usaru

I'm north of you on 107 and would also be interested in any recommendations made here. We have a local dealer, and I was witness to them totally ripping off an insurance company with fraudulent claims. If they would do that to an insurance company, why not to me as well?

I had a loud clunk when shifting into !st or R, it also sounded when coming to a stop. Loose axle nut diagnosed during inspection. 3 seconds with an air gun fixed it (for free, although I did throw the mech a tip). I could hear my wallet and back breath sighs of relief. Hope you get lucky.

If I may piggyback here...when should a PCV valve be replaced? Should one wait till it malfunctions, or is there a prescribed interval? Thanks.

I believe a worn C.V. joint or transmission mount can produce your symptoms.

One big ticket item can save you that much easily, and you will certainly amortize that amount with regular household shopping over the course of a year. Anyway, I think the same Michelin tire is re-packaged into other house brands and is available at other discount outlets, as well as Sears, if I'm not mistaken. Besides the quality, it's also an 80,000 mile tire, which makes dollars sense as well.

Went through the new tire research routine a couple of months ago. You might find this thread informative: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82770&highlight=usaru Settled on Michelin X Radial DTs from Costco. It's a very good all-season tire.

Thanks for the update.

Favourable reviews of the SP 60 here: http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?additionalComments=y&commentStatus=P&tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=SP+60&tirePageLocQty=

Have a look at this thread for some recent opinions on tyres: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82770&highlight=usaru

Do a drain and refill every time you change the oil, or every second time if you use dino. It's cheap, quick and easy. There'll always be some fresh in the transmission, and you'll probably be spared the expense of ever needing a flush.

Thanks for the responses. After wading through interminable reviews and visiting a number of shops finally settled on the Michelin X Radial DTs from Costco. These were rated #2 in class by Consumer Reports a couple of years ago. The top-of-the-line Goodyear Triple Treds and the Michelin Hydro-Edge are slightly better in terms of bad weather performance, but being a "moderate" driver, I don't feel I need "outstanding" capabilities. Also, because of closer traction, both have higher "rolling resistance", leading to lower m.p.g. With gas prices the way they are... In comparison to tires like the Yokohamas and Kumhos, the X Radials are also have an 80,000 mile warranty, and if the performance of the original Mich XW4s is anything to go by, I'll get my money's worth there. Only one set of incidental costs - valves, balance, alignment, disposal, tax (plus your time) - every 80K makes up for the sticker price difference. If the reviews had been better I would have gone with Bf Goodrich Long Trails, the only tire available with raised white lettering , which I like because it's a sporty look. Too many blow-out scare-stories though. While everything can sound good on paper, one needs the real world to confirm a decision. Yesterday night we had 3 to 4 inches of ice pellets dumped in our area. Went into the mush in the Subie and tried to have some fun - accelerated into sharp turns, hit the brakes, tried to slide and fishtail - but the car just squatted and tracked. No fun, but it felt like the car and tires were made for each other. I am very satisfied with my choice. (BTW, for those who don't know, Tirerack.com is the place to go to read user reviews about tires. It was very helpful in coming to a decision.)

I'm eyeing the Michelin X Radial DT's at Costco at the monent. Costco also has the BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A's, which are a bit cheaper and look more grunty with the raised white lettering. Online reviews of the Long Trails vary wildly, from really bad to really good. Anybody have OBW experience with these?

"I got charged for platinum plugs, +$10 each. I told them I haden't asked for platinum. She took $40 off the bill." If they gave you $40 back with a smile on their faces, especially when they were right, they got you somewhere else, big-time.

Thanks for the replies so far. Came across Hankook Mileage Plus in PepBoys: 85k miles, 600AB rating, $72 ea. Sounds good on paper, anybody tried these? Ta.

Came across Hankook Mileage Plus in PepBoys: 85k miles, 600AB rating, $72 ea. Sounds good on paper, anybody tried these. Ta.

Strong recommendation there, thanks, but Tirerack says of the Triple Tread : "It was developed to be versatile by combining long wear with traction in any weather condition, including light snow." Light snow? hmmm...

Getting ready to replace the original all-season Michelin P205/70R 15 tires that came with the OB. Should I use Michelin again, or is there somthing better out there value and quality wise? Thanks for all suggestions.

"You will be amazed how much time you spend installing just 4 spark plugs." Given that, does the job have to completed all at once? Would it be wrong to do one or two (with new wires) at a time and drive around for a couple of days before doing the otherS?

Getting set to do the first cramped up SP change on the boxer engine. Found different opinions in previous threads about whether the engine should be warm or cold when taking plugs out/putting them in. Anybody with a definitive answer? Ta. Cold/hot, 30% less torque with anti-sieze, it could be easy to put them in and end up too loose or too tight. Anybody with a good tip for this job they'd like to share?

I know this question has been asked before, but just to make sure I get current info, which online supplier would you recommend for the East Coast? Thanks.

Thanks Nipper, that will be first order of business in the morning after downing a chugalug of coffee.

Whoops, amend that - just checked Haynes again, they have instructions (with pictures!) for checking the transaxle mounts. Something to do in the morning...

So do I just get under the car and see if I can throw the tranny around with a pry bar to check the mount? And how does one check a CV or U joint, does one just jack the car up and wiggle a wheel around? Haynes isn't too much help here. Had the TB done at the beginning of the year, you actually gave me some advice on what needed to be done. Cheers!

Sometimes hear it when the car is slowing down and coming to a halt. Nothing unusual going around corners. To test mounts do I just get under there and see if I can move stuff around that isn't supposed to be moving?