
740gle
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Everything posted by 740gle
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I have Yokohamas v4s 205/55/16R on my '02 Legacy GT wagon, that have about 10Kmiles on them. One tire has bulge on a sidewall, so it needs replacement. Dealer carried these (and only these) tires, but they want $125 per tire. 1) Can I replace only 1 tire? 2 tires? What is the spec when all 4 need to be replaced? 2) I see ContiExtremeContact on Tirerakck get very nice reviews and are cheaper, than Yokos. What's the real life rap on them? Thanks, -Michael
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Fuel filter and transmission fluid were replaced last summer (10K miles ago) by the dealer as part of the 90Kmiles service. I've seen a fuel filter under the hood, and it doesn't seem to be a difficult job to replace it, although, I've never did anything on the fuel system. How do you relieve the fuel pressure? -Michael
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Both my wife and I noticed a lack of usual power in our 02' Legacy GT (non-turbo). It is definitely slower when merging in traffic and off the line. It feels like it flattens out or even drops the acceleration above 3000 rpm's I have just changed oil and filter, and air filter. Spark plugs and wires where replaced a year ago or so, with the OEM parts. Where do I look for? No OBDII codes. Mileage is as usual, or even somewhat better, no strange noises, no visible oil in the coolant, and no visible coolant in the oil. If it was manual transmission, I'd suspect slipping clutch, it feels similar. Can it be something slipping in AT, or AWD ? It does have some exhaust leak, but I am not sure it may be related to the power loss ? -Michael 02' Legacy GT wagon 101Kmiles
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Today, the first time since I got it new in November 2001, it refused to start. Was catching, while cranking, but choked and stalled immediatly. Popped up the hood while my son was cranking, Geez - sparks dancing around all-over the hi-voltage cables. WD-40 spray made it start again, apparently it needs new wires, so here are my questions: 1) Any preferred brand/vendor for the wires, except the dealer? 2) How does one get to them? I did manage to pull the ones from the two cylinders clossest to the front on both sides, but how do I get to the other two? Do I have to pull out the washer fluid reservoir, and whatever else is there in my way? 3) When I pulled the wire out from the cylinder on the driver side - it was all covered with the motor oil. The other one was clean. WTF? DO I need a new head or valve gasket? 4) What else should I replace/clean/grease as a PM under the hood on this car, and how do I get there?. Distributor is obviously not an issue here. Grounds? Sorry, if my questions sound trivial to the enlightened, This is the first time I am going to do anything beyond topping off the fluids and changing the oil on this car. Any advice, suggestions, real life experiences would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance, Michael
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Just did some troubleshooting following your leads,: checked both LH and RH headlight fuses and relays in the M/B - everything looks nice and clean, started the car - problem is there: left headlight is on, right headlight is off, measured voltage on the RH fuse - 14V, pulled RH relay, voltages on the relay contacts all read - 14V except one, which I suspect controls the thing. pulled LH relay - left headlight went out, but the high beam bulb came up, athough very dim, plugged the LH relay back, and both right and left headlights are now up, and bright. Turn the car on/off few times - all up. It is all looking good now, but WTF? Why was it happening? Why pulling out and plugging back the Left headlight relay fixed the Right side? I suspect, there must be some brain, that goes nuts - is it DRL control module? Where is it? Where is the light sensor located, may be it is just dirty, and it cannot decide whether it is night or day? Is this system designed in the way, that when the low-beam bulb goes out, it gets the hi-beam to help? Smart :-) Thanks for all the help and advice. -Michael
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Whenever I turn on the headlights/DRL, sometimes both of them turn on, and sometimes only one - either right or left. So simetimes I am driving with just left light on, sometimes with only the right one, and sometimes - both. WHen both are up - one is brighter than the other. Next time after I shut it down, and start again - they may come up in the sam ecombination, or differently - may be both, may be just one, but not always the same one. Fogs are fine too, always both turn on when turned on. High beams are fine - always both come up. -Michael
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My 02' legacy GT wagon developed intermittent headlights: When they turn on (either as DRL, or as headlights) - someties it is just the left one, or the right one, or sometimes both come up. Once they are up - they stay that way untill the next start. Any ideas where to start looking? Thanks, -Michael
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Had this car since new for about 4 years now, but I only noticed this morning, that there is no cover for the dash space from the bottom on the passanger side. Basically you can see and touch all the internals looking up under the dash. Aren't they supposed to be covered? Surrounding panels seem to have some slots for the fitting of another cover piece. Car was in the shop couple of weeks ago, may be they forgot to put the cover back? Could someone with the 02' Legacy confirm? What about the driver side? Thanks, Michael
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That shop is primarily the body shop, but they are only 2 blocks away, so I'll might pay them a visit first. My insurance paid them well, they made an estimate, and do the repairs themselves, they used all the dealer parts, had car for a week waiting for them, but did not mention any exhaust damage. RE: the fresh air - no problem, none of my cars fit in the garage, so I am stuck with my driveway.... and I'll definitely take a look. -Michael 02' Legacy GT
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FWIW - I had the same situation with my 02' Legacy GT. It happened few weeks after I got new Yokohamas for it from the Tirerack. I've used them for few times, and like the service, I use the shop that is recommended by them, they ship to the shop, I supply the car, and it's done. Of course you want to make sure that the shop is good. The only disadvantage is that it usually take few days, up to a week to get this done. On that occasion I had to get a new tire quickly, and to my surprise - Subaru dealer was the only place around having exactly the same tires in stock, I was prepared to get all 4 replaced, but they measured them,turned out within 1/4'', and I got away with only 1 tire replaced. It did cost a bit more (like 10 or 20 bucks), compared to tirerack, but my wife didn't have to drive in snow storm with the donut.... HTH, YMMV Good luck, -Michael 02' Legacy GT wagon
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I have mentioned this in a different thread about the high-pitch sound it started making when kicking-down the transmission. And couple fo days ago, someone (was it you, or nipper?) has mentioned in that thread, that it might be an exhaust leak, not really related to the transmission. Monday in addition to the high pitch sound at kick-down, it developed a nice, not very loud, but noticeable rumble sound, like the turbos with the 3'' exhaust would. So now - the symptrms are: at low speed, at some resonance rpm it makes a trembling sound like the heatshild would with the spot weld getting loose, when accelerating at about 3rpm it makes nice low rumble as if it had a modified exhaust, and finally when kicking it even more around 4k rpm - it's high pitch, almost screeching sound.... It all started after my wife hit a groundhog on hi-way, and almost all plastic shielding under the body had to be replaced by the body shop. After that it started making all these noises, but I would never think, they might be related. Now I think may be indeed not just the shielding got damaged, but may be some welding seam got cracked, or a gasket shifted. There is no obvious rust on a system, I never suspected exhaust before it started making obviously exhaust-like sounds. I am pretty ignorant with Subarus, and never done any exhaust work myself, so - what would one look for to find were it may be leaking, and the more basic quetion - where is a good spot to put a hydraulic jack to raise the front, and what are the good points for the jack stands. I've never did anything to it beyond the oil and filter changes, and I was using ramps for that. -Thanks for all the advice, -Michael
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As it sounds like my 02' legacy GT wagon developed and exhaust leak at only 76Kmiles, 1) Is there more durable option than the original available for it? Stainless, may be? 2) Besides the dealer, what place would one recomend for this kind of job in the Northern NJ, around Morristown, and west of it? Thanks, -michael
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I've heard, that these machines use excessive pressure, that might break some seals, especially in the older ones. The factory recommended procedure on the older Volvos is to disconnect the line running AT fluid to the cooler, and idle the engine to bleed it out, replacing it thru the dipstick at the same time. Nice and easy, and replaces all of the fluid. Some aftermarket places even sell a hose with the proper fittings to plug into the radiator AT line WOnder if it is possible on Subarus? -Michael