grounded1

All right, I'll crawl out of my coffin now and expose my age with this statement. "street racing gimmick designed for the kiddies" is exactly what they said about NOS in the seventies when it first reared its gimmicky head. Then again gimmick status disappears when it blows by you. Just like NOS did back in the late seventies. I'm just saying watch this technology closley, its not going away. When NOS first came out there were people blowing their induction manifolds literally through their hoods. Sticking relays, dirty nos injectors, ect. It was the most inefficient and unreliable HP gain you could think of. And now look at it. When they start offering the hydraulic driven supercharger in a kit form watch out. These things run off a power steering pump for hydraulic pressure and have no lag. I forget which car manuf. is developing this for a production car but it works and with very little HP stolen to drive it. P

First, nothing will beat the turbo in efficiency and power output. Thats a given. But how many hits does a ten pound nos bottle give. At least the batteries will taper of if held on. Nos for long durations will definitey break something. Unles you've spent thousands beefing up the engine and in that case you probably went turbo (who wouldn't). I don't know... I like the concept of it I guess. Its basic, you don't screw with the exhaust, an extra 50-75 hp at a push of a button(if it works), no nitrous fills, its generic so if I get another car it transfers over. I hope they get it right. I would like something thats push button (and different). Imagine, there will be a day when we see electric funny cars at the track, its coming. Then we can laugh at all the bilge fans, ducted fans and starter motors. Pat

This controversy about the electric supercharger 15 sec duration has peaked my curiosity. For all the turbocharged Subys on this board. What was the longest duration you have ever kept a max boost output. Duration/max psi. I know there are variables in between. If you want you can give a range like 20 sec/7-10psi. Or what ever you like. If want to add mph to it go ahead. I think this would be interesting for all. Pat Grounded1

No, that wasn't the one at the sight I went to. If you blow up the pictures on the sight you can see that the supercharger is definitely a roots type. Its driven by three motors that resemble three chevy starter motors. No doubt that it draws a lot of power. The question is does it really put out the boost numbers it claims. Thats all that really matters. If it can move 400cfm at 7 to 20 psi then at least the claim is true. Whether someone wants to put a row of batteries in their trunk to support it is another story. As for the 15 sec duration and battery recovery, heck..I only have to kick another cars rump roast once to prove a point in a race. Knight has a full page add in Sport Compact Car for the elec. superchr. Lets see how the mainstream reacts to it. There may even be an article about it. I don't remember seeing the ol' bilge fan in a full page add in SCC. Time will tell if its a hoax or real. The numbers won't lie when a third party evals it. We'll see... Pat

If I drop a turbo kit or supercharger kit in my Sube I guess the same rule applies. I guess its out of the question to do any fast moves with a 180 pound buddy in the passenger seat. Depends how you look at it I guess. Its all fun and games until one of these electric things proves it works. This might be the one. Wait and see. It wasn't that long a go that 4 bangers were a joke and look at them now! P

I know the Subaru bunch are mostly diehard turbocharger guys but this is really cool. http://www.boosthead.com/product.php

Thats pretty interesting. Can you see the timing change if you checked it with a timing light and dialed around? I have a friend with a 91 Jeep Cherokee that has the same resistor dial up in place of his coolant temp sensor. He tows his boat around and during tow he dials up a cold temp to the engine goes max rich and keeps cool. At idle you can actually hear the rpm change while dialing in different resistance settings. THanks for the info. Pat

I'd like to hear some more rambling too. And please...some wiring diagrams... Pat

Got some answers finally. Semi official sort of. Bumped into a friend of mine with a solid connection with North Coast Subaru in Long Island. The story is that all the EJ22's are interchangeable with the exception of some electrical harness configurations. The blocks all interchange. Since I would swap my electrical over to the new engine this is no problem. Yeah baby! The guy there also stated that the EJ25's are also interchangeable minus the electrical differences from model to model. Thats good to know too. Either way it's time to give the ol' wagon some attitude! Thanks for all the help guys. Pat .....................................................................................

I have the serial number of the engine (024132). I have to try to find out if I can determine what year this engine is. So far the engine looks identical to mine. Tomorrow I'm going to see what the part numbers of the electrical components are. I might be able to cross them with the Suby parts book and get an idea of the year. Does anyone know if all the EJ22's have open decks or was there a year they went to closed deck. I know the 2.5 did. I'm going to start tearing it down in the mean time. Pat:cornfuzz:

A question for the Subermen. Are all EJ22 SOHC n/a engines interchangeble. EJ22 seems to the same up to 96 and then there is another engine ID number for another ej22. Basically I'm asking because I've come into possesion of a pretty decent EJ22. It is SOHC, naturally aspirated and to my eye the same as in my 91 Legacy. I just wondered if there were bolt pattern differences to the tranny or any other incompatibility before I tear it down and start doing a rebuild. I have to get the ID numbers off of it to determine the year. Even then I have to find out if it's useable for my 91'. If it is useable I plan on a hell of a rebuild. Any help with the compatibility info will be appreciated. Fingers Crossed, Pat

- 32C? Wow! Thanks for the info guys. I was just so use to it starting after the second rev in the teens it threw me curve when it needed some extra cranking. - 32C ?! What kind of oil do you use?? Pat

A question for all the subes operated in colder climates. We in NYC just had a couple of 2 degree days. My 91 Legacy took a couple of tries to get started with the successful start being the one that a gave a little throttle to during the crank. It did the same thing the next 2 degree day we had. I'm not concerned in the least but I wondered if this is a typical start for that temp day. I have a recent tune up and my climate controls outside temp always matches the actual temp within a couple degrees so the ecu is seeing the real deal. Just curious about the colder operating subes. Am I back in the carb days or is this an EJ22 cold weather response. It only seems to happen on single digit temp days. Pat

I know a mechanic that does quite a bit of Subaru work. I asked him the same question about the holding tools. What he does is when the car is on the ground, he uses a long breaker bar with a socket on the gear bolt he's breaking and with the breaker bar handle touching the ground he taps the starter and the bolt loosens. You just have to get the geometry and rotation right before you tap the starter. According to him a tap of the starter is all it takes. For what its worth. pat

The Autometer air/fuel gage is a 3 wire hook up. 12v, ground and sense wire that connects to the output of the O2 sensor. It connects to the output wire of the O2 sensor. That is the one that only puts out 0 - 1volt max. I assume the kit works the same but there is very little information about it. Be careful. Thats why i just bought one. Pat

I hear you Colin. I'm going to look for it today. I still have to admit that even with the problem the new injectors have made a noticable difference. I was talking to a couple of Jeep Cherokee people. For Jeeps there are air/oil separator kits for the pvc breather hose to cut down on the oil vapor entering the intake system and thereby reducing the carbon deposits on the valves. I'm surprised that these kits haven't surfaced for the boxer. Especially since the boxer has a rep for being a heavy breather. Well, off on the sea foam hunt. Pat

This air fuel meter has to operate like the over the counter types. All it is, is a led meter that reads up to 1 volt. The Autometer gage reads up to 1 volt in .05 volt increments. That is why it has 20 leds. That adds up to 1.0. The meter on this plan has ten leds so each increment will be a tenth of a volt (.10) The closer to 1 volt the richer the mixture. As for calibration, according to the subaru service manual the range of the O2 sensor is .2 volts to .7 volts. The adjustment pots on this homemade job just set the range. You could probably do it by eye so that at the richest WOT it peaks the red leds. Same for lean at opposite side of the led scale. The Autometer air fuel gage I have in my car never goes to the factory full rich because the suby set up never hits 1 volt for full rich. So I'm always a couple led's short but I know its full rich for my setup. This homemade job at least can be tailored to any vehicle. I'll bet the parts to build it are a fraction of the price of an after market gage. Pat

I never saw the pictures. Do you have a link to them or have they been taken down? Pat

Colin, Is there any other name for SA/459. I can't seem to locate it. Who make this product. Pat

Hey Josh How did you make out with the Sea Foam treatment? Any side effects? Positive or Negative... Pat :cornfuzz:

1LT, I'm at that point now. I'm going to do a compression check now. I can get a boroscope and check for the valve carbon build up. I've read this before on the board. It's hard to believe that two intake valves(per cyl) can carbon up to the point of a performance loss but I've learned not to ignore to much from this board. I will check it. Thanks. Colin, any after effects of running that stuff through your fuel other than the problem is gone? Pat

I still have the problem. The car ran great for a while and then the problem slowly came back. Maybe the computer had to relearn itself. In any event the problem came back. I've since replaced the forward exhaust system. The aft cat looked very clean. I have performed every sensor check the that the subaru/haynes/chilton manuals have come up with. They are all ok. I have never gotten any codes at all. If you take this as a truth, then my problem is not a sensor. Since this began a year ago I have changed the following: mass airflow sensor coolant temp sensor ignition coil oxygen sensor knock sensor plugs wires fuel filter air filter pvc valve and yesterday all 4 injectors. No help. I installed a vacuum gage, air fuel meter and an fuel pressure gage to monitor the engine. The fuel pressures are ok and never change all through the problem. The fuel air meter doesn't show anything unusual although it takes a lot to get that computer to go rich. I have performed a duty cycle check on each injector prior to replacing them and it was fine. I thought that maybe the injectors were malfunctioning mechanically but ok electrically (no codes). I plugged the purge valve vacuum line to rule out a leak there also. The problem is when you go up a steep grade. When demanding power the engine will bog down. If you continue the demand it will stall. If you catch it early (like I have been) and pull over fast, throw it in park the engine seems to be idling on 1 or 2 cylinders . If you rev it up it is smooth and revs as high as you like. Back at idle it shudders on 1 or 2 cylinders. If you let it idle it will eventually clear and off you go. If you run it to total stall I have to turn off the ignition and then restart. I can't restart by just going to start from ignition after the stall. You have to go to off. Where am I now. The only things left in the system are the muffler which may be causing some kind of blockage/back pressure during a high power demand. It did run great for a week after I chopped tha cat. The speed sensor on the speedometer my be skipping a few beats . Not enough to give a code but maybe enough to give the computer a false speed reference or the ecu computer itself When I had the injectors out I could see my intake valve stems and they were all clean so I don't think valve mechanical problems. The vacuum gage would have showed me if I had a vacuum leak but at Idle its got 19-20 in. vac. and thats fine. My car is a 91 wagon ls so I didn't mind spending on the sensors. THey've been in there a long time and I need to trust the car on long trips. The injectors did piss me off. I had to pull the fuel rails off to remove the old ones and they didn't fix the problem. What else is left the igniter unit? I doubt it. It doesn't know engine load just firing the coil when it's told to by the ecu. When the problem occurs the rpm means nothing. 2nd 3rd,4th gears, 2500, 3000, 4000 rpm makes no difference. The load does it. Level/low grade no problem. Up a steep grade forget it. I also inspected the fuel pump for any blockages at the screen even though the fuel pressures are ok...nothing. Advice, don't change any sensors if they are not faulted by a code. In the subaru service manual almost every sensor can cause drivability problems or stall. Thanks a lot. This goes beyond that. On interesting note for us suby heads, when I changed my injectors the hesitation skip I use to get between 3800-4000 is gone. So much for the Hobie Fix. The car did run noticably better after the injectors. I was impressed. The car actually shifted cleaner and faster right up till it ran like s#@t. I might take it to a suby dealer to check but they all don't have select monitors. Keep the Suby faith,we'll figure this out. Oh yeah, I did do the D check and drive it to stall. No codes. FYI...NO CODES. Next chapter soon...... Pat Grounded1 91 Legacy Wagon LS ps: kill me :temper: