Sweden

Hej Setright! I took the car with me from the U.S. back in 1999. There seem to be numerous differences between the US versions and the rest of the world, UNFORTUNATELY! One of them is the electrical system. The mechanic here (Conny Flynn Bilservice) says that he can order an alternator from Japan for 5000 SEK. I'd like to not spend all that money if I can come up with an alternative way (e.g. an envelope with parts from the US). I'll be in Copenhagen for week 35 (29th - 2nd). Unfortunately, it is a for a course that will keep me busy from morning to night... Actually, I have bought a house in Eslöv now. That was our previous real estate price conversation... I work at Lund University. Sweden

Does anyone know of a place in the US that can sell me all the necessary alternator rebuild parts for a 1996 Legacy Outback (EJ22) (bearings, rotor, diodes etc.)? It seems that electrical systems for vehicles in the US (Indiana) are different from those (from Japan) here in Sweden. Hence, me NOT being able to get the correct alternator for my vehicle (see link on New alternator/uneven idle). My options are to buy a heavy alternator in the US and ship it here. I then have an issue with the core charge-expensive shipping etc. The other option is for the guy that sold me the new (rebuilt) alternator here in Sweden to rebuild the original with parts that I find in the US. This sounds cheaper and better from a logistical point-of-view. Any advice? Also, if I need to buy an alternator in the states, where can I get one that is good and inexpensive? It seems that Subaru only sells rebuilt ones as well nowadays. Thanks again for the advice beforehand! Sweden

OK The Subaru mechanic is back after his 5-week vacation (you mechanics in the U.S. should consider setting-up shop here...). We took the car in and he checked it out. Bad alternator as orginially thought. The alternator repair man will now rebuild it (since he sent the core back already). Then we'll try it again. It is nice to know that it wasn't me who was the problem... I guess we all know now that a bad or wrong alternator can do funky things to the idle. Thanks for all the advice. Sweden

I vote for the alternator. This is exactly what mine did a few weeks back. Sweden

I'll order one from the states and have a family member sent it over. It is the cheapest and most efficient way... But, I was just reading another thread about alternators. I have slight dimming of head lamps, dash lamps, etc. with the fluctuations (while I am driving), and I just replaced the alternator. I feel for some reason there is a connection, or is the alternator just not keeping up? Sweden

Unfortunately the coolant sensor has been pegged at C for the past 2-3 years. I'm not sure if I should admit that though... No problems with starting the vehicle hot or cold. I replaced one of the sensors when the problem first started to no avail. Where is the one for the gauge located? The thermostat as well. I need to come up with another sensor, but that could be a pain here in Sweden. Yes, I did turn off the defroster. It made the problem less drastic, but it still unfortunately persists. Sweden

I have had the opportunity to analyze the problem a bit better now. I started the car and let it run for about 15 minutes. There is still the rough or changing idle, but it is less frequent with the defrost off (& A/C pump off?). It runs nicely for say 45 seconds and then starts idling unevenly for about 5-15 seconds, with the alternator making some what could be discribed as a rotation noise. I am wondering if I bumped something when I installed the new (rebuilt) alternator, if it is still the incorrect alternator (no lights on the dash and it checks out according to the shop), or if it is only coincidental that I noticed this 'problem' after I installed the alternator. It seems as though 'Midwst' has the same issues here... Also, I noticed now that my windshield is leaking through the top of the gasket onto the mirror etc. (it was replaced 1-1/2 years back); should I take it back tot he shop that replaced it or try to fix it myself? The neighbor stated that normal silicone dowsn't do the trick because it doesn't stick so well to automotive paint. Sweden

Midwst, Keep me posted on this problem and especially if you find a solution. I have another thread (named something like: new alternator/rough idle) on seemingly the same problem in my 96 Legacy Outback (EJ22). It has some sort of similar rough/changing idle as well. I noticed mine after I changed the alternator 2 weeks back, but I am not sure if that is the cause. I have also had a temp gauge (or sensor) problem (needle stays close to C always) in the car for the past few years, so I am not sure that woud be the cause of a rough idle in mine. Sweden

There is something there, I feel, more than giving it a bit of time. Something is up... Cougar, you mentioned the A/C again. Yes, if drives as though the A/C keeps coming on. I feel it when I drive. I also notice that there is a puddle of H2O under the car (under the appropriate waste pipe by the firewall) when the car sits without the A/C ever being on. Is that o.k.? The sequence seems to be some sort of A/C pump movement, fluctuated idle (200 RPMs), and then normal steady idle. Thanks again for all the responses! Sweden

I spent a bit of time with the vehicle last night. I removed the door panel and played around some with the wires. I also removed the keyless remote receiver. I thought it helped but I got a little lock activation upon a test drive. This car has a ghost... Sweden

Went to the electric shop. Alternator seems to check out. His suggestion was the Subaru repair shop here in the area. The problem is that this is Sweden so the guy is on vacation 'til Aug 15... Question: Are there different alternaotrs to different models? For example will a 96 Legacy have a different alternator than an 96 Legacy Outback? I noticed that the rpms fluctuate about 200-300 at idle when the car is doing it. Could this be totally unrelated to the alternator? What else may cause it? Sweden

I've reprogrammed the keyless entry system now numerous times, but never with the doors shut. The problem is that the reset button on the receiving unit is broken so I need to hold the two remaining (brown) wire pieces together in order to get the reset to trigger. There has been no response to any sort of reset/reprogramming, which has been a topic of past threads of mine. It has been suggested that I look for a new receiving unit on ebay... I'll keep playing with it. I'll pull the door handle and check out the 'switch' as well. Only 111K on the car and it is starting to drive me nut! Sweden

I paid 3300 SEK for mine, so you did o.k. actually. We'll check it out this morning. Even if one buys an alternator from Subaru in the U.S. these days, one will get a rebuilt one. That is all that is avalable on the market. Yes, there are loads of your kind heading over the bridge to buy property here. That's o.k. by me, because we bought a house last year (in Eslov). Let the real estate prices rise! Sweden

I've had the same problem for a few years now in my 96 OBW (Yes, I know I should do something about this...). The gauge on mine stays around 'C' instad. It will periodically come up about 1/4 but that is it. I have replaced sensors, thermostats to no avail. Is it a real pain in the rear to replace the gauge? How much are they? Sweden

subie94, One of the contacts seems logical because it is only when the weather is warm and nice that the key will have the power to activate all the locks in the car. Otherwise I need to unlock the driver's door with the key and then reach around and do the rest manually to let he family in. Sweden

Just a little update... No problems at all today with the system activating. Strange. Sweden

No problems with stretching wires or dim dash lights. The alternator fit on nicely; although the guy that did sell it to me said that it wasn't an exact match. I will meet with him first thing in the morning (in Malmo). He'll measure voltage. Are Subaru's less problematic to find parts for in Denmark; maybe I should relocate and commute. Oh ya...real estate prices are a big hindrance...! Sweden

I'll check out the defrost to see if something is fishy there. If resetting/reprogramming the ECU involves only disconnecting the negative battery post for 45 minutes and then driving the car again, it had no impact. I receive no warning lights on the dash; the charging part seems completely normal. It is the strange idle, A/C, etc. that is not right. If the alternator was rebuild in Sweden, I would suspect that it was rebuilt adequately. There isn't usually a problem with quality here (and one pays for it!). I'll bring the vehicle to the electric shop that sold me the alternator tomorrow. He'll test it. Is there anything he should look for, or any certain readings that he should receive with this vehicle (output levels, etc)? I'm rather clueless n this front. Thanks again! Sweden

Here's a problem that I haven't written about with my 96 Legacy Outback (EJ22) that is seemingly getting worse. The keyless remote system has not worked for a few years now and I have never fixed it--keys only! Over the past year I have noticed that when one opens the driver's door with the key that only the driver's door unlocks (all the doors used to unlock at the same time). Even more recently I have noticed when one sits in the car after opening the door(s) that the locking system tries to activate (circulate?) the locks by itself several times. It is annoying! What stops it is me locking the doors manually from the inside. Any ideas what could be causing these problems and if there is a soluation to solve the problems? Thanks! Sweden

I'll check for the info on reprograming the ECU. Thanks! What would be the symtoms of having the wrong alternator in the vehicle now? Might these be the results? I spoke with the guy who sold me the rebuilt alternator here and Sweden and he stated that it wasn't the exact same one as the orginal. I am wondering if it might be a weaker or stronger one that was in the vehicle??? Sweden

The same problem here a few years back. The moral of the story is not to let the kids play around in the driver's seat or clean the dash area without playing close attention! Welcome to the board also! Sweden

Good afternoon from Sweden. I installed a new (rebuilt) alternator and belt in my 1996 Legacy Outback about a week back. It solved the problem with the brake light and battery light on the dash board, which relieves me greatly. Now I have the problem of the car not idling steadly (it fluctuates slightly). This problem started directly after I installed the new alternator. I also noticed that what I assume is the A/C pump kicks in very often without the A/C being on. What's up here? Did I get a bad alternator or install something incorrectly. Everything looks o.k., but it doesn't sound o.k... I forgot one thing as well... The lights (headlights and dash lights) dim slightly when the engine idle starts fluctuating. I notice it at night. I don't receive and problem lights on the dash though. Thanks for the advice beforehand! Sweden

I am in the process of replacing the alternator on my 1996 Legacy Outback (2.2). Of course the car isn't listed here in Sweden becasue it was manufactured in Indiana, so they have no part listings. There are two alternative alternators to choose from. Is the alterator the 75 amp one for this car? All the numbers on the alterantor from Fuji and Hitachi eventently don't help them... Thanks! Sweden

Thanks for the replys! The alternator was my first guess as well. Now the larger problem-finding a alternator in Sweden that won't take ALL of my next paycheck. One additional thing also...finding someone that isn't on vacation to order or rebuild one. Thanks again! Sweden

Hello! I just spent a very long 4 hours fighting with my 96 Legacy Outback (2.2). I left this moring for a day of motocrossing/camping with my son only to find the battery light and the brake light lit on the dash board. Strange combination... I thought that maybe it was a water/dampness-related problem because I just sprayed the outside of the car off before we left. By the time we got close to our destimation (1/2 hour away) the gauges started dancing on the dashboard. I knew I was almost out of power from the battery at that point and turned around for home. I made it about 5 minutes and then the car died on the road. I got a jump from someone and got the car to his house to put it on the charger. The problem was after a few minutes on the charger, it popped the safety circuit on it. I then thought that the battery was done, so bought a new one and installed it. The battey light and brake sensor light are still on and I assume the same problem still exists. Any ideas what might be up? What would cause the car not to take a charge? The fuses seemed to look good, so the problem isen't there...I think. Thanks beforehand! Sweden