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rainbow123

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  1. the belt for my 93 impreza is $70 from dealer and $50+ship from 1stsubaruparts, but $16 from ebay this morning: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-SUBARU-OUTBACK-LEGACY-IMPREZA-NEW-TIMING-BELT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8012443942QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW it's made by Flennor, a German firm and is made in Germany or UK, also i searched for the name DynaGear printed on the box and came up with this old thread about the seller: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5097 i think OEM is good of course, but based on past user experiences and the price, i think you can get equal performance for less, just my 2 cents for what it's worth
  2. they have different part numbers for CA and non-CA here http://www.mvreader.com/cgi-bin/multiview/dayco.cgi?autoCatalogSearch=1&l=n&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&year=1998&engine=A2E but the spec are the same, any difference between the two, can i use them interchangably? thanks
  3. thank you for all the tips, it's been great learning from you guys i am in bay area, but the impreza originated in Vermont/ NY area until 2003, so there are a lot of surface rusts in the engine bay, not only i broke the bolt, i had a hard time taking off the old-style (not stainless steel) radiator clamps so i just sniped them off actually after i broke the bolt, i went to Kragen and got a thermostat, went home and boiled the new and the old one, both opened at the the same time, so i kind of ruled out the thermostat there, next i put back the thermostat housing with one bolt and held the other end with a vise grip, started the engine idling and again no heat from the heater even without thermostat, barring a clogged heater, it indicated the coolant was not flowing so right there i suspected the water pump not doing its job, it's not the radiator because the heater would still blow hot, it's not head gasket because if it were the HG the heater would still blow hot air (unless heater is clogged), i had no coolant leak and the heater air was not even warm, so i spent the whole afternoon getting to the water pump, it turned out it was seized, i could not turn it with my bare hand, now i have couple of questions: 1) how do you push the tension adjustor rod ? Legacy777's manual says you need a press, i don't have a press, how you guys do it? i have a vise, but the manual says no vise 2) how do you torque the crank pulley nut to some 120 ft/lb? 3) i hope i have solved the overheat problem, but is the head gasket damaged by any chance? it was staying at the redline for no more than 10 seconds before i pulled over and shut off engine in several occasions as i was trying to reach my destination couple days ago thanks again
  4. just took out the thermostat, and broke one of the 10mm bolts, any body has extracted this before, it seems pretty small, last time i tried drilling on such small bolt i ended up damaging the metal threads surrounding the bolt
  5. hi, i posted another day about my overheating engine, put in simply, it idles fine, but won't go more than 1/2 mile before temp gauge climbs to top i had car towed back home yesterday, and turned on heater full blast while it overheats, there is no heat!! there is no loss of coolant, i can not spot any leaks, and there is no water in engine oil, so i rule out any leaks or head gasket problem, top radiator hose does not feel very hot even though it is overheating on the temp guage my question: is the thermosat in the heater loop? i am trying to isolate if this is a water pump problem or a stuck thermosat
  6. i have the same low idle problem, although it's normal climate here in no.cal, every morning after driving the first 2 miles or so and stop at a light, it momentarily goes down to about 200-300, normal idle would only amount to 400-500, i don't bother with it it never stalls or shakes or anything i also have the heat shield loose, last time i looked at it switching the halfshaft but it wasn't going anywhere so i never bothered with it
  7. WOW!! the pictures are up already, they look fantanstic, look so clear, thanks so much!!
  8. thanks for your reply, Legacy777 and sorry about the name, yeah i can wait no problem, this timing belt job will probably take me couple of weeks to do on the weekends, hope i don't run into any unexpected problems
  9. how about EJ18, is it deemed as little brother of EJ22, so equally reliable just less power? i bought it after reading reviews saying it's almost indestructible, don't know if it's really true
  10. i just read the pdf, it helps a lot, thanks so much but Legend777's links are no longer good, i really want to see some diagrams, any where else can i see them ? thanks
  11. i called several places for my 93 impreza, they all quote higher than honda, toyota timing belt jobs, one place even said $550 because he said there are two belts, another said it costs because it a subaru after some reading from the PDF, i know 93 has only one belt, and it seems to be pretty straightforward, but the PDF recommends taking out the fans and radiator, i want to keep things simple, is the job possible without removing the radiator?
  12. I have a 93 subaru impreza with 120,000 miles, was driving on a stretch of highway yesterday and suddeningly i heard a continous high-pitched whining noise, i kept driving for 1 mile or so, then temp needle rised very quickly from midline to top in about 10 seconds, i immediately pulled over and shut down the engine. After a bit cooldown, i took off radiator cap and see full level of coolant. I restarted and the car idles with temp needle in mid-line. But if i rev it to maybe 2000 RPM for 40 seconds, the needle would rapidly rise again. All the while there is that continous whining from the engine. The belt seems to be tight, there is no leak and all the coolant is still there. There is no prior warning before this sudden onset of whining noise. Is my water pump shot? any body has experience with this whining noise typical of their subaru water pump failing? but why is that when i idle the temp is ok and only overheats when i rev it up? the car is currently 20 miles away, i would like to drive it home without having to pay for towing if possible thanks for your help guys
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