Sweden

Are you sure that you have the correct alternator? Does the vehicle idle 'pulse'? I had some real issues last summer with idling last summer/fall when the incorrect alternator (Japanese OBW version) was installed in my Indiana-built OBW. You can search for these posts under Sweden if you think this may be the issue. Alterantors have different 'set points' which cause them to act differently even though you can't tell on the meters. If you feel that this might be an issue, swap the alternator with another and see if the problem clears up. Just a thought based on three months of hell that I had... Good luck Sweden

Hello I have a question regarding the parking brake light on the dash of my ´96 OBW that is staying on for ever-increasing periods of time while driving. It can stay on up to 30 minutes while the car is in operation. The mechanic here said initially that it probably was frozen (he looked at it in Feb.) and we just shouldn't use it during the winter months, but now the problem is still persisting in the warmer months. Do brake cables rust on these or is just the 'fairy brake mother' telling me that it is now time for new rear pads? I just checked the pads and there aren't a whole lot left on them. Thanks! Sweden

The sensor 'gone bad' issue brings up a question. I had a problem with both the cam and crank sensors. Do they often go bad at the same time, or does something cause the problem? Sweden

Thanks for the advice. I'll go back and clean them. I have the feeling though that the sensor problem was caused by a month-plus of engine pulsing caused by having the wrong alternator in the vehicle (different set-points in alternators). The sensor problem (and starting problem) stated occuring during the time I had the incorrect alternator in the vehicle. My guess is that persistant electricity pulses burnt them out. Is this possible? Sweden

The new Crank Angle Sensor has been in for a week now and there has been no starting problems what so ever. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this was the solution. Sweden

Thanks Setright This sounds better and better; I'd rather replace a sensor than a ECU... I am wondering though, why the vehicle was initially (or even up to rather recently) spitting out a Cam Angle Sensor code and not a Crank Angle Sensor code? This was even after I replaced the Cam Sensor. Is this logical? Tangents are sometimes helpful. I'll start filling the filter as well... Sweden

We'll shoot for replacing the sensor and see if that helps then. Thanks for the response! Sweden

I am in the process of trying to track down a problem with my 96 OBW (EJ22) manual trans periodically not starting (when the car is half warmed up). When the problem first appeared this past autumn, it was giving a cam angle sensor code. I replaced the sensor but the starting problem persisted. The car is now at the Subie mechanic here and he is now getting a Crankshaft angle sensor code after the car doesn't start. He states that is he cools the sensor off for about 10 seconds with the A/C (?????) that the vehicle with start again. Seemingly the sensor is too hot. Questions: -Can the crank angle sensor cause the car not to start periodically (currently it starts fine when cold and starts fine after it has been driven more than 15 minutes)? -Is the sensor the problem or could it be a larger problem causing the sensor to throw a code (e.g. computer)? More specically: We can't determine if the Crank Shaft Angle Sensor is the same for Indiana-built Outbacks (mine) as Japanese-built versions? My experiences have shown that electrical systems are not the same. Is it possible to cross-reference part number(s)? Thanks! Sweden

Does anyone have suggestions on where to find a used computer (ECU) for a 96 Legacy Outback (manual trans)? It's the one under the pass. side floor. I don't have the exact number on me currently, but I remember that the big number on it was 8D. I've tried e-bay now for a few weeks and I haven't come up with a match. Any suggestions are welcome: bone yards, etc. This is for a U.S. version Subie. My mechanic here in Sweden thinks this might be a problem of the car periodically not starting (after it has been driven only 5-10 minutes). I know it is a electrical problem because I hooked an extra plug wire up when it wasn't starting and got no spark. We think it might be the computer because I had another (incorrect) alternator in the vehicle this summer, which caused pulsing of the engine and electrical system; it was installed for about 2 months. I started having the starting problem during the last month of having the wrong alternator installed. Japanese & U.S. versions have different set points where the alternators kick in according to my aflternator parts supplier. Otherwise I am open to any other suggestions of what might be up. I found the numbers on the unit: DAO 8D then a upc code 8D (these are big) 22611 AC270 on the bottom in two boxes: JA18000DAO 5907 Thanks beforehand! Sweden

OK, I finally got around to checking for spark when the car has been acting up and not starting. NO SPARK! I hooked up an old wire and plug and cranked it over. nothing! Since it is always night here this time of year I'm pretty sure this is the case. The problem of not starting mostly only occurs when the car has only been driven a 5-10 minutes. After it warms up it does it noticably less, if not at all. It makes running to the grocery store for milk a real adventure! Sweden

Half attempts at fixing things are often part of life here in Sweden. It is something that I have tried to get used to for the past 6 years now to no avail. This is another thread on another type of forum though. I have the choice between two mechanics here in the region of southern Sweden. I have been warned that the other one is really problematic and expensive. I'll order a manual from the U.S. since models are different between the two countries (mine being a OBW from Indiana) and start trying to check things out myself. I still fear that this is related to the alternator for the Japanese versions of Outbacks. Could pulsing of the engine cause something to give in the electrical system? The problem started about the same time as I was installing the original-rebuilt alternator back in the car. Just a (bad) thought. Sweden

Thanks for the replies. I could be mistaken about when and what the mechanic checked. As I said I am getting the info second hand. I'll try and order a manual stateside and ship it here to Sweden. They are $15.50 + shipping at manual4me on ebay. I still am wondering though if the wiring problem is related to the car not starting? What would be the connection? Sweden

A little update and hopefully a bit more help. I used the Code reader from the Voyager a few weeks back to find out why the car isn't starting. I hooked it up and received the same code as the Subie mechanic here got earlier: Cam Angle Sender. Shoot! This isn' the problem since I replaced it a few weeks earlier. The car is also still not starting when driven for short distances. Great when it is cold, great after it has been driven for 20 minutes. I just can't go to the grocery store or I need to wait in the parking lot for 5 minutes before it will start again. My wife brought the car in again to be checked out. He checked some different electrical outputs and found out the for some odd reason the Ohms shoot way up when starting the car (to around 1200ish). Way too high according to him. (Sorry, I can't be more specific but I am getting all the info second hand from my wife.) The mechanic is now requesting a wiring diagram for the car for some reason. Are these diagrams out there some where without buying a manual? He suspects the computer being the problem, but before we go that route he wants to look at the wiring. I also might think that this could be connected to the problem with the incorrect alternator that was installed in the car for 2 months this summer (see one of my other threads on Uneven idle/wrong alternator). Is this possible? Any idea where one can find a electrical diagram for a 96 OBW (EJ22)? Thanks beforehand as usual! Sweden

To tell you the truth, I don't remember which one I replaced. I actually bought the sensor in the U.S. (I think itiwas about $7) and had the mechanic here in Sweden change it when the car was in for a factory recall. That was about three-plus years ago. I want to say that it was the sensor that sits right under the alternator (if that helps at all). In any case I can check the voltage. Thanks, Sweden

Did that; no change. That's why I'm stumped... sweden

Wow! Replies, and then some! Thanks! I'll start then by borrowing the friends reader and work from there. Thanks again! Sweden

A few years back I posted about my temp gauge not working properly. The needle stays off the peg (after the car has warmed up), but only moves up to the 'C'. I get plently of heat so I assume it is coming up to temp. I started out by replacing the thermostat; no change. I next replaced the temp sender; no change. The local mechanic here checked out the wiring; everything seemed o.k. (I assume proper voltage). I read somewhere along the line on this site that gauges had a tendency to go bad. I ordered one a few weeks back ($30) and installed it yesterday. NO CHANGE! What am I missing here? What's left to replace? It seems that the system is working, even to the point where my mechanic told me to forget trying to determine what's wrong. It is just that the gauge functions around the C instead of in the middle. One thing that I must add is that replacing the gauge was a lot easier than I had been (negatively) anticipating over the past 2+ years... Sweden

Hello gang! I have some starting problems with my 96 OBW (EJ22). If the car runs for a few minutes and then I try and start it again , it won't start--at least sometimes. (An example would be if I drive to the gas station and dump some $6 per gallon gas in the car and then try and start it again). Last time it was in the shop (regional Subaru mechanic) he stated that the code he got was the cam angle sensor, which I happily ordered (from the U.S.) and replaced. No luck. It still does the same. I am getting the check engine light again. I have two questions: a) what might be causing this problem? a friend offered the use of his code reader to find out where the problem is; he has a newer model Chrysler Voyager. Are all code readers different or will this one work? I hate the idea of paying my mechanic loads of money here just to read the code if I can do it myself for free. I also have a friend on his way from DC to Sweden next week who could bring one specifically for this car. No shipping; no import taxes! Thanks as usual beforehand! Sweden

This thread has now ended... Last night we installed the original alternator with rebuilt parts from the U.S. and it runs like normal again. No uneven idle; no problems. The moral of the story is that electrical systems (or at least alternators) are different in Indiana-built vehicles than in Japanese-built ones even though the part numbers matched. This is something that my alternator guy couldn't even figure out. It's nice to have the vehicle back in proper running order; now I can wait for the next issue to pop up. Thanks for all the responses to this thread. It has been a learning experience. Sweden

I will assume that they are the same and contact them here for a price. Thanks! By the way, I had a great time in Copenhagen last week. The problem was the 4-5 hrs of commuting each day. The bomb scare (forgotten backpack) was also a problem at Osterport. I didn't see any Imprezas flying down the road past me though...

Its the 'axel - angle' part that I am not totally certain on. Sweden

O.K. this is a new one. I need your help with some Swedish translation. My '96 OBW was in the shop for a check engine light problem. In the process, the mechanic stated that I needed to order and replace something that I translate to a cam axle sensor (kamaxel givare in Swedish). Is there something that goes by roughly this name? It was bad but easy to replace. Thanks! Sweden

The Hitachi alternator parts are on their way from MN to Sweden (see previous thread on new alternator/uneven idle). Now that that problem will hopefully be solved, it is time for a new problem! The car is becoming increasingly difficult to start. It will only crank over if I unsuccessfully start it the first time and then try it again immediately. I need to let it sit a minute; then it will pop off. It seems equivelent to 'flooding' it with a carbrated system. The check engine light is now on permantently. Is it time for a new fuel filter or something else of the liking? Is it easiest just to bring it in to the Subie mechanic here and pay him loads of money to most-likely not solve the problem? about a 110,000 U.S. miles on the car. Hints? Thanks! Sweden

I'll keep my eyes open for it. Sweden

I'm no expert but I had the same problem with my 1996 2.2. See the thread 'new alternator/uneven idle' for some ideas; I posted today so its around here. There was everything from the temp sender to O2 sensor. My problem was the wrong alternator. Good luck! Sweden