john in KY
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Posts posted by john in KY
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On 4/4/2021 at 10:20 AM, jonathan909 said:
Assembled '01 Forester's EJ25. Because that car's down, my daughter had taken the '99 OBW to work, leaving me to use the '98 Legacy wagon (that's next on the repair list because the exhaust is loud) to go fetch the package from Rock that I needed . This extra juggling is taking place because my now-daily-driver '01 H6 OBW's brakes recently made a nasty noise and I don't want them getting worse... once it gets its turn in the garage I'll also be replacing the gas tank - when I started driving it last summer it didn't take long to discover that the PO had put a big whompin' dent in the tank, precisely under the float, so the gauge sticks at about 1/3 right up until the car stops (and while it's in there I need to pull the stereo and figure out why the CD isn't working, plus make the key fob locks work). Thought about the other '01 H6 OBW that'll be getting HGs this summer. Didn't think about the '95 Legacy wagon. I think that about covers it...
Had a dent in a Mustang once. Used compressed air and it popped out.
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Fuel pump? If still original. it's what, 30 years old?
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Once again I am stumped when it comes to unplugging components. This particular ECU has an about 2-4 inch "lever" above the plug, which appears to be one gigantic connector, with an arrow imprinted on it. I failed to get the lever to move and am at a lose how to unplug the ECU. I assume any ECU from 95 through 99 will exchange.
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08 has 4. Replaced the front ones but any tricks on how to remove the rear 2? Just can't get a wrench up there. Thinking about just dropping the exhaust.
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Swapped out the crank sensor, went for a 10 mile test ride, and no stalling. Have fingers crossed and tomorrow will take it on a 60 mile trip to Lowes. But the wife has finally convinced me to find something newer so will be hitting Craigslist daily.
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Having the same problem with my 95. Engine was replaced a few years ago. Current mileage probably around 160K. Have done much of the above. Problem now better but engine still stalls when stopped at a stop sign. For some reason the Hot ATF always flashes a few times when it stalls. Beginning to wonder if maybe the TC lock up function could be the problem.
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Just learned from a reliable source there are a total of 4 sensors. Problem solved.
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Checked some diagrams that show 3. Looked under car and see only 2 in the manifold pipes. Replaced the midsection exhaust pipe a few years back and don't recall a downstream sensor. Haven't crawled yet under the car, just had my second virus vaccination and am sore all over, but will in a day or two. If only 2, which is the upstream and downstream?
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Would replacing your bracket with the one on the junkyard engine solve this problem?
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I notice that when I am going uphill, that's when the struggling starts, I have to wait, keep the pedal on and wait until it "clears." Another thing is that this happens under load, when I have the car on idle, parked and I depressed the gas pedal, it runs fine, in other occasions it sputters a bit but generally runs smooth. However, when I actually drive it and I have to go uphill, bam! It won't go smoothly, stalls, boggs and only after a while it clears.
Sounds silly but try BACKING up that hill and notice if anything changes.
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I doubt that will change anything. My thought is the waste gate controller is not "seeing" enough vacuum.
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Is there anything that looks like an old Mopar ballast resistor over by the air filter? I can't recall if it was the XT or XT6 that used it but am sure one of them for sure.
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I replaced that cradle a few years ago. Removing those bolts that bolt the cradle to the frame required a 4 foot cheater bar. The engine swap will be much easier.
Was under the impression the swap was between 2 H6 vehicles.
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Been 30 years but just thinking the early XTs had some sort of "resistor" over on the passenger side of the engine bay that was part of the injector wiring.
I would as a test determine which wire at 4 is the ground side and wire it to ground.
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As a means of a test @john in KY could I connect a wire from injectorr #3 to #4
I can't see why not.
Appears that somehow injector 4 is not allowing the other 3 injectors not to fire by "taking away the ground".
Use a test light probe and see if 4 fires when cranking the engine.
When I had the car running on 3 cylinders, as soon as I plugged harness #4, the car died immediately.
Sounds to me somehow injector 4 is somehow back feeding 12 volts in the wiring harness.
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Just from memory the injectors are "paired". 1 and 2 fire at the same time and ditto for 3 and 4. The wiring for 3 and 4 heading back to the ECU are spliced together some where in the cabin under the carpet. If 3 is firing and 4 isn't, the problem has to be somewhere between the splice and the injector.
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The injectors are most likely now not passing any fuel and need to be removed and cleaned. Same for the fuel filter. Engine will never start on 20 year old fuel.
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I rarely ever cut standing trees anymore. Had a few close calls and decided the heck with that. That white oak in the photo came from an old estate in town. House/mansion was built in I believe 1803 and my guess is that white oak, rare around here, was at least 200 years old. The butt log is still there. Probably 8 feet in diameter and none of my saws could touch it and what would I do with rounds that big?
A pro level chainsaw will last most folks a lifetime. I still use a Sachs Dolmar 117 I bought in 1986 that has cut around 200 cords of firewood. If I ever run across a Sachs 133, I'm buying it.
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I can't speak badly about the 3.0. I checked the PCV valve and it was completely clogged. I wonder if that caused that one O ring fail? Taking everything apart is not the end of the world but keeping track of all the bolts and not knowing the torque sequence and settings had me chain smoking. I have a thing for cats. Once had 30 when I rented a farm house. I bought cat food in 50 pound sacks. Guy at the feed mill thought I was raising cats. Currently we have one cat but I feed 2 at the local nursing home, one that shows up most nights and 4 to 6 at the garage where I worked on the car. I just like animals. Probably being raised on a dairy farm explains why. Most folks find the smell of an old cow barn or horse stable offensive but those smells just take me back in time. My grandfather actually farmed with 2 horses. Never owned a tractor or vehicle. Tough old bird. But enough of this.
As for cutting firewood, haven't used it in 30 years. Just sell it which keeps me in chainsaws. Have 6 currently. Just bought an old Still 045. 75 cc. Replaced the short bar with a 28 inch bar and will see how it cuts tomorrow. Those oak trees don't have prayer.
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Engine all back together with no leaks. I never want to tackle this problem again. Big thank you to all the aided me.
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5 hours ago, Rampage said:
On November 19 I posted a pdf file for the outer cover. Here is the Inner cover. Bolt length, location and torque sequence.
Got it. Took a while to learn how to open that pdf. Thank you very much. My stress level went down several magnitudes.
Yesterday I just went out in the woods and cut a cord or slightly more of firewood just to get away from that car for a few hours.
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Lacking parts should arrive today or tomorrow.
Still looking for the bolt tightening diagram for the inner and outer cover.
Would be nice if a Subaru tech could provide this info.
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Got it all apart today. The O ring for the lower tensioner on the left side had failed. Had ordered parts a few days ago all what we needed. Instead of a water pump, dealer shipped an oil pump and one O ring was the wrong side so we are in a holding pattern until those items arrive.
I need a break from this anyways.
Hope everyone has a decent T-day.
Rear Hub/Bearing Replacement
in Crosstrek "XV"
Posted
Thread in 2 longer bolts and whack them with a hammer and it'll come out. Just did both rears this way.