paladin_w

I have the six disk system in my 97 OBW limited, I would have much rather the single disk, you know what you are putting in, and can carry many different disks and listen to what you want when you want. Now, I have worked on stereos for years, and I had that problem with an aftermarket Jensen cd player. The issue layed, with that unit at least, with a gear that was not seating properlly. The disk would go in, I would hear grinding noises and then would spit the disk back out. There were times it would take the disk, and as long as I left it in there it would play fine. Unless you are a bit skilled with the repair of stuff especally stereos I would not try it until you have agreed with yourself that if it cannot be fixed you are going to replace it. The cover needs to be removed and a 12 volt power supply connected, as the previous post, I would use a disk you know works but don't care about, I borrowed someones brittney spears and it scratch the hell out if it With the cover off keep inserting the disk and watching where it binds, a piece of plastic might have broken off somewhere and needs to be re-attached, or an allignment problem, good luck.

Make sure you do give that thing a chance to warm up, then drive it hard and fast for a few minutes. Bout the worst you would drive it. Then give it a few minutes to settle down. Also turn it off and start it a few times, not only to listen to the starter after it has warmed and recharged battery but it can kick the ECM into telling you any codes you might have. I did not do this and as soon as I had the no warrenty as is car on the way home the second day I had it the CEL came on. Just a EGR flow problem, but I haven't been able to correct it, and I could have made them do it before I took delivery.

Make sure you do give that thing a chance to warm up, then drive it hard and fast for a few minutes. Bout the worst you would drive it. Then give it a few minutes to settle down. Also turn it off and start it a few times, not only to listen to the starter after it has warmed and recharged battery but it can kick the ECM into telling you any codes you might have. I did not do this and as soon as I had the no warrenty as is car on the way home the second day I had it the CEL came on. Just a EGR flow problem, but I haven't been able to correct it, and I could have made them do it before I took delivery.

Been there with my 97 OBW while installing tinting. you might want to check the white front guide as suggested and there are two adjustable pushers with kind of felt on the window contact side, on the top of the metal that hold the window against the same ones on the other side of the door touching the glass. The bolts may have come loose and allowed the glass to lean in.

You get less milage with an auto tranny. My old 92 legacy wagon 2.2 5 sp got bout same milage 27-30 in town and 30-32 Hwy.

Exactlly, maybe it is just a subaru thing, I took all the stickers and advertizing off mine... and there were three stickers from dealers on them one on top of the other. I am no one's billboard right on man.

I definatlly use the free resources, Autozone, checker, advanced auto and some others will read the codes for free, if you are not sure call first.

First thing I would do would be to check local junk yards, and pull yards, you can get replacements for a bunch cheaper, and I have had wives complain about it doesn't look right. I would definatlly go that route first.

electric_monk you are da man good post, I have had to dodge those animals and others too. I like good lighting and intend to modify my 97's system in less than two weeks, I will put what wire you need to mess with probably before I do it, or if you want to wait for a few weeks I will post the procedure I finally did. I have looked at the wiring diagram and I have surmised the fogs turn off of course because the ground is no longer present when switching from low to high. All you should have to do is connect fogs ground to the high as it is connected to the low since the bulbs run dual filament. Other options are to install an aux switch to the fogs them selves on the ground and just flip it when you hit the high beams, this gives you the option of having your fogs on or not when you have brights on, of course there is that switch on your dash, but hey I light switches. and then you won't have to take your dash fog switch off when you change back to lows which happens quite often on two way roads.

I agree with most here, and hey, welcome, the biggest thing I say is keep up on the maintance, I have subarus that are pushing 200K on milage, these babies can take abuse and just as we do can get better if they get a booboo. So take care of her and enjoy.

johnd911 I have not heard that about the 2.5 that is what i have in my 97 OBW, I have 176K but I will inspect that while I am struggling on my EGR, may distract me and come up with a solution.

Can you add LSD's to any subaru, either axel?? I might be interested in having this done. However does anyone think on an AWD 97 OBW I would have to have both done at the same time?

OH sorry I forgot to add the light things, I just finished changing the lights on my stock stereo head unit couple of weeks ago. I did not have lcd display light, or preset numbers. I could walk you through the procedure, but it will take a soldering iron and a couple of 2.5 mm incand. bulbs they are not LEDs. Anyway let me know if you want to know a novice electronics person could do it, but it is up to you.

Hey bb13 welcome and sorry to hear you are having this problem. I can understand the frustration as I am dealing with an EGR problem right now but my 97 still runs ok. I know I am going to get yelled at for this one and I kind of get from your posts that you are not a DIYer... but...if you have the nerve block your sub all up and brace sides front and back this will provide the car with as close to zero load as can get. Two people are good for this when you *slowly* rev in park listen for sounds, hopefully there won't be any, then in drive *slowly* one of the primary wheels might not be spinning caused by many things, but that could be something. I am one of the only people crazy enough to have done this myself so I really don't think you will go for this. However I would think this would be a problem with an electrical connecter linked to the speed sensor or shifter, if you do not have a good connection it will not shift. This could be a loose wire or a parially broken connection, or even a loose connecter on the other end away from where the mechanic checked. Don't know but good luck and others just be nice with your responces, I am a bit crazy

I have to agree both ways with snows and stocks. However I am in the mountains of colorado, and travel the continental divide quite often and if I had my option now that I have the storage space again I would put snows on during the winter when I know I will be traveling on snow more often than not and then change them out after the last forcasted mass snow fall. The little bit extra is definatlly peace of mind and although those tires are a bit more expensive, you have to consider previous posts they will only be on for about 90 days a year so with proper rotation they will last you 5 or more years. I also will stay posted to this thread to see how you like your new selection as I have my 97 and will need new tires soon, unfortunatlly my 92 has different size rims so my tire changing trick won't changeover. One last thing any one have thoughts/opinions/or experiences with chains on AWDs it would change the circumfrence and I would think that you would put them on the fronts since the weight is there... and since they would only be used for max of 100 miles I am not sure on if any damage would occure????

Oh to only have the room to install a secondary. I know there was a post that said a second battery was only a load after the vehicle was started...and that is correct...kind of...if everything is running of standard OEM with primary circuitry running off of fuses. However when you are running a lot of extras and they are hooked up direct batt line, like large stereos that uses the extra amps the batt has to make up the demand espically on bass hits. When the demand is not there the battery will act as another load. I had a dual batt in three of my vehicles including my 92 sub, and wish I could have a secondary in my 97 but there is no room. For others reading this post if you want a backup batt for peace of mind just incase the primary fails, just wire up a second if you have a place with the same size gage the primary has - to block and one end of + to primary batt, and install a large coverable throw switch available at most auto stores, looks like a bar that slides into two tongs. Then if your primary batt dies all you have to do is pop the hood throw the switch, watch out for a little spark, do it quickly, and give the other batt about a min to give the primary a little juice then you have jumped your car with itself!

I am still researching and working on this problem...does anyone know of somewhere that really explains the operation and inner workings of a Back Pressure Transducer (BPT)??? I have gotten a couple of decient ideas from other posts as its function, but I am not crystal clear on it. Also is there anyother componets that could directly affect the vacuum signal in the EGR system besides the 3 componets that are listed in the manual as the EGR system? Karl

Well I have to say, I had a couple of vehicles before my first subaur my 92, and then a couple afterwords... I now am back with a 97 OBW and I am loving it, even though I have an issue my baby still runs great. Milage is a large concern in other vehicles but as you will find if you look around this board there are subs with very high milage and they are still running strong, my 92 has 160K and my 97 has 176K. These engines and trans mesh really well and I do not think that you get better gas milage/dependability/performance/and versitility out of any other class of vehicle. As long as you do tune-ups on a good maintance schedule these are long lasting reliable vehicles. Parts usually are more expensive than others, but I have found there are less times they need replaced. Good luck with picking out your new subaur and welcome to the board. Karl

Yes, I have recomended that to others, but if your autozone is like mine they will not reset anymore, my guys all know me, and they said they were given a direct order from their managers not to reset the codes anymore since there is something about a class action suit for people getting their codes reset so they will pass emissions, this is prevailent in states that use OBD II testing to pass emissions on cars. However reseting the codes does not fully reset the ECM, it only clears the trouble codes and tells the ecm all should be well and to put everything back to its last good operational specs ie. aggressive timing curve, air/fuel mixture and such. Reseting the ECM completely by battery depletion will force the ECM to in essence relearn the current setup and condition all overagain starting from the factory presets. I don't mean to be cross or anything I have had 3.5 hours of sleep and working my second shift on an 8 hour turnaround, I do appriciate all suggestions.

I knew I forgot to mention make and model, then again maybe it was subconcensus wanting people to read my EGR problem post...hummmm It is on a 97 OBW Limited. I will try to leave the cable off longer if I try it again, like all night or something. Thanks. Karl

I was under the impression that disconnecting the battery would reset the ECM and reset all the codes. However when I did that my check engine light stayed on. I have the problem with my EGR flow that I guess is stumping quite a few people it is on page two I still would appriciate any input on it. But I was reading other posts and people were talking about if the battery was disconnected and the gas hit, or car driven directly afterwords, which is exactly what I did before my problem started the ECM would not have time to get used to the current tune-up and condition of the engine, climate, ect... I still do not have any change on my EGR situation unfortunatlly either, and do have access to a OBD II at my office. Is the check engine light staying on from perminate memory codes or did it just not reset?

I don't know about this, but I would check autozone, checkers, or your larger local auto places, I would call to see if they have Haynes or Chiltens manuals. It usually takes about four years to get a repair manual out for vehicles, but you can call and see. Anything more technical than that I agree with getting on line posts they can have up to date information.

I had the same problem on my 92 Legacy W, my little brother has to deal with it now, I tried to get that thing out to regrease it, I spent all day without luck, the steering collum really gets in the way even with it pushed down. I am sure it is cold where you are but mine would quiet down after several miles and I found it helpful to run the vent heat to push some warmth there, and at one point poped a hole in the plastic heat pipe aimed at the inst. cluster but that didn't do much. For your keyless system, you might check what fuse it is on, and pull the unit down from the drivers kick panel and check all the harnesses to make sure they are tight, you can do this also by disconnecting the battery, there should be a sticker by the battery warning about the keyless/security system and that it will reset it. so I believe you get something when you reset it, you get parking lights flashing when you reset the keyless&security system. And lastly for the gas milage, if you haven't done a tune-up in the last 5000 definatlly do a comprehensive one, filters (air, fuel, oil) plugs, and oil. Couger you mentioned remotes were cheap on ebay, I paid $54 USD for mine what did you put into the search field, I haven't been able to find any. Karl

I have had similar experience I glance hit a horse with my 92' Legacy wagon, really messed up the front right fender, and shattered my windshield. Had the internal and suspension fixed, lived with the visible damage. I did have future problems with the front right trans axel. I replaced it two times but it would start clicking after about every 5,000 miles. A mechanic said I would have to replace the entire axel because it was tweaked a little bit and would continue to go through trans axils until replaced. Good luck with it.

I am really beginning to hate this. Today I have taken the EGR valve off, more than a layer of carbon film on it, cleaned it, found a little blockage in the metal tube going into the #4 chamber, cleaned it out, again checked all componets, and all pass tests, but when I put everything on the car the valve stem does not move. I have a more consistant vacuum from the EGR valve hose, goes up to 12" and kind of bounces, sometimes drops sometime not, but always bounces; and the valve will move nicely with as little as 3" of vacuum as long as it is applied with the hand pump. I replaced all the vacuum hoses cleaned the inside of the EGR valve, and the #4 chamber to make sure there is good flow once the valve starts operating correctly, and placed a new gasket on the EGR valve. I am getting stumped, I have to go on a 30 hour car trip here in 2 1/2 weeks to get my kids for visitation. I really want this to be fixed, if anything else goes wrong, I will not know the check engine light is always on!