hawksoob

The ground wire in the front is connected just fine. I actually had to reconnect that one when I was having weird electrical problems in the past (sudden stops or rapid deceleration would cause all electrical to go out - fixed by reconnecting that ground wire that had corroded away.) I'll see if hooking this one up helps anything. Shot in the dark, sure. We'll see. :-\

Thanks. While I was looking at that, I found this: A wire connected to the engine compartment that looks like it should have a connector on the other end, but the connector is no longer there. I suppose that's a ground wire. Where does it go? Could that be relevant?

'96 obw, 2.2L 5MT Friday night I drove about 150 miles from Knoxville, TN, to Manchester, TN. Going up a long, steady slope, I started to lose acceleration under heavy load. And if I were in 3rd gear, for example, the engine would rev very high (4k+), but if I shifted up into 4th, it would drop down to less that 2k and almost stall. When I finally got off an exit and pulled up to a red light, it did stall. I finally got it started and limped it into a gas station. When it was idling, the engine was shaking back and forth like crazy. It took a while, but I finally got it started again. I had 15 more miles to go to get to my hotel. Luckily, that part of the highway was going down the other side of this incline, so it was smooth sailing. Once I got to my hotel and stopped, it stalled again. The next morning, it wouldn't even start. A shadetree mechanic took a look at it and said it could be the plugs. Misfiring and such. He replaced the plugs, but still no start. He said that the two on the passenger side of the engine were wet. Not oily, but wet. Checked to be sure no water was in the oil and no oil in the coolant. There was none in either case. (Does that rule out head gasket?) It will crank, but just won't start. Shadetree suggested maybe the coil pack. Thing is, I'm pretty much getting a new car, anyway. But if I could get this thing running again, maybe I could sell it. Any suggestions?

If you're able to, have you shopped around? I had mine replaced by a dealer in Atlanta and the whole thing only cost me right around $900, including parts. Part was $450 or so, and 5 hours of labor at $90/hour.

Makes much sense. Tried it. The bulb lights up and nothing sparked, exploded, or melted, so I think I'm good to go. Thanks.

1996 OBW. Bought it 6 years ago with 127k on it. It now has 216k. Has had 3 clutches put in (surely my fault), VCU replaced, timing belt broke on me one time. The tie rod ends are going to be replaced next week. Various oil leaks over the years. I really think its previous owner wasn't too kind to it. I try to baby it as much as I can. No plans to get rid of it any time soon.

Sorry about that. Got in a rush 96 Legacy Outback, 2.2. It's the driver's side headlight. The connector harness for the 9003 bulb. The thing melted and I want to replace it.

The new harness has red, green, and black wires. The wires coming from the car are red, red with blue stripe, and yellow with blue stripe. Which splices to which? Thanks.

Ha! Turn the key, push the black button hanging from the keyless entry system, locks cycle 3 times, all is hunky dorey. I thought that was right, and it was. Trouble is, one of the wires coming from the button was broken off, so it wasn't doing anything. A little slicing and splicing, and all is well. Dang this 12 year old car. Thanks for the help. I will certainly take the thing in to a shop and have the alrt checked, though. Just to be sure. *Edit* Don't know why my head kept wanting to type "wireless" entry system.

It's weird. I just went out to go to the store and the car wouldn't start at all. No clicking or anything when I turned the key. No electricity anywhere. I opened the hood and looked for any loose wires and didn't see anything, but I noticed a lot of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. I brushed a bunch of the crud off and suddenly the dome light came on and the I was able to start it right up. Drove it to the store and tried the "hit the brakes, turn off the stereo" thing, and it didn't do it. Coincidence? Oh, since the power failed, the flashy flashy thing is going on and I don't have the wireless key fob. I recall a technique involving pushing the black button on the wireless entry system's black box - I've done it before, but I think I forgot the procedure. I'll search for it, but if anyone responds between now and then with THAT info at hand, that would be appreciated. Many thanks.

I know I've seen something about this before, but I can't seem to find the info in a search. Car: 96 Legacy Outback, 2.2L, 5MT Problem: Driving around, turn on the AC, I hear a high-pitched whining noise. Then, whenever I hit the brakes, the dash lights and stereo go out, ever so briefly. Could it be the ALT? I would hate to think so because I just had it replaced a couple of years ago. Can they go bad in such a brief time? This only happens after I turn on the AC (this time of year it's infrequent, of course, but I occasionally use it to help defog the inside of the windshield). I did have a similar problem recently, but found it to be a short in a ground wire. However, when it happened then, not only did the dash and stereo go out when I hit the brakes, but the entire car shut off and all the dash lights came on. Thanks!

After a month and a half of putting off doing anything about his, I went ahead and just took it someplace else to get an alignment and new tires. There were no problems there. No mention of bad tie rods or anything. Just alignment and new tires. It rides great now. After seeing 15 pages of complaints on ripoffreport.com about Firestone adding on fictitious repairs when people originally came in for basic maintenance issues, I doubt I'll be going back there again.

So, after too long of neglecting my tires, I noticed that the two fronts were showing uneven wear. Like big time. Outside edge worn down to the second layer of rubber. So, I figured, of course, I needed an alignment. I took it to F-stone and had them do my free w/purchase rotation and then do an alignment. I get a call from them about a half hour later telling me that they couldn't do an alignment unless they replaced the inner tie rods. They were bad and that was causing the misalignment. I ended up leaving the place with a $1000 estimate (inner tie rods, alignment, new tires, and a bunch of other crap not associated with anything - fuel system cleaning, bulb replacements, etc.). Thing is, I have no problems with steering. No clunking noise when making sharp turns, which I understand is a symptom of bad tie rods. I noticed when I was changing my oil and checking other fluids that my PS fluid was way low, so I filled that up. Wouldn't think that would have anything to do with anything, though. Just a coincidence, but might be notable. I haven't gotten on the highway to check anything yet. It basically veers to the right when I let go of the wheel on the highway. So, can an inner tie rod be bad enough to cause alignment issues without making any noise? How pressing is this? The estimate for just the tie rods was around $380. That sound about right for parts and labor? Thanks, Hawk

Yeah. At least it's not haunted, as was my original theory.

Not sure if it was related, but who knows? Yesterday, while driving about, the gauges and radio would intemittently just go out. Motor kept running; just the gauges and radio would completely shut off, then right back on again. I had Advance Auto test the battery and alternator and everything tested fine. I made it home ok, but the electrical dash stuff (idiots lights not affected, however) kept occurring. This morning I checked about the engine compartment to see if I could find any loose wires anywhere and I noticed the ground wire from the Neg terminal on the battery to the front of the car had become corroded and frayed to the point of just hanging there by a thread. I cut off the corroded end of both of the leads and hooked it all back up. This fixed my radio and gauge problem from yesterday, and so far, the original problem I posted about hasn't occured. Perhaps I found the culprit?

Nope. I do have to push the clutch all the way to start the car. Although I do have issues with starting it in cold temps. I turn the key. No start. Pump the gas and turn again and it starts right up. But that actually started happening last winter, so I wouldnt think it's connected. Thanks for the input.

Happy New Year, first of all. Been awhile since I've been on here. I guess that means I've been lucky with no issues. Anyhooo, stats first: 1996OBW, 2.2L, 5MT, 200K miles. Recently had a CEL. Came up as P0500 - vehicle speed sensor. The CEL then went off and has not reappeared. Early November, I replaced fuel filter, air filter, and PCV valve. Lately,when I quickly decellerate, like coming off a freeway exit ramp and slowing to stop at a stop light, the engine stalls completely. I can very quickly restart it and get moving just fine, but this is definitely an issue. It seems to happen more frequently when I'm coming to a stop while turning around a curve. In case it should somehow be related, since it happens while braking, I've had te ABS light come on intermittantly, too. That's probably unlikely, but I want to give all the info I can. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I haven't been on in a while, which I guess is a good thing, since I haven't had any issues to get advice about. Well, now there's some issueage. Recently on these hot-as-a-field-of-burining-stumps days in the South, I've noticed that my AC is pretty much AWOL when the car is idling. Nice and frosty when on the road. Sitting in a parking lot - warm to hot air coming out. What's up with that? I've never had the AC recharged in the 4 years and 70K miles I've had it. Is this a symptom of low charge of freon? Or could the culprit be a darker, deeper, more nefarious (and more expensive) spectre? Thanks

I recall something kooky from the manual for my 96OBW re: the cig lighter - Basically it said if you use the cig lighter for anything other than a cig lighter (i.e. plug an electrical device into it) it ceases to work as a cig lighter from that point on. The actual input socket is reshapen and becomes useless for anything other than an electrical device with a car plug adapter. So, it's nothing electrical behind the socket, it's the socket itself that's screwed up.

With 1/4 tank showing you actually may have more like 1/3 or more remaining. You really can't go by what the gas gauge says. To get your mileage more accurately: 1. Fill up 2. Zero out trip odometer 3. Drive around for a week or so 4. Fill up 5. Divide the number of miles on the trip odometer by the number of gallons you just put in to fill up. That's your mileage for that week. Keep a log. Do this at every fillup (Assuming you fill up at every fuel stop, instead of just putting $5 here and $7.49 there, etc.). If you start to notice a drastic decrease in mileage over time, then you have an indicator of something possibly needing to be addressed ... air filter, fuel filter, etc. You should be getting around 22-27 mpg.

Seems mostly when I turn the key, immediately before the motor turns over. I think I've heard the ABS thing before. It's not a rattle or anything, more a sound of warbly scurrying ... hence the squirrels.. :-\

Ever since I've had the 96OBW, I've noticed this noise ... always assumed it's normal, but I was just curious. What's that noise that sounds like nesting squirrels that occurs immediate when turning the key and starting the car. Last about a second, then goes away?

Mine cost about $950. That was at the dealer. The independent shop A. wasn't too sure about how to do it and B. figured to charge me about $1200.

Discovered a Lifecycle 6500 professional health club model (read: LARGE and sturdy) exercise bike at a thrift store a few weeks back. The $20 price was too irresistable not to take it home, considering those things cost hundreds used and a couple thousand new. I was quite pleased to have it fit just fine in the wagaon. Yay!

Bought the '96 in 2001. Since then I've replaced 2 clutches at $650 each, the VC unit at $1000, 3 timing belts (first was a "just in case because I have no idea as to PO's maintenance habits," 2nd was oil leak on from oil pump seal leading to a TB change just cuz we're there, 3rd was when it snapped, presumably because the water pump went - grand total of $1500, including the water pump on the last repair); 2 or 3 CV axles $150ea., a brake master cylinder ($200) in addition to standard maintenance, much of which I've been doing myself. So, a total of ~ $4450 in 4 years. ~$92/month, or $.07 per mile. I rationalize it in that it's still considerably less than a car payment, and it's generally much cheaper to repair than replace. Some friends tell me I should just buy another car, but any car that I could afford right now would be of similar age and mileage and would likely need similar repairs over time. As it is now, I figure I have at least 40K on the newest clutch (that's what I got on the last one, but much of its earlier life was victim to an inexperienced user in the hills of East Tennessee) another 160K on the new VCU, another 65K on the timing belt ... plenty more life on all the other stuff I've recently replaced. As long as the engine doesn't go out and the tranny holds up, I should be set until I decide to get rid of it ... if I even do. The only thing I haven't had much issue with is the suspension, but I'm sure I'll need new shocks and struts sometime soon, but that would be considered regular maintenance, anyway.