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About hawksoob

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    USMB is life!

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  1. The ground wire in the front is connected just fine. I actually had to reconnect that one when I was having weird electrical problems in the past (sudden stops or rapid deceleration would cause all electrical to go out - fixed by reconnecting that ground wire that had corroded away.) I'll see if hooking this one up helps anything. Shot in the dark, sure. We'll see. :-\
  2. Thanks. While I was looking at that, I found this: A wire connected to the engine compartment that looks like it should have a connector on the other end, but the connector is no longer there. I suppose that's a ground wire. Where does it go? Could that be relevant?
  3. '96 obw, 2.2L 5MT Friday night I drove about 150 miles from Knoxville, TN, to Manchester, TN. Going up a long, steady slope, I started to lose acceleration under heavy load. And if I were in 3rd gear, for example, the engine would rev very high (4k+), but if I shifted up into 4th, it would drop down to less that 2k and almost stall. When I finally got off an exit and pulled up to a red light, it did stall. I finally got it started and limped it into a gas station. When it was idling, the engine was shaking back and forth like crazy. It took a while, but I finally got it started again. I had 15 more miles to go to get to my hotel. Luckily, that part of the highway was going down the other side of this incline, so it was smooth sailing. Once I got to my hotel and stopped, it stalled again. The next morning, it wouldn't even start. A shadetree mechanic took a look at it and said it could be the plugs. Misfiring and such. He replaced the plugs, but still no start. He said that the two on the passenger side of the engine were wet. Not oily, but wet. Checked to be sure no water was in the oil and no oil in the coolant. There was none in either case. (Does that rule out head gasket?) It will crank, but just won't start. Shadetree suggested maybe the coil pack. Thing is, I'm pretty much getting a new car, anyway. But if I could get this thing running again, maybe I could sell it. Any suggestions?
  4. If you're able to, have you shopped around? I had mine replaced by a dealer in Atlanta and the whole thing only cost me right around $900, including parts. Part was $450 or so, and 5 hours of labor at $90/hour.
  5. Makes much sense. Tried it. The bulb lights up and nothing sparked, exploded, or melted, so I think I'm good to go. Thanks.
  6. 1996 OBW. Bought it 6 years ago with 127k on it. It now has 216k. Has had 3 clutches put in (surely my fault), VCU replaced, timing belt broke on me one time. The tie rod ends are going to be replaced next week. Various oil leaks over the years. I really think its previous owner wasn't too kind to it. I try to baby it as much as I can. No plans to get rid of it any time soon.
  7. Sorry about that. Got in a rush 96 Legacy Outback, 2.2. It's the driver's side headlight. The connector harness for the 9003 bulb. The thing melted and I want to replace it.
  8. The new harness has red, green, and black wires. The wires coming from the car are red, red with blue stripe, and yellow with blue stripe. Which splices to which? Thanks.
  9. Ha! Turn the key, push the black button hanging from the keyless entry system, locks cycle 3 times, all is hunky dorey. I thought that was right, and it was. Trouble is, one of the wires coming from the button was broken off, so it wasn't doing anything. A little slicing and splicing, and all is well. Dang this 12 year old car. Thanks for the help. I will certainly take the thing in to a shop and have the alrt checked, though. Just to be sure. *Edit* Don't know why my head kept wanting to type "wireless" entry system.
  10. It's weird. I just went out to go to the store and the car wouldn't start at all. No clicking or anything when I turned the key. No electricity anywhere. I opened the hood and looked for any loose wires and didn't see anything, but I noticed a lot of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. I brushed a bunch of the crud off and suddenly the dome light came on and the I was able to start it right up. Drove it to the store and tried the "hit the brakes, turn off the stereo" thing, and it didn't do it. Coincidence? Oh, since the power failed, the flashy flashy thing is going on and I don't have the wireless key fob. I recall a technique involving pushing the black button on the wireless entry system's black box - I've done it before, but I think I forgot the procedure. I'll search for it, but if anyone responds between now and then with THAT info at hand, that would be appreciated. Many thanks.
  11. I know I've seen something about this before, but I can't seem to find the info in a search. Car: 96 Legacy Outback, 2.2L, 5MT Problem: Driving around, turn on the AC, I hear a high-pitched whining noise. Then, whenever I hit the brakes, the dash lights and stereo go out, ever so briefly. Could it be the ALT? I would hate to think so because I just had it replaced a couple of years ago. Can they go bad in such a brief time? This only happens after I turn on the AC (this time of year it's infrequent, of course, but I occasionally use it to help defog the inside of the windshield). I did have a similar problem recently, but found it to be a short in a ground wire. However, when it happened then, not only did the dash and stereo go out when I hit the brakes, but the entire car shut off and all the dash lights came on. Thanks!
  12. After a month and a half of putting off doing anything about his, I went ahead and just took it someplace else to get an alignment and new tires. There were no problems there. No mention of bad tie rods or anything. Just alignment and new tires. It rides great now. After seeing 15 pages of complaints on ripoffreport.com about Firestone adding on fictitious repairs when people originally came in for basic maintenance issues, I doubt I'll be going back there again.
  13. So, after too long of neglecting my tires, I noticed that the two fronts were showing uneven wear. Like big time. Outside edge worn down to the second layer of rubber. So, I figured, of course, I needed an alignment. I took it to F-stone and had them do my free w/purchase rotation and then do an alignment. I get a call from them about a half hour later telling me that they couldn't do an alignment unless they replaced the inner tie rods. They were bad and that was causing the misalignment. I ended up leaving the place with a $1000 estimate (inner tie rods, alignment, new tires, and a bunch of other crap not associated with anything - fuel system cleaning, bulb replacements, etc.). Thing is, I have no problems with steering. No clunking noise when making sharp turns, which I understand is a symptom of bad tie rods. I noticed when I was changing my oil and checking other fluids that my PS fluid was way low, so I filled that up. Wouldn't think that would have anything to do with anything, though. Just a coincidence, but might be notable. I haven't gotten on the highway to check anything yet. It basically veers to the right when I let go of the wheel on the highway. So, can an inner tie rod be bad enough to cause alignment issues without making any noise? How pressing is this? The estimate for just the tie rods was around $380. That sound about right for parts and labor? Thanks, Hawk
  14. Yeah. At least it's not haunted, as was my original theory.
  15. Not sure if it was related, but who knows? Yesterday, while driving about, the gauges and radio would intemittently just go out. Motor kept running; just the gauges and radio would completely shut off, then right back on again. I had Advance Auto test the battery and alternator and everything tested fine. I made it home ok, but the electrical dash stuff (idiots lights not affected, however) kept occurring. This morning I checked about the engine compartment to see if I could find any loose wires anywhere and I noticed the ground wire from the Neg terminal on the battery to the front of the car had become corroded and frayed to the point of just hanging there by a thread. I cut off the corroded end of both of the leads and hooked it all back up. This fixed my radio and gauge problem from yesterday, and so far, the original problem I posted about hasn't occured. Perhaps I found the culprit?