Midwst

My LF wheel on the Subaru shakes..worse at hwy speeds. Also some noise while driving, but also clicking noise for LF CV shaft. If the CV shaft is really worn out, I know it can cause a vibration while driving. Tires too...would a slightly worn wheel bearing do the same thing? Thanks.

I have a friend who is driving her car with water only...due to massive coolant leak at water pump, as long as the car does not overheat, is it okay? Or can the water boiling cause a problem in itself?

What do you think about coolant leak stop products? Safe? Not safe? Which ones would you use on a Subaru? I have good luck with the brown tablets, but never used them on a Subaru before. Have used them on Saturns and a Chevy 1500 van...work, no problems.

Yes, don't trust Haynes much anyway. This warning was given along with basic instructions for R&R 1/2 shafts. Still trying to figure out if bad 1/2 shaft or wheel bearing problem helped with the demise of my 91 Legacy tranny. Just curious.

Has anyone had any luck with using a friction addative to stop a slipping transmission? Or is it a case of once it starts to go...thats it? Thanks.

Josh, what is LSD diff addative? How much? Might try it on my 91 Legacy.

Torque binding maybe? Ran into the same problem on a 93 Legacy. Shuddered very badly on turns, especially in cul-de-sacs.

Two very off the wall tranny questions. 1. Can a bad wheel bearing or dragging brakes...or even a wasted upper strut mount bearing cause transmission/differential damage because the axle is straining to turn the wheel? 2. The Haynes manual says "do not remove both axles at the same time because this can result in final gear misalignment." I have never heard of such a problem. I have seen many transmissions being shipped and installed. No percautions were ever taken to prevent "final gear misalignmnet." Any thoughts? Thanks.

I know my 96 Legacy shakes in drive at idle because the half shafts are a little bit too long. It is not supposed to be a problem with the outbacks. In fact, the dealer says, to fix the shake, replace the legacy half shafts with outback half shafts. I am wondering if someone sold you the wrong part and it a tiny bit too long? That would be my first guess... to double check the part number. Other option is to instal a subaru OEM half shaft. I understand that they are not horribly expensive, but have not personally investigated this.

Kidding okay. Last hoses I did were fuel lines in the street at -1' degrees in January. Hard to install very cold hoses. Had to put the darn things under my arm pits to keep them warm enough to instal. The puffy insulated gloves didn't help the measuring much either. Next time will hope for warmer weather.

I find my questions disturbing too. You wouldn't want to be inside my brain...its not pretty. I worry enough for 200 people. Sorry if I have caused anyone distress.

I would like to buy a section of rubber fuel tank inlet hose. Would like to not stop midway through the job to buy parts. I remember in high school an equation for measuring the circumferance of a pipe, than multiplying by pi or something to get the pipe diameter. Does anyone remember what the equation is? Would be helpful in construction projects too. Also, have a terrible time cutting rubber hose to the right length. I match it up exactly, then its too short or I overshoot and cut too long. Waste lots of hose. Any tips?

Mattocs, did you try anything to stop the ticking? Like addatives? I drove a 96 Legacy 2.2L a few weeks ago, it ticked terribly! Decided not to buy it because it made me nervous. Does subaru say this is normal?

I know she's had it for at least 6 months..not exactly sure when she bought it. She has put at least 10K miles on it. Clutch was replaced a few months ago, no rear main seal issues. I can smell the oil burning from the tail pipe, but don't see any smoke yet. I had a Corolla that went from burning a qt of oil every 1,000K miles to a quart every 600 miles in two years, but never left me stranded. I hope it doesn't go down hill that fast... Now she is trying to decide if she should sell it after spending all of the money on the clutch. Not sure what to tell her. Like the story of the long oil burning Buick. Burns oil past rings? Yes. Already been diagnosed professionally. Does oil burning past the rings cause the rings to wear faster? Opinions?

I have a friend who bought a 97 subaru with 154K miles. She says it is burning oil at a rate of 1/2 qt every 1,100 miles. My question is, based on your vast body of experience, how fast will it go down hill? No obvious oil leaks. I am wondering, once an engine starts to burn oil, does it take a 12K or 24K to get really bad, or does the blow by, in itself cause thre rings to fail faster? She did have the leak down test done and it is the rings. Would like to give her an idea of what to expect. Many thanks for your help!