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johnphils

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Posts posted by johnphils

  1. Sorry about the full pm box.......

    I have deleted all old mess. and will watch it more closely.....

    I check my e-mail frequently so thats a great place to reach me......

    Thanks.

    Toney

     

    SUBARUPARTS@JOHNPHILS.COM

     

     

    apparently they don't prefer PM. call or email them as they requested and you will get the help you're looking for. drag your cursor over their member name and click on it, you'll see the email option. it was also posted in their original thread, but the forum administrators changed the site and this thread was "restarted" without the email address actually posted in the thread. but just click on the name of any user and it will show an email option if they've chosen to make that available.
  2. It's probably your rear acess plate on the back

    Subaru has a updated aluminum plate now to replace the plastic one that leaks

     

     

     

     

     

    2.5 L sohc, 68,000 miles. Leaking Oil badly from above the oil pan on the rear of the engine. Could this be the rear main seal or something else? A drip every minute or so. I cant see exactly were it is coming from. any suggestions? are the rear mains a known problem area? thanks

    Larry

    Muskegon, mi

  3. Drivers side look up in under the dash, you will see the keyless entry brain and there will be a black wire tucked up in there with a little black button. Sometimes they are hard to find. Once you find it push and hold the button in you will hear the locks, then while still holding the button push anybody on the remote and you will hear the locks again, than let go of the little button and you are all programed. Hope this helps.

     

     

     

    Anyone have simple directions for reprogramming a remote for 97 legacy? I can't find a black disarm button; the directions that can with the remote are worthless. thx
  4. PART NUMBER KIT WHICH INCLUES THE FLYWHEEL BUT NOT TH T.O. BEARING IS

    32098AA020

     

     

     

    organic clutches that chattered. When I got sick of the chatter in my 99 I had the kit fitted that cured 99% of it. My dealer did not know the new numbers and I had to order the upgraded clutch by the number or get one just like I had. Several folks posted the numbers for this kit at the time. I would think a search would find the proper numbers, if not I still have the recipts at home. It's been a couple of years now and my clutch is still pretty good.

    It turns out that organics are good for vegetables, but not so great in clutch lining.

  5. Your transfer clutches are most likelt your problem. You don't have to take the tranny all apart for this. Pretty easy job.

     

     

    I'm having a problem with my 96 Legacy.

    When I take a slow turn (like coming out of a parking space) very sharp, the car will jerk a bit, like it wants to shut off. Then, I straighten the wheels and it's fine again. Only seems to happen on very slow, very sharp turns.

     

    Any ideas?

  6. Hi,

    They had some piston problems on those and have come up with updated pistons.

     

     

     

     

    My 99 forester with 2.5 (115000 miles)is making this nagging engine knock once i get up around 3KRPM. it's not there cold but gets there when it warms up and remains even in idle.

     

    Once cooled down with engine off it goes away once again until warmed up and driving.

     

    I guess it could be a plugged valve lifter if this model has them .

    Sounds more knocky then tappy like i would expect a lifter.

  7. What year is your car? Subaru has 8 years or 80,000 mile warranty on there cats.

     

     

    Was wondering if anyone had any ideas. CEL came on last week in a rain storm and code read cat convertor low efficency. Had it reset and it was fine for about 5 days. Yesterday in a rain storm it came back on. What is the likely hood of it being either 1 or both of the O2 sensors and setting off this code? The MPG have dropped a little (from 28 down to 23) over the past week. I'm going to try the "rubber mallot tap" on the catalytic convertors this afternoon and see if I hear anything loose in there.
  8. [subaru came out with a new clutch kit that includes a new flywheel.

    I would recommend buying the updated clutch kit. Do you know if the other dealer put in the updated style clutch?

     

     

     

    QUOTE=q240z]Well, the OBW's engine shakin' days are long gone. That new exhaust valve solved the problem, but now a new one has become apparent: this Subi shakes like a mutha on take-off.

     

    Hot or cold--doesn't matter.

    Only happens on initial take-off. No problemo on 1-2-3-4-5 upshifting or downshifting.

    Regular clutch release at regular rpm--judders most but not all of the time.

    Slow release at low rpm--BIG judders.

    Slow release at 1500-2000 rpm--BIG, kidney-bruising judders.

    Fast release at 1500-2000--not much of a judder, but the missus doesn't appreciate launching.

     

    The weird thing is that the previous owner gave me a receipt from the dealer in Pennsylvania (Minooka) for a $1000 clutch and rear separator plate replacement less than 20k miles ago. If this was a Datsun, I'd say somebody at the dealership was sloppy with the clutch plate and got some grease on it, since there're no oil leaks on the car. But then I noticed that '02 Subis are known for having clutch judder problems. The solution on many web sites: replace the clutch with an OEM Subi unit. Been there, done that.

     

    Any thoughts on this one? As always, thanks in advance.

  9. Hi,

    It is either your aprk plugs, or wires or fuel injector.

    Fuel injectors on these cars also cause misfire codes.

     

     

     

     

     

    QUOTE=Bradsit]Hey all,

    Ever since I got my 97 outback wagon I've had nothing but bad luck. 1 week after I drove it off the lot the head gasket blew...with the help of this board I was able to come to the conclusion that that was the problem. I then took it back to the dealer and asked them to fix it, which they were kind enough to do. Unfortunately it was a small dealership with minimal resources and they took a whole month to finish my car. I just got it back this weekend with a new head gasket and t-belt, however there is now a new problem.

     

    As soon as I started the car I noticed a very rough idle, also the check engine light was on, but after dealing with the car lot for so long I decided I would just fix it myself. I took it to autozone where the diagnostic machine said it was a cylinder #1 missfire, and a failing camshaft position sensor. I installed a new sensor and the CEL turned off, but there is still a very rough idle, almost as if the car is about to stall sometimes. It seems like the timing is still way off, it also feels like the cylinder is still missfiring. I want this to go away, and I just want my car to run well. Does anybody have any suggestions what to do next?

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