3eyedwagon
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Posts posted by 3eyedwagon
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Sounds good. You want to make an upper motor mount for your car this week? I'm not sure how much it helps, but it seems like it would. What all are you up to this week? I'm going to be a Woody's all day Saturday. He wanted to do some electrical, and get it all finished.
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OK. Thanks man. I just wanna swap it out, and see if that is the cause for the rear axle bind. Woody has me pretty convinced that that's it. That's pretty much all I need to do to be ready.
I'm gonna go rewire my distributor so the tach stops jumping, and fix my original strut blocks so I'll be back to plus 1" in the front.
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I like option A, the most. The GM idea is bad you and my dad can go hang out if that's the case.
Jeff
Got the door problem solved.
:banana: :banana: I felt that deserved a bunch of dancing bananas.
I seriously would like to meet the man who engineered that setup though. Even though we would have a severe language barrier; I have a feeling he would understand my disdain for his work. He may limp for the rest of his life also.
Hey Jeff,
I was wondering if I could try Justice's old moustache bar while I'm fooling around with a new setup.. Do you have the complete setup, like the brackets that bolt to the body, and the nuts for them? I'm not certain if I can find my old stuff.
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I was wondering if you were going to cut out a small hole in the top then recess it like 2-3 inches..
Yeah, the paint is drying as I write this. I just used some exhaust tubing that fit a can / bottle nice and snug. Recessed it about 3 inches. I wanted just the top of a Coke can to stick out of it. That way it's not sloshing around in there.
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Well at this point, it looks like its going to be woody, Ben and I. All three are lifted brats. Will, did you ever figure out the door issue you had?
Jeff
Haven't figured out the door issue as of yet. I'm still a little disgusted with the whole scenario. I'll work on it this week, and if I can't get it together properly there may be two scenarios playing out very soon:
A: I weld some nuts in the unibody and the drivers door fits poorly.
Then I wheel this thing till I stops moving.B: The whole setup ends up for sale real cheap like, just whoever buys it may not enjoy a drivers doorless trip home.
And then I end up going back to General Motors who actually puts stops in their bodies to prevent these kinds of occurences from happening.
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Ah, down at the Skagit River i see. Sauk mountain sure looks cool from there. i knew i have seen that car rolling around town before. Is that down in crowsfoot?
Yeah, that's on the river in the bottom of 10acres. That place is junk now, but was close by the day I took it for a spin with the new doors.
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For your application, MIG sounds like your best option.
I'm not saying it is your only option, you could try TIG, or even stick. Heck, you could even try submerged arch if you like. TIG will take you much more time to learn. It is a great process for light sheet metals, pipe, and even up to heavier metals. However, it is slow, and kind of difficult to learn. "Stick welding", or SMAW is also great. Stick welding is highly portable, it is cheap to perform, the machines are the cheapest to buy, and they can be run on a small ammount of power. However, stick is also hard for a new welder to learn, it requires the correct storage of welding rod that can go bad, it can be very frustrating, and it does not work well on thin metal.
In all honesty, MIG welding, specifically "Hard Wire" or GMAW is going to be your best bet. IF you desire to some day do much thicker metal, "Dual Shield" or FCAW may also be something you wish to consider. But, you should know that many MIG welding machines can do "Flux Cored", "Hard Wire", and "Dual Shield". Most fair to good welding machines can perform all 3 of these welding procedures with a few simple changes.
For what it sounds like you will be doing, I highly suggest "Hard Wire" welding. It is clean, simple to learn, forgiving, and highly versatile. "Hard Wire" is what is most commonly used by automotive body shops because of its speed, ease of use, and it can be performed cool enough to work really well on the lighter gauge sheet metals. This makes it perfect for what you wish to do. Hard wire also has the range to weld thicker steels, like up to 1" no problem if you have a big enough machine.
As for a machine, I would recommend buying a brand name machine. I'm sure there are a bunch of people in the world that have had good experiences buying a welder off the back of a tool sale truck, but I'd bet there are just as many whom haven't. This machine is going to be a good chunk of change. At least $300 plus, depending on what you buy! So for that kind of change, I would advise you to buck up and get a brand name welder. By this I'm saying; MILLER, LINCOLN, HOBART (Canadian Miller). These companys are the big names for a reason. Miller has won the Consumer Electronics Award for like 23 years in a row
. That's pretty impressive. I'm not advocating one brand or another, and the people who have each will be diehard loyals. It's kinda like comparing Chevy, Ford, and Dodge. At any rate, all 3 of these companys have great little MIG welders that will suite your needs wonderfully. The Millermatic series from Miller, Lincoln has the Power Mig series, and the Hobart Handler series are all great 110v powered welders that will do 1/4" plus steel with the proper metal preparation. You can expect to spend about $700 dollars (with bottle) for one of these setups. If you would like some advice on individual machines, PM me and I'd be glad to help you find one best for you.If I were you, I would start by researching MIG welding. There are literally thousands of videos, books, and websites devoted to the education of welding. The AMERICAN WELDING SOCIETY offers a limited time free membership, and their website is brimming with welding information. Also, most major welding companys have websites that contain valuable welding information as well. I would suggest taking your time when purchasing a machine, and don't just run out and buy the first thing that Jim Bob says is THE BEST EVER. If you buy a good machine, it's going to be around a long time, and you don't want to kick yourself every time you try to use the thing, and it doesn't do what you wanted it to do.
Hope that is of some help. Any questions, let me know.
Good luck!
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very nice......seems to me a popular design.allows just the right amount of eyeball when needed.good job.don't forget to paint so you don;t ahve to put them down from the "rust".cheers, brian
Yeah, I hear you there. I just came in from the shop, finished smearing some glaze, and sanding them. A few more little trinkets to put on, like my flexy mirrors (darn state laws), some beverage holders
, and they will be ready for paint.Team CF, I'm definitely a friend of the mud, but I'm gonna have to watch it. The interior on my wagon is in pretty darn good shape, and I hope to keep it that way. Luckily, those doors change out in like 2 minutes!
What I couldn't believe was the weight savings between the stock door, and the cut ones. I knew all the glass, guts, interior pieces, and etc. weighed alot, but I was still awed by how much weight difference there is between the two. I'll weigh one of each, a stock roll up window, a stock power window, and my "2/3 door" as I like to call it.
Chris, You really gonna Lambo that RX?
:)I'll have no part in it!
The kits are pretty cheap, and they really aren't that hard to do. There's a whole bunch of manufacturers for the kits in pretty much any Street-Truck, or Rice-Rocket mag out there. I knows there's TONS of ads for them in all my "Street Trucks" magazines. I think they're like $400-$1000, all depending on if you want them motorized or not.
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Yeah, I thought that's what they looked best for. The BFG at's work great in the snow. I figured these would clog up in mud, and anything too sticky, but probably float pretty good in the snow. Thanks!
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Anyone who lives in Washington knows it only takes a little bit of sunshine to get us all excited for summer time.
My answer to the recent good weather was to get the wagon ready for summer wheelin' trips! So, I made me some half doors.... I took it out for a spin about 5:00pm, and man.....
I left the door handles, because I like 2nd gen door handles. I'm really glad I did, the meat left above it makes a great armrest.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19203&limit=recent
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19201&limit=recent
If these links don't work, the photos are in my gallery. I had a little trouble sizing them down, but they aren't too bad considering they're from my phone.
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Good deal! Do you have many miles on them? I'm wondering how well they wear over time..... Thanks
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After the weather today, I'm sure hoping it is nice for this trip.
Not that I dislike some tacky mud to play in. It would just be nice to see some sunshine.
Now that I think about it, I've never been to Walker when the sun was shining.
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Smoke?
Smoke?
Hmmmmm..
I think I like smoke.
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Hey Nick,
Glad to see you are having fun, and resolved your problem! I hope I could be of some help. I really like the seats in your super clean Brat.
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Just wondering if anyone has tried these.
The kinda look similar to the BFG All Terrain.
They make them in some Subaru friendly sizes too:
27x8.50x14
205x75x15
215x75x15
30x9.50x15
235x75x15
So,
IF you have ever TRIED/USED these:
LET US KNOW WHAT YOU THINK.
Thanks!
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OK. I figured the seal would be hard to find by application. I'm just gonna try to hunt one down with the old magic NAPA seal book. Thanks for your help.
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Measure the ID and OD of the seal and order one from a seal/bearing house. Look in the phone book.
Keep in mind that this is metric land - you'll have to measure in metric. Use digital calipers.
Viton would be a good choice of material if you can get it.
Also the grease inside the rack & pinion gear housing is VERY SPECIAL. It's also insanely expensive from Subaru. I reused the grease that was in the last one I took apart. It's a lithium based gear grease that doesn't "flow" so it won't run out of the rack into the boots. It's "sticky" and white. There's probably some equivelent out there but I don't know what.
GD
Do you know by any chance, how to remove the steering input shaft on that? I've cleaned that groove around it all out, and I don't see any snap ring or anything else of the sorts.
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i have read what you wrote, have you? by these lines you are illuding to a fallacy that holes have to be cut for the 5speed and someone won't stay warm. my interior shift boot from the EA81, the EA81 center counsel and the EA81 4WD lever fit just fine in my EA81 with an EA82 5 speed and i stay toasty warm. so, what holes are you refering to, if you do it correctly, you can use all the stock components. but hell what do i know... i've only been wheeling and modifing my own subaru's for 8 years...
Wow. I'm in awe with your brilliance.
I did not illude to any fallacy of holes needing to be cut for the 5 speed. That is my reflection as to the original comment made in my original post about taking the time to do it right. Then all the stuff fits like it did originally. I made no comment about the modifications necessary to use a 5 speed.
You are looking for an argument where there isn't one. This whole post is about What everyone did for their shift linkage. Not what transmission is best for what. I relayed what I did for my linkage, in detail, so that I could possibly be of some assistance.
If you have any linkage advice for this guy: I suggest helping him out, rather than sitting back and picking arguments. It's always super easy to sit behind a computer screen and give short blurb answers that are of no use, and nitpick other peoples ideas. That crap is really of no use to anyone here, and the more people that do that on here; the quicker this board will become totally useless.
Well, I for one am all out of pee. SO I guess this contest is over.
You win.
Besides, I have far better things to do with my day than argue over the internet about who has more experience with what.
You are the MAAAAEOWWWNAH! (man)
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Thanks for the info.
If anyone has any info on re-sealing an Ea81 power steering rack input shaft, please let me know.
As to the steps involved. IE:
A: How to remove the input shaft. This info would be the most valuable to me, as once I have the old seal, I may (A big MAY mind you) be able to find a new one.
B: Where I could find a new seal itself.
Thanks!
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hmmm... but once again, i use all stock plastics and stock hole, no trimming of the tunnel was needed and the boot still covers the hole... the only trimming or dents in the tunnel were from when i used a 4 speed tranny. used it for several years, but the 5 speed is still a lot nicer for day to day and offroad use; due to the actual gearing differances. your 4th gear is the same as my 5th gear gear ratio.
I think you missed my point. Re-read it twice and get back to me.
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I realize that would be easiest. But I would prefer to fix the one in the car.
So, If anyone has any info on re-sealing the one I have; That would be a great help!
THANKS
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I don't know what you'd need to cut holes for... i'm still using the ea81 4wd shifter through the stock hole on my 5 speed. takes some adjustment but is not hard to use the stock shifter. it's not just better for offroad use. the 5 speed you actually have 4 useable gears on the highway with oversized tires. ie better gas mileage and more speed. I ran the 4 speed for a couple years, after getting a 5 speed it's a lot more highway friendly and I wouldn't go back to a 4 speed.
I didn't need to cut any holes. What I said is this; the stock plastics and shifter boots cover the stock hole. Thus, I have no air entering the cab through the floor, and I stay warm. As for the 4 speed; I use all 4 gears every day, and they are all very useful. I got a speeding ticket a month ago for 68mph, and I average about 30mpg. That's all on 28s. Some of my friends run 30s/31s, and the only thing they miss is 1st gear.
It's obvious that if you are going to lift a car, and use larger tires, a 5 speed would be preferable for the 1st gear advantage, and to obtain a larger clutch. Plus the linkage does look much simpler to fabricate.
However, If you do not have a 5 speed at your disposal; I wouldn't let the completion of a car be held up by that.
So, If you only have a 4 speed high/low;
Above are my tips on how to best utilize your stock 2nd gen 4 speed with a lift. If you have a perfectly good four speed in your car when you lift it, and can't find or afford the 5 speed swap; Don't just toss the 4 speed in your backyard, and wait to find a 5 speed because everyone online says so. The 4 speed linkage isn't that much harder to fabricate. The 4 speed works just fine with all but the largest tires.
If you're waiting for a 5 speed or really don't care, the 4 speed will move the car down the road just fine.
AND THE BEST PART:
:banana:ANOTHER SUBARU ON THE ROAD!
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So, I looked all over the place for this info, but couldn't find it.
Have any of you ever re-sealed the steering input shaft on an EA81 Power steering rack assembly? I'm talking about the shaft into the steering rack that the steering stem hooks to.
Mine has a leak from that seal, and I would much rather fix it than get a new one!
Thanks for any help you can give me!
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seemed pretty thorough. if I remember correctly we heated up and bent mine, all I can say is go 5 speed. better gearing, and that one extra gear before overdrive.
I agree a 5 speed would be better on a pure wheeler. That lower first gear would help if you had much larger tires.
But I definitely wouldn't let the shortage of a 5 speed prevent me from finishing and driving a car with a 4 speed in it. I was originally going to use my 4 speed until I could find/afford a 5 speed, but now my 4 speed is staying. It works just fine with 27"/28" ish tires and all the stock interior boots/plastics fit back in their stock locations. No holes, and this means I stay warm all winter!
Walker Run March 15th 2008
in Off Road
Posted
Yeah. He's been working hard on it. The bumpers are done. It just needs a little bit of wiring done, and a few odds-n-ends tied up. I'm pretty pumped to see that thing on the road. From literally sitting in a field, on its' body, to Walker in a couple of long months. It'll be good to have another one on the road in MV.