foxgap

I am looking for my parts for the Duty C replacement project and came across this place. Prices are not bad, the dealer in Stroudsburg wants $170.00 just for the seleniod alone, plus he is being told that there are 2 $40.00 wireing harnesses that need to go with the part. I am now totally confused by what he is telling me. Any suggestions people? Mark

Good day today, I guess. The fluid and filter has been changed, the pan had some stuff in it but not nearly as bad as some I have seen so that is a plus. We OHMed the Duty C and it is bad. The wire we used was the black with a yellow tracer cause this is the one that Shopsmith said was the one that went to it. They call it an AWD Seliniod. Gonna order the Duty C and when it comes in back the car goes up again to get that installed. Does anyone know if Rock Auto still sells the Soob Duty C? The last post I heard about this was 2011. Thanks, Mark

We put a bottle of trans cleaner in the car last night, Friday it gets emptyed and new filters installed. Could be the fix...... More on Friday after the work is done and the Duty C is OHMed.

Fantastic!! will try these before cracking into the case. Going to order the Duty C on Monday and ask questions about the drum and clutches price.

Lots of stuff to check on!!!!! The car goes to the repair shop next week and the mechanic thanks you all already for the great points you have made. He wants to do this right the first time and not have to tie up his lift for too long. I am still hoping for something simple....... Mark

I am hoping the solenoid is stuck open right now, I guess we will not know that until we OHM it or take it out. The shop I am taking it to wants to do as much checking as possible before he puts it on the lift and starts tearing into it. He has been starting to get more and more older Soobs and likes the challenge of solving the problems. Hence all the questions from me to you all. Dave, you say there are problems that could cause a no AWD condition, could you list a few and I can check on those also? Thanks again, Mark

Thanks!! Just what we need. Now I have read about the possiblity of the shaft on the clutch pack getting scored. If this has happened, and I hope not, is this a replaceable part or a bone yard find? I did check for torque bind on Sunday and found there is none. I also checked to see if I had AWD and there is none also. I stopped the car on a hill while it was raining and gave it some gas to get the front wheels turning and nothing but the front spun. Thanks again from an AUTO trans newbie, Mark

So does anyone think that the clutch pack will be bad also? Car has no torque bind that I can notice. Opinions?

I was told to OHM the duty c also to determine if it is any good before we take the housing off. 0 Ohms means no good?

I took the 95 Legacy to a good Subaru shop (Weddes Auto) and had them pull the codes out of the trans cause the trans light flashes 16 times on start up. Chris said that the code in the trans history is for the Duty C. This will probably explain why the car seems like it is in FWD only most of the time. I have put the fuse in the under hood holder and there seems like no difference in the way the car runs with the fuse in or out. The question is, with the duty c being bad will the clutch pack be shot also? The trans fluid is clear but will be changed along with the filters at the same time the tail housing is removed. I always thought there was a problem with this trans because the manual trans cars we had before this first auto were always AWD animals and this one got stuck in the snow all the time. With 4 snow tires on it yet. Any help will be appreciated! Mark

Thanks guys, so I am getting smoke blown up my butt by this guy. Now I must get those codes out of the trans computer so I can get piece of mind.

Well maybe that is not how it is spelled, but I hope you all know what I mean. A person who claims to have owned and sold a ton of Soobs suggested today that the reason our Legacy does not perform in the snow as well as the previous cars is that this part in the trans is going bad. He told me all Legacys are split 60/40. Ours seems like it it just about all front wheel. I put the fuse in one time and tried it and it pretty much seemed the same as without the fuse. Mind you, this is the first automatic Soob we have ever owned and I could be wrong about a lot of stuff concerning these trans. The trans does have a code in it, the 16 flash type and I am going to try to retrieve it this week sometime. Will the coupler throw a code? Is this a part that can be serviced or if it is bad do I have to go looking for another trans? The speedo does act funny also, when pulling up to a stop the needle will slowly drop to about 10mph, then jump to 30 bounce down to 15 and then bounce back up again, then to zero when the car is stopped. I thought this could be the code and the last time I was in a salvage yard got a spare speed sensor. I have not installed it yet. Your comments?

Just got done doing this to my 95. We used the 07 Forester struts, the spacers from a 96 Outback and the A arms from the Outback. Took it in for alignment today and the front went fine but we will have to take it back for the rear. The holes for the struts will have to be elongated a bit to get a perfect 4 wheel alignment. Looks mean as hell in the driveway.

just curious, cause we are looking for a new Soob, did the first dealership start with a C and was in A-------town?

That is what we thought also, another PITA we did not want to get into. The 15 min it took to fab up a new coupler was worth it. We also noticed that the racks had different lengths on their shafts.

All, A few months ago I posted questions about clicking noises in our lifted Legacy. It was lifted with 07 Forester struts and right from the get go it had this clicking noise in the front axles. Some thought it was the diff, others thought it was bad remaned axles. I did get a post from one gent that suggested that it was the angle of the axles and to cure the problem I would need to get the 1" blocks that fit between the frame and crossmember, the bolts that hold those blocks in place, the pivots on the A frames and the steering coupler from a 96 thru 99 Outback. I just happen to have a 96 Outback in the backyard that has a bad 5 speed and TONS of rot on it. Now that the snow is gone and I can get to it I drove it and the 95 up to my friends shop last night and we started switching parts around from car to car. Everything went pretty well today and I was driving the 95 around without any clicking noises by 3:00pm. Horahhh. Minor problems did crop up though..... The most major problem was the steering coupler. This we had to fabricate to make it work. I don't know about some of the newer Outbacks but the steering coupler from the 96 Outback was to long for the 95 and of course the one from the 95 was to short. What we did was cut and fab a shaft the correct length from the 95. Mig welded it together and now it fits perfect. It was doing it this way or changing the rack, which looked like another PITA altogether. The pivots were very easy, just swap the entire A frame from the Outback to the 95 and yes the pivots are different thicknesses. Putting the blocks in was the easiest, loosen the nuts on the bolts and lower the crossmember down while pulling the bolts out the top after removing the airbox and washer jug. For some reason they put a phillips screw in the sheet metal holding the bolts to the frame, but they got lost in the transfer of parts and did not go back on. I think that before I drive the car a lot with the good summer tires on it I will have an alingment done on it just to be on the safe side. Would I do this swap again? Sure, just need to do the correct part swap in the beginning the next time. Maybe to a newer Legacy if one comes by. But there are so many Outbacks out there that it just does not seem practical. We did the 95 cause it had a ton of options and it came cheap with the 2.2. Thanks for all the help everyone, Mark

Thanks, Are they bolts or studs threaded into a nut on top of the frame rail? If they are bolts the job should be a snap. Studs may need a heat wrench to loosen them up to wind them out. I also have to put the Outback back together after harvesting the correct parts so I can move it around for a little while. Not roadworthy, just to get it about a mile from the repair shop to my backyard again.

All, What I have is a 95 Legacy LS lifted with 07 Forester struts. I have a clicking noise in the left axle that no matter what axles I have put in it will not go away. Have not tried a set of factory green axles yet, I am still trying to find a set. The guys over in the modern Soob section of this forum suggested I get a set of A arm pivots from a 96-99 Outback. I have a junk 96 Outback in the yard and yesterday started to look for these parts, I cannot find what I would think they look like. What I did find was 1" spacers between the cross member and frame. What I assume are the pivots are the same as on my 95. Mind you my Outback is a real early 96, 11/95 build. This is looking like a real PITA to get these spacers in my 95, longer studs for the brackets and I would imagine new motor mounts also. Has anyone done this lift and had similar problems? I understand from the previous owner who is a Soob mechanic that this is a popular swap and really has no problems with it any other time. I really like the height of the car and would like to keep the struts under it. Just got to get the angle of the axles correct. Suggestions or comments? Thanks, Mark

Ah well, back goes the diff/trans set up and I will let the yard know what it will fit, not my car. The concensus is that the trans pictured is a phase 2 trans from a 99. Good news about the parts on the Outback, as soon as it stops snowing around here and I can get to the car I will bring it up and start parting it out. In the meantime, can we drive the 95 without wrecking something expensive on it? Like I said before as soon as the CV grease warms up the noise pretty much goes away. I will also start looking for original Subaru axles with the green shells that I can reboot for just in case. Thanks again everyone, Mark

Has anyone looked at the pics of the diff and trans? If it is the wrong one, I need to know so I can return it. Thanks, Mark

These parts I will add to the car and leave the 07 struts on, correct?

Wow, I have all that stuff on the 96 Outback in the back yard. Now, what will happen to the diff if I do not get to it right away. Or will the axles just go to crap? There is about 3 feet of snow on top of that car right now. Can we safely drive this thing?

Ok , gonna try to send 2 pics....

There are 2007 Forester struts under it the previous owner had installed. He is mechanic on the car and I had asked about the angle of the axles when the first one went bad. He states he has not had a problem doing this swap. I don't know......