pos009

Hi all, i've been harvesting the knowledge of this forum for a couple of years now with a ton of info on every problem i've had with my 84 GL 4wd wagon so far. but i can't find any searchables on my squeaky brake pedal. it sounds like the door hinge on a haunted house- noise made when both pushing down and coming up. i've learned to tune it out for the most part, but when i'm stuck in traffic... the in-and-out squeeeek and squeaaaaak can get a guy thinking about 'all work and no play make jack something something..." when i got down with my flashlight and WD-40 to squash the bug, i could find nothing of consequence that was causing it!! anyone else heard this noise, and have a lube point for me?? Thanks!!

Turns out they do make 'em still! Part number 623205010 for anyone who cares. Dealer will have one tomorrow for me at the bargain discount price of $11.72 for a little piece of wire... () that's why they're called 'dealers', I guess. Online for about 5 bucks- but then S&H started at 9.95... not a tough choice.

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... so that's why they call it 'asking for help', eh? thanks a bunch! i'll be on the horn for that clip in the morn, and let ya'll know the (hopefully) good news soon!

all sounds well and good. i'm off to market with a shopping list of stainless steel clamps (what, 3" or 4"?) and a CV joint retaining ring. i'm guessing dealer will stock these, or can get at least order one reasonably quickly. any Seattle-specific suggestions from anyone in the neighborhood? one more thing, though, from GD's post: You still have to remove the top (strut) and bottom (ball joint) of the knuckle, right? That's is how i've been doing it, and leaving the steering linkage alone, but just want to make sure there's not some big shortcut I'm missing.

Don't know if it's pertinent, but just remembered this tidbit: My manual shows a clip-ring on the inside of the joint housing, but there wasn't one when I opened the joint. It didn't seem like a problem- the bearing assembly is quite deep in the pocket, when installed, and I haven't replaced it. But I thought I would mention, just in case someone thinks it is a problem I've overlooked. :-\ Thanks!

thanks for the replies- see below for comments/questions From kayakertom: >I added a small heat shield made of thicker guage sheet metal - used the flange where the heat riser connects as my attaching point. My heat shield has a couple of small bends to curve around the boot for maximum clearance. I'm not sure I understand- is there a heat problem from the cat or exhaust there that's making my boot leak? From Calebz: >Replace axles, not boots.. A little more money. Less work. My time is important enough to me that I don't want to have to do it 3 times for the sake of saving a few bucks. yea- i definitely understand the time/money thing, and i've put more than an appropriate amount of time in on this one, in order to keep the cost in the $20 range... but if i'm in the $200 range for an axle, i could just take it in and have someone do the boot right. that's even less of my time, and i think i would need a shop to press off/on the outer joint, anyway, if i bought an axle? follow-up questions: rebuilt vs. new? vendors? (Seattle,WA area) From GeneralDisorder: >Go to home depot and get some stainless steel hose clamps. That's what I use on all my off-road axles. They never leak on me. You don't have to remove the axle either - just dissasemble the inner joint after you pull it off the trans and do it with the axle still in the knuckle. This sounds like my kind of fix... if it works, which you say it does! right along the lines of my Ultra-Black, but with metal. It sounds like you're recommending that I pull the axle out of the tranny again, though. is there a reason i couldn't just cut off the current clips and slap hose clamps on while the axle is assembled? grease on in the rubber/metal interface? Oh yes, and it is indeed a DL wagon, '84, 4WD, EA81 motor, I believe. Thanks!

so i have leaky-CV boot syndrome, apparently. short synopsis of events leading to frustration-post: 1- notice hole in front inner CV boot (passenger side). 2- buy replacement boot and install with funky-clips that came with boot kit (pinch-style, and I installed by crimping with diagonal pliers...) 3- boot leaks grease- sprays catalytic and surrounding body with cool splatte pattern 4- buy fold-over style clips and tool to tighten them with 5- install clips without cleaning off old grease from sealing surfaces 6- see 3. 7- buy another set of clips, and chanting "3rd times a charm", remove axle for the 3rd time. clean off old grease, seal up clips on clean surfaces and fresh grease in boot- reinstall. 8- see 3. grrr. 9- foment, contemplate wiping off leaky spots and sealing with RTV Ultra-black (one of my favorite things). 10- walk away, wash hands, post here. anyone have suggestions? thoughts? should i bow down to a professional and take it into a shop? Thanks!!

Thanks for the tips! i'm back after a weekend of the planned and impromptu repairs... while snooping around the EGR and carb looking for loose lines, and melted chunks, i noticed that funny smell i couldn't pin down (not electrical, not exhaust, not gas...) was CV grease on the cat. SOoooo, a new inner boot this weekend, to boot! That was fun! I think I plugged a few leaks in the dyke for now... the poor girl was falling into serious disrepair: - new coil and wires (had arcing between coil wire and both posts) - new PCV hose (was a leaker, too) - new connector hose from EGR to that metal pipe that then leads around driver-side strut - new inner boot. Took a test drive, and all was peachy. Power was back, and she's running tip-top as I go over to wongleflute's for a buger & shake to celebrate. All was well in camelot. But then- the hesitation again. Happens sporadically between 2500-3500 usually, and only when I'm half-gas (primary)- pushing through to secondary clears the throat, so to speak. If I don't push down to secondary to clear it, or change gears to drop the RPM, it will eventually make the car really buck. If I do have chunks in my carb, would it be so sporadic? Letting it warm up properly definitely helps, but even when it's warm, and I restart, it can switch from normal to hesitant. Is there another vac leak I missed? Also, when the silencer blew, I put two loose vac lines together, as the T-connector had melted. Looked like it was a straight connection, and not like I was crossing a circuit, but now I'm wondering if there was something I missed... Any and all help appreciated, -Sam PS- Just remembered I read another quarter-user put his quarters at the bottom of the pipe near the manifold- I put mine up top where they connect to the reed-valve pump bodies. Want to just make sure this doesn't matter: if they're plugged, they're plugged, right?

thanks, guys. i'll see what i can see in the carb, and start isolating and repairing the leaks as i can...

So a little while ago, my the silencer on the driver-side air suction valve had a meltdown. After about 5 minutes' research on this board, I found the ol' quarter trick mentioned, and plugged mine up. Car ran, but really rough, until I finally got around to plugging up the other side. Now she's a smooth idler and runner, but I feel like I've dropped about 30% of my power in the low RPMs. I really have to gun it to get started on a hill, and the clutch is starting to shudder a little, even (maybe due wear from these hard starts). FYI, I did notice a bolt missing on one of my exhaust pipe flanges during all this... so minor exhaust leaks are at play too. Does such a thing ring any bells? Power loss after the 50cent fix? Should I try to repair the reed valve (the whole thing fell apart sometime after the meltdown) and replace the silencer properly? Am I missing something else? Thanks for any tips! OH!- and recommendations for pick-a-parts or Subie parts places (besides Carter) in the Seattle area would be MUCH appreciated! (Is the Jason of Auburn Subie fame from Auburn, WA?) 84 GLSW 4WD -Sam

Just test drove an '06 impreza, too, complete with howl intact. Unacceptable, in fact, and the dealer just said "the Sports all do that".... with some mumbo-jumbo about car weight compared to the bigger OB...

Thanks for the tips, guys! I'll get some flush on the way home tonight, and let you know how it turns out. -S

I like your idea of checking the hose temps going into the core to see if the flow is flowing. I assume if flushes don't work, a new heater core is in order? :-\

Any ideas as to why the heater in my '84 4wd GL only stays hot for a minute or so after turning on the fan?? It starts hot, then peters out after a minute or so... same thing happens in B/L, Vent and "Max A/C". (Car is non-A/C equipped, but this setting blasts air nonetheless.) If I turn off the fan and then back on a few minutes later, it's warm again, but then the cycle repeats...

So I took some advice and got some gunk out of the wagon tonight: PCV was gunky but moved (replaced) EGR carbon-coated, but moved (cleaned) Fuel filters looked OK (replaced both) Seafoam into carb... lots of smoky goodness out of the tail pipe! Seems to be runny MUCH smoother- got it up to 5K rpm up a hill with no boggin! Tomorrow will confirm that all'swell on the freeway onramp! Thanks for your help! -Sam