Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


OB99W last won the day on April 1 2017

OB99W had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

15 Good

About OB99W

  • Rank
    Elite Master of the Subaru

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey OB99W, you seem like an expert on a topic I just posted on, could you take a quick look?




    Thanks for all your 3,315 posts. WOW.

  2. Become a member of subaruforester.org and go to this thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/piston-slap-03-forester-2833/ Download the InsiderInfoEndFall03.pdf file from post #5. Read the section "Assembling 1997 And Newer Engines". If for some reason you're unsuccessful doing the above, let us know and I'll see if I can post the information.
  3. '97-'98 Impreza FSM: http://www.ludicrous-speed.com/automotive/impreza/fsm/Impreza_1997-1998/ -- or (as PDF) -- http://www.ej207.com/files/Subaru%20Factory%20Service%20Manuals/97-98%20Impreza%20Factory%20Service%20Manual/1997-1998_impreza.pdf Lack of dash lights could be simple wiring or fuse problem, or blown illumination control.
  4. Your current mileage is well under the recommended change interval for the timing belt. You might want to get in touch with Subaru of America over that. In addition, I'd ask the dealer to show you the language in the extended warrantee which excludes the problem. If it really is excluded, your mocking attitude is probably justified.
  5. Congrats on the progress. P0134 is "O2 (A/F) Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected". Simply put, it's not being seen by the ECU -- assuming the sensor is good and the correct one, it's apparently not wired correctly to the ECU. It's possibly been that way since the swap, but because the sensor wasn't up to operating temperaure since it's heater wasn't working properly, the ECU couldn't tell. Something to check is continuity of the thin white and black sensor wires back to the ECU. However, be aware that you sometimes can't run ground wires between any two points without consequences. There's a reason why grounds run to particular locations, and usually it's because other paths cause signals to be interfered with. You might want to see if you can trace the A7/A15/C1 ground wiring and find out why it isn't doing the job, rather than adding other wiring.
  6. I'm seeing this as two separate issues. Initially, the #4 inj was stuck partially open, based on that it apparently still had output even when disconnected. (Otherwise, why would disconnecting #4 not cause "a stumble" while disconnecting the other three did?) After the swap and whatever else might have been done, there was an electrically-related problem, based on the code 17.
  7. Sorry, Mike, I hoped you had looked at the manual, but I wanted to make sure. Tightening sequence and torque are also important. See section 2-8, "Installation" (page 20?).
  8. Do you have a new gasket for the assembly? If the seal to the tank isn't good, you could have gas leakage and/or EVAP system problems.
  9. I missed the comment about the code 17, so what you said is something to look at. In the first post of the thread, it was mentioned that the wiring harness was changed, but the problem persisted. The question is, exactly what "harness" was replaced? A short to ground on the #4 inj control line from the ECU could be anywhere along it, including the possibility of there being a problem in the ECU itself. If just a pigtail at the injector was used, maybe it wasn't insulated well enough.
  10. That might happen from two possible scenarios: 1) You were only running on three cylinders. #4 was dead (due to any cause), so disabling any of the remaining three would make for a really rough engine. Possible, but not likely -- you'd probably have noticed a dead cylinder . 2) The #4 injector was leaky, so it had output even when it was electrically disconnected. More likely. If I'm correct that the original injector was hanging open, since the replacement was initially okay and then developed the same symptom, there may be crud in the rail. Or, it was leaking for other reasons. I'm with GD on getting a used rail with injectors already mounted. Be sure to protect the open ends from dirt until things are back together. The fuel filter does a good job of protecting the injectors, but it can't stop stuff from reaching the injectors that gets in the line after it. You may now have gas dilution of the oil. You should probably change it as a precaution.
  11. I can't say for sure, but there's a common cause of that noise. It's typically due to a corroded connection at the keyless remote entry "beeper". That's located just behind the grill, where it's vulnerable to road salt, and the cold weather can make a poor connection worse due to metal contracting. If you have a couple feet of rubber or plastic tubing around, you can use it as a stethescope -- put one end to your ear, and the other near the beeper. If that's the culprit, you can try unplugging the connector and cleaning the connection. If it's badly corroded, you might have to replace the beeper and/or the connector.
  12. Okay, that makes more sense. Using 1 & 4 passes the motor current through the fuse and wiring for the mode control, which isn't designed to handle the motor load. Definitely use 2 & 4 only (yes, that's where the relay contacts would normally be).
  13. You could put a switch (capable of handling the blower motor current) in place of the relay contacts. Agreed, it's a hack job, but I understand your circumstances. However, you have me puzzled. :-\ The wiring diagram I have (not factory) shows pins #2 & #4 as going to the relay contacts. It indicates #1 & #3 as going to the relay coil -- assuming that's correct, connecting those two pins together should blow the mode control's fuse, if the ground connection through the control was working. Without the ground (which seemed to be the case), the fuse wouldn't blow -- but either way, connecting #1 & #3 should theoretically not cause the blower to come on. Care to pursue this?
  14. The last check is to see if there's power at pin #1 with respect to chassis ground. If there is, then... ...the mode control is likely the culprit, which is where I was going and Josh went into detail about.
  15. That's right, in the highest speed position the resistor isn't in the circuit. Since you've already changed the relay, there are a couple of things you can try next time the blower quits. The first is to rap on the dash in the area of the mode control, and see if the blower comes back on. The other is to remove the relay and see if its coil is getting power -- it should be on pins #1 & #3 of the socket shown in the attached diagram. (Since the relay contacts normally are across pins #2 & #4, you'd see battery voltage across them as well.) Let us know what you find.