring harness and, as such, had never been connected. We have two other '90 Legacies here and they also have the same wire taped back and the green connectors normally connected. Cel is still flashing. Getting ready to yank a bulb, but that would still leave the computer stuck in a check mode of some sort. Still hoping.
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According to the information posted on "surrealimages", the intermittent flashing of the cel is merely an "all clear" code. This would indicate that the computer is stuck in a check mode of some sort. None of the methods given for a '92 Legacy worked to get rid of the flashing cel. The only other clue is that when the key is turned on, without the motor running, the rad fan operates intermittently as well. Would anyone know how to properly reset the ECU on a 1990? Please?
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Hi. I have a 1990 Legacy with a check engine light that is flashing a 1 short continually. Can anyone tell me what is going on or where I find the proper codes? Thanx.
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:leave your foot off the gas as you roll the car out of the hole in second gear, foot off the clutch, of course. When clear of the water, set parking brake, depress clutch, hold throttle fully open and run starter until motor takes over. Oil change may be necessary if oil is contaminated.Suby on.
oh man, look under the hood! just pullin your leg, but seriously, the big thing that all the plug wires are attached to, that's the disty. EJ series motors don't have a disty, but EA's definately do.wow, 3-4k rpm's?! no wonder you F--ed up your motor! I guess I should just spill the beans, it'll be a week or so before I get good pics/video of it, but I went through easily 2.5-3 FEET of water last weekend...got mud on the crank angle sensor, she came home on a tow strap! stock intake: DRY!!! I was crawling through it, speed is your enemy in water! you'd be suprised how soft the stuff can be and you can still be moving, hills are a different story, but relatively flat bottoms of water crossings, take it easy. and protect the electronics. If you like hitting the water at WOT 3-4k rpm's, yea, get a snorkel, and REALLY protect your electronics. I was in stuff so deep, I was worried about the ECU!
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A good crack with a lead hammer does the trick for me. Don't hit the spindle with a steel hammer or else the threads and your day will really get ruined.
Ok well today I found an XT Turbo at the junkyard and decided to take the rear discs off to put on my Brat. I got the caliper off, and the 36mm nut, and the lugnuts, but I cannot pull the hub/rotor off. Now that I notice it the guide says "Sometimes the cone washer wont want to come loose, use your hammer and gently tap the spindle and the sides of the rotor until the cone-washer pops out of place." that was definitaly my problem. I can't get that cone-washer off so I can pull the hub/rotor off. Any help or tips would be appreciated.I will go back next week with a mallet and try loosining that cone-washer so I can get disc brakes for my brat!
P.S. Check out my thread on an old 1975 Subaru 1400 that was at the junkyard http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43979
95 AWD Legacy tranny woes
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The AWD in my automatic 95 Legacy tranny will not work. Fluid looks good. I looked but can only see about a dozen hoses and wires going into the tranny. Where can I find schematics to fix this?
any suggestions?