[Will these Lugs fit on Pug rims?]

Those are just standard chrome acorn lug nuts. They will work for the stock Subaru's and will work for stell and the 14" alloys from Peugeot. They will not work on the 15" alloys though.

 

Just out of curiosity. Whats a set of 15" Pug alloys worth? In good shape with crappy tires.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

I hear bamboo has a good strength-to-weight ratio.

 

Bamboo has a stellar strength-to-weight ratio! But I hear that the filler metal to weld it with is REALLY expensive!

[Aluminum lift blocks]

It seems like almost every post has been pertinent, we have all gotten used to the shady irishman pushing his wares on every unsuspecting person on the net. you asked about an ally lift, SJR showed you his.

 

You can't fault people for giving their opinion about the lifts, you say this is your first subie, and this would logically be your first subie lift, you even acknowledged that you are a subie noob, maybe you should listen to all those people that have built and run their own lifts, you start complaining about the info you get, you won't be getting any more help here.

 

Calling Qman a Genius, you're half right, drop the sarcasm and you'd be right on. Of all the people on the board, he'd be the one to have on your side.

 

Like I said, I was only looking for information, not to be sold something. I think I started off by not being specific enough in what I was looking for. So Ill admit, that was my own fault. But once I specified what I was after, still, the sales pitch! So Im sorry if I pissed anyone off, but I am a certified welder and have 2 years of a BA finished in engineering, so I do know just a little about things of "structural nature". I just dont know how much torsion and force is constantly being applied at the body mounts. It stands to reason that since Im dealing with body to drivetrain mounting, it would be a significant load! So I dont know whether or not 1/4 walled aluminum tubing will be strong enough for mild use in the snow and trails. I will go ahead and try it because I have a educated guess that with proper trussing and gusseting, it should handle the job just fine, be lighter, and be prettier (if thats a term that should be used to describe anything on a Sub!). I just didnt want to undertake the task if it was going to fail immediately and this was something that you guys knew and had experience with already! Thank you all for your input.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

I'm sorry, did you want us to throw you a pitty party?

 

Nope, not expecting that, just some pertinnent info without trying to be sold everyones product. If I had wanted to buy someone elses design, I just wouldve made an order while I was at BYB/OZified, Scorpion, or Allied Armament to see how their kits were designed. Anyone can write a check. Thats not why I'm into CHEAP 4x4s.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Yeah, I know, 50 lbs of rocks and 50lbs of feathers...

 

You obviously have extensive experience with Subaru's that all the info that was shared with you is redundant. Never mind that I have built my own lifts and have some insight on the whole process to base my (genius) opinion on. (not sarcasm)

 

Make your better mouse trap. I'm not saying it won't work or even be 16lbs lighter.

 

BTW, the search button is located at the top of each page in the header. Find it, use it and maybe you can figure some of this out for yourself.

 

Well man, I asked an honest legitimate question because I dont have much experience with Subarus. I stated that from the beginning. However, I do have fabrication experience. I didnt join this to be sold everyone elses products so when I was told repeatedly not to even try it, and instead "heres what my kits like, Id reccomend buying one like it!", I thought, what a frickin joke! I just want a little bit of info and so far, two people have responded with pertinnent information and not tryed to sell me anything! What would you expect?

 

So to OZified and the person who posted about JIBs brat; thank you.

 

And to everyone trying to sell me your crap;

Sorry, I'm a broke college student, and I wouldnt buy something I could make myself, even if I did have the money.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

If you have the answers then why are you asking the questions? If this is just a poser(your words) then why are you worried about 10-15 lbs. Yes, that's about the most you could possibly save in weight reduction. Besides, by mixing aluminum with steel bolts you will get a dissimilar metal corrosion. I would be far more worried about that then cracking on a street poser.

 

If you ask the question you should be prepared to accept the answer. If you are not then do not ask the question. You have gotten responses from 3 lift kit manufacturers. Not to mention some who have built there own lifts and rigs.

 

So far, genius, the only one who has answered any thing relating to my question is OZified. I wanted to know if anyone has experienced any cracking with aluminum tubing. NOT that YOUR SYSTEM is the best! Also, unless you were to grind the mill scale off both the bolts and the aluminum, you wouldnt have any problems with "dissimalar metal corrosion". My question is not if a solid cast aluminum lift kit would weigh as much as a steel tubing kit, it is about cracking of aluminum tubing. We all know that 50 lbs of steel tubing and 50 lbs of cast aluminum blocks are going to weigh somewhere in the same neighborhood. SARCASM. IF there is no problem with stress cracking of aluminum tubing, then I believe I can make a FAR lighter kit than what is offered, also for a fraction of the price. However, I did want to investigate knowledgeable peoples experiences to see if they had had any problems with ALUMINUM TUBING. As I figured this would be a wise thing to do before beginning my project. Thank you for your time.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Ozified variations use 6061 "T6" aluminum flat, round, and square bar. Scorpion uses solid aluminum blocks too. The tinsle/crush strength of the solid aluminum or steel tubing versions far exceeds the unibody of the Sube, and the weight savings of solid aluminum vs box steel are negligible. Typical complete kits are ~50 pounds.

 

The concept of using aluminum tubing is a great one for those wanting the very best and I applaud thinking outside the box (pun intended)... though the thought of using TIG for each piece screams labor intensive. Also, I would estimate weight savings at 10-15 pounds, since you still need steel bolts, washers, pitch and steering mods. Then also, based on wall thickness, you may need to anodize or corrosion treat the aluminum tubing - eek, more labor.

 

In reading my ramblings here, I didn't answer your question - "...is it strong enough?"

IMHO - 1/4" wall aluminum tubing with TIG-welded top and bottom plates? - YES*

r/ PK

 

* PK does not claim to be a materials engineer and is not liable for his opinions. :-p

 

 

Thank you for your experience and opinion.

Do you by any chance know the weight of a complete steel kit?

I just have a feeling that the weight savings would be far greater (Naturally it would sacrifice a small amount of strength) than only 10-15 pounds.

 

My reasoning behind this is that this is not going to be a vehicle that sees much off road action, mostly snow trips and light trail work. It will be a poser if you will, and so far, my experience with the EA81 is that it is very durable, but also greatly underpowered, even with exhaust and a 32/36. Even a toolbox is noticeable when merging! SO my mission is to keep the weight down to make the car tolerable for a 100 mile round trip commute in the winter.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Okay, now im understanding your point box tube aluminum, vs, box tube steel. No way in hell would I try it to save ten pounds.

 

The weight savings would be far more than ten pounds. Even by the time you trussed it to make up for aluminums structural inferiority to steel, it would still be far lighter. Aluminum weighs 1/3 of what steel does.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Well obviously solid aluminum blocks are what we are talking about. I know that they would be stronger because they have support all the way through the block. Its obvious that they would way more than steel box tube that we use. As for the builder who wants information, just look at scorpions website, thats all they use is solid aluminum blocks. I say go for it and use it, it will be strong and you wont have to worry about it cracking unless you weld on it and do a poor weld, but even then I highly doubt it would crack.

 

Dude, solid aluminum is just ignorant overkill for such a light vehicle. The whole point of aluminum is to keep it light weight.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Basically, I am wondering if anyone has any experience using 6061 or 6063 series aluminum rectangular tubing with a wall thickness of 1/4" or thicker to make their own lift kit. I realize that multiple groups make their own out of various materials and that "they are the best". However, I am curious if anyone has experienced any problems like torsion cracking, etc. when making their own lift kit from aluminum tubing. I am a welder and fully capable of the project, but I am new to Subarus and have no experience with how much force is applied at the body mounting areas. Many of my friends have made these kits, but none of them had aluminum welding technology, so this is new to us. Any help you could give me would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

It may be slightly stronger, but I don't see how you could benefit from it. It costs more, probably doesn't weigh less, and unless you plan on doing the baha 500 with a turbo charged 2.5 and catching 20 feet of air theres no real reason to go that route. The box tube we use is like industrial strength and we've never had any problems.

 

Did you actually say that it wouldnt weigh less?

[Aluminum lift blocks]

I kinda meant more like building your own from 6000 series aluminum rectangular tubing. It would behave quite a bit different than cast pieces. Anyone have any experience with that? Im only looking at doing a 4inch to have a functional commuter with some "pressence". Thanks.

[Aluminum lift blocks]

Has anyone here ever run aluminum lift blocks, and if so, found any problems such as cracking etc.? After all, weight is the H4s natural enemy.