stevecd

The mityvac for me seemed more trouble then what its worth, its hard to get a good seal and so little air bubbles appear while trying to pump out the break fluid and it didn't seem to work very good since its hard to get enough suction. i did find it easy to use but not to work as well as doing it the old way, *using the break pedal*. ~Steven

if the old rotors look fine as in no heat marks or nicks you can reuse them, the rotor should be smooth and if they aren't they will need to be replaced, its not a good idea to resurfaced rotors since the chances of them getting warped goes up. Most likely if they change the brakes before they wear out completly you can reuse the rotor. The squeaking from brakes is caused by not using the anti-squeak stuff or not seating the brakes right, usally brakes do squeak once in awhile no matter what you do depending on how hard you use them.

yea i'll used up all the fluid i have so i will have to get more after work tomorrow and see if the bubbles will go away. if that doesn't work i will let you guys know. Thanks for the input :cool:.

I drove the car around then put it into all the gears and then into park with the engine running and opened the hood and pulled the dip stick out noticed the bubbles then wiped it super clean and put it back in and pulled it out, putting the dip stick in light to see that it is at the right mark. if anything i think its on the low side. when i check with the engine off the fluid comes up way pass the full mark. i used dexron III/mercon couldn't find dexron II. ~Steven

like the title says I seem to get bubbles on my dipstick when i check my transmission fluid. this all started after changing the fluid . I thought it was from over filling the transmission so I slowly let out fluid to see if it would get better, however it seemed to only make the bubbles bigger so i'm wondering if i didn't add enough fluid or if their is something else wrong the car is a 93 legacy automatic awd.

This post has inspired me to change my atf but I ran into a weird problem, that problem is the dipstick is hard to read. Its not that the dipstick doesn't have the markings but the fluid has such a low viscosity it seems to run off before I can read it and so I can't tell how much fluid is in my tranny just wondering if anyone has any tricks or tips. Thanks, Steven

wow, good thing I haven't got around to it , thanks for the info.

A little off topic, but I have heard that it can be beneficial to change the filter screen. Like when you get torque bind, however nipper you say its bad to do, just wondering why. ~Steven

if you still want to do your own tint job there is a site http://www.tintdude.com/ which has some good info.

yea i noticed that and like I said only found the link so not sure what the user name is or password but when it worked it was pretty interesting kind of had all the part diagrams with small how-tos, oh well.

found this link while browsing the web and just wanted to share it with you guys. it works for me but post if it doesn't anyways it has tons of info at least on my 93 legacy so hopefully it can help with other car repairs aswell. The link is <http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=15352166&uid=s8393054.main.autorefctr> just copy and paste it in your browser without the "<>" or space between the t and r which i can't get out, should work but it is from another site so i don't take any responsibility ps not sure if linking isn't allowed so if it is a problem admins please delete

I need to repaint mine and was wondering if i were to repaint it black would it just come off again since that metal is smooth and probally hard for paint to stick on.

you can go to kbb.com to find the price for it probally going to run about 2,000 or so not sure though since it depends where you live. not sure if there is a lot of people wanting that type of car but if it runs good and looks good it should be a easy car to sell. good luck

its ok to mix, however Castrol Syntec Blend is fairly common so it wouldn't be any harder to find that vs mobil one or something.

the bolt that you take off to get the caliper up is the same size at least on mine.

it doesn't seem like it would be a electrical design problem since if it was the problem would probably occur a lot earlier in the life of the car, on the other hand carbon building up usually comes with age and explains why its happening when the car is older. What would be interesting is if the electrical engineer would post his fix since I'm 100% positive I could find someone to understand it if not myself.

Well I had to order the springs from Subaru since no part stores carry them. The part numbers if you want to order new springs for your parking brake for one side is, 2 of 26265aa040 "spring bk shoe" 2 of 26265pa010 "spring s" and 1 of 26265aa071 "spring adj" and I'm guessing those parts are the same for all 90-94 Legacy's with 4 wheel disk brakes. Anyways hopefully that fixes the problem yet I'm not to optimistic the next thing on the list is brake hoses. thanks for you help everyone and hope this thread is useful for others with the same problem. ~Stevecd

well my rear brakes did this same thing and when I replaced the master cylinder it didn't help but it seemed that after I regressed everything it made it better however I’m still waiting for parts to replace other things and finally drive without worrying about it.

I don't think the racks grab as much air as you think it does since if they did a lot of people would take them off. I would lean towards the problem being with the suspension. besides if you take the rails off you will probably have two marks going down your car.

I’m not sure what the idle problem might be but maybe try a fuel injector cleaner however an adjustment would probably be where the air enters the engine not the pedal, but for your brakes if they feel really mushy usually if you bleed your brakes it will fix it since brake fluid gets worse over time, its pretty easy to do yourself but is also cheap to have someone else do it for you.

lol i guess i'll try the napa, anyways once i replace everything ill let you guys know if it works.

I haven't replaced anything for the parking brake yet, i think i will try to go to the junk yard this week and get a bunch of stuff to see if it does anything different i'm sure everything needs to be replaced in the assembly since its been through so much. If anyone knows of a kit of stuff to buy I would buy it or know part numbers. I also need to replace the dust boot that protects the piston since the one on my car is literally burnet and is cracking apart.

While going up to school i had it happen again this time i noticed it right away since my rpms rose and my car felt "slow". anyways i got the idea of pulling my ebrake about half way up and releasing it really quick. anyways to make a long story short it did the trick and i was driving like normal again. anyways i guess i found a temp. solution if anyone is interested, just now i gotta find out how to stop it for good.

it has about 160k miles on it and i believe the last time it was replaced was around 100k but no history past that time so its just a guess, it does leak a little oil maybe a few drops a day from the front so it probally needs a seal somewhere and would rather do all of them at the same time so i don't have to deal with it later. if someone knew if that list for the 97 2.2l engine is the same i will just copy that order minus the stuff i'm getting off ebay.

this reminds me of my parents mercedes that had the same problem, i think what we ended up having to do is buy a new $100 remote and that ended up going bad in a few years. i'm sure they must make something in those things that end up aging over time since its a fairly common problem maybe a battery in the control unit. Hopefully you can find a fix.