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I have always used subaru remaned axles and they always fit just right. Taking slight pressure to get the axle seated in the bearing. My problem started with the new bearings being out of spec but still usable, didnt take quite as much to get the axle in as yours did, but still bearings should not come out with the axle. Ill check what brand the bearings are when I get back to the car. Thinking of using these bearings, any opinions? double sealed & abec-1 ( select regular for abec-1) http://www.mcmaster.com/#6207-ball-bearings/=fbzpyp

Finally got it up in the air and checked some stuff out, drive shaft is fine as far as I can tell. When spinning the drivers side front wheel in neutral I can hear some rumbling. Pretty sure it needs wheel bearings. Last time I put in wheel bearings (pass side) it seemed much hard to get the axle thru the new ones vs old good ones - how tight is to tight? I had to take that same axle out of the new bearings (ripped boot ;P) and when doing so the inner wheel bearing came out with the axle. This is telling me the tolerance is to tight in the axle shaft and not tight enough in the knuckle. Thought I would mention this and see what people have to say. Ive done quite a few axles in different subarus and never had this much of a problem getting an axle out and back in the wheels bearing. I double checked both sides to make sure the washer is on correctly.

I didn't get a chance to look at it yet, it will be the first thing I look at though. My brother had the same issue on a gl few years ago and it all kinds of noise.

Steering wheel does shake very little - more at higher speeds, 45 and up.

Its def a rotating noise, pretty sure the suspension is good. I did notice it turns slightly faster/easier more one way then the other - what is this a sign of? The inner boot ripped twice on pass side and reapaired right away, last time was 2-3 months ago. Wondering if I should open it up and pack more lube in there and see if the noise changes at all. hope the axle doesnt need replaced - they are the last subaru remaned ones I can get according the subaru parts guy. I put the bearings in by tapping on the outer race with a 1" dia. aluminum round bar. When I do the normal wheel bearing check by grabbing the tire at 12 & 6 I get a slight knock on both front wheels. Has been this way for 6-7 yrs. I will def chack the drive shaft when I get home tonight. Thanks

92 loyale wagon 4x4 5-speed Started hearing a noise from I think is coming from the passenger side front. I replaced the wheel bearings thinking that was it and its still there. As the suspension goes up and down over slight changes in the road the noise changes some, also changes when turning as the car pitches from side to side. I know its not an outer cv joint (i have heard those before) or the wheel bearings( new). Only thing left is the inner cv joint. I have rebooted this inner cv joint twice in the past - but I caught it early both times within 1-3 days. Is there any way I can figure out if it is the inner cv joint before buying a new one and end not fixing the issue. I also have a 90 automatic loyale parts car - can I use those axles in a manual car. I think I read somewhere they are differnt but cant hurt to ask. Thanks

I dont think i have ever seen or heard the aux/elect. fan run. Looking for ways to test it and find out why I have never seen it on. Asuming I can run 12v to it, just to see if the motor is even any good. Thanks for your help

Ill try pumping fast and see if any presure builds. There is allot of noise coming from the MC area makes me think its shot.

Clear all codes and drive it some and see if you get a cel. Even if you dont get a cel check the codes in memory. Ive cleared codes and had no cel come on but then checked the memory codes and had some. Kinda weird but it happened.

The car sat for awhile and a mech. said it needed replaced. I couldnt remember what the brakes felt like before, so I replaced it, they felt better but wanst sure if they were 100% around 10,000 miles ago

there are 2 of them under the intake just follow the line from the egr to the correct one, the have diff plugs on them Mine went bad and i found a used one with wrong plug just rewired it and has been good for the past 4 yrs.

I put a new master cylinder in a little over a yr ago:mad: was parts store master cylinder if that matters much. When I was bench bleeding it I remember it beeing hard to push esp more then 1/2 way had to lean into it to get it to travel the whole way. Maybe a bad part.

92 loyale, 4wd, spfi. The brakes have been somewhat week over the last yr or so. Peddle travel when braking was long and would only start to slow/stop the car at the last 30% of peddle travel. Was getting pretty tired of it so I decided to see how well it would actually stop the car or if it would even lock up the tires at all. So I pushed on it pretty hard then it felt like something blew and peddle go to the floor. The odd part is I cant find any fluid leaking, master cylinder is still full????????????????????? I pushed on it enough trying to find the leak it should have been empty by now. getting alot of air noise coming from the master cylinder area. If the booster is blown I wouldnt think it would act like this. didnt see any rips in the boot under the fill cap either. Any ideas on where to start, maybe try bleeding them and see what happens. Thanks

yea, prob would give the same results or at least less of a bang. Mine still gave a small clunk without disengaging the clutch. maybe thats how they were when the cars were new also.

I noticed mine takes a bit of time to disengage and then it bangs out of 4wd also. Now I push the clutch in right as I turn it off and its smooth and disengages right away. This doesnt fix the problem but at least it wont be banging out of 4wd, cant be good fot it.

After clearing the codes I drove it for a day and the cel came on and went off like it normally does, got home and read the memory codes and had the same ones. I replaced the distributor and it seems to have smoothed it out some but not completely (trying to remember what the car actually felt like before all this). I replaced it with one from an automatic car, does that make any difference? Also the green connectors work now . I havent had a chance to drive very far to see what codes come up next. Doing the brakes on it now.

I searched but nothing related came up. Car info 92 loyale, 4wd, spfi. Latest problem is a cel that comes on and goes off, along with engine shaking at idle – warm or cold, when warm hesitates some when starting off from a stop, also hesitates bad when cold anywhere between idle and 3000 rpm. Last night I read the stored codes and these came up: 11Crank angle sensor or circuit 13Crank angle sensor or circuit 32Oxygen sensor or circuit I cleared them to see what comes up the next time the cel comes up and decides to disappear in 5 min. After clearing them I plug in the green connector to see what would come up code wise and noticed the check engine light didn’t flash and the fuel pump didn’t cycle??????? All I got was a ticking coming from the part attached I think to the egr valve thru a vaccum line. Stopped ticking after I disconnected them. Recently I did the timing belts (yes there correct went over them several times and redid them once) I set the timing with green connectors connected, at least I thought they were connected. Will this throw the timing that far off to cause the issue I stated above and can I set the timing without them connected and to what degree. I cranked the engine (by hand) to 20 degrees and the rotor is pointing right at cylinder #1 wire. Thanks for you help

Yea - tensioners are good. Checked for vaccum leaks also didnt find any. I read the codes WITHOUT the memory plugs connected and theres nothing. (cel not on but does come on and go off) read them WITH the memory plugs connected: 11Crank angle sensor or circuit 13Crank angle sensor or circuit 32Oxygen sensor or circuit question is - how old are these codes. Assuming I should clear them and drive it again till I get a cel, then read the codes. I also have a used dist. that I know is good and just swap them and see what happens.

Did a comp. check last night all cylinders came up with in a few psi of 130. I checked it when the engine was fully warmed up and cranked the engine with the gauge hooked up (coil wire off of course). Guessing this is the correct way to do it. Please correct me if I am wrong. Just to see what it acted like I pulled the plug wire off the one cylinder I suspected was an issue and attempted to drive the car - pretty much impossible to drive. So that rules out that cylinder being any type of issue. Other then the vibration at idle and some hesitating pulling away from a stop it drives fine. Going to look for vaccum leaks now.

Positive it did not run like this prior to the belt breaking. Its spfi so I would think that rules out the injector being at fualt, unless I am missing something. Im not real familar with the electrical aspect of this car, is there something electrical or computer controled that could cause a cylinder not to fire at the correct time, but still fire? I wouldnt think so but I thought I would throw it out there. I checked that all plug wires are routed correctly.

So far I redid the timing belts over the weekend and made sure everything done correctly. Drove it for two days and still lacks power and still has a vibration at idle. Today I left it running after getting home and pulled of one plug wire at a time and when I pulled off either one off from the passanger side head it all but stalled the engine. Moved over to the driver side head and pulled the rear drivers plug wire and it had some effect but not like the two on the pass side did. Pulled the front drivers side plug wire off and no change at all. I could see & hear the spark arching to the plug so I know its got spark.:-\ I have a comp. tester but it was getting dark maybe ill try that tommorow. It was the drivers side timing belt that broke, fyi. Is this engine a non interfearance or not? Thanks

92 Loyale, 4wd, manual. Having some issue after reaplacing the timing belts. Start from the begining. car has run great till now. Driver side timing belt broke while driving. Got it home fixed the belts (Ive done them before so its nothing new). checked the timing with the green plug connected =18btdc disconnected it and drove it for a few days. noticed it had a really bad flat spot between 2-3k. It also lopes at idle, and hesitates from a stop and in other gears from time to time. hestates bad in 5th gear on the highway also between 2-3k. Fuel milage is down. During highway drives over 8 miles long the check engine light would come on, then go off after a 1/2 mile of driving on back roads, so I was never able to check it while on. Im assuming the computer doesnt store codes. Not sure if this has anythiong to do with it but I notices the elec. fan was never plugged in, so I plugged that in during the belt change. Yesterday I checked the belts were on correctly, changed the plugs, set timing at 20btdc and it seems to run a good bit better but it still lopes at idle. Old plugs didnt seem bad, other then normal wear. Hope somebody has an idea of whats going on. Thanks

Found this fuel pump on ebay and wanted to confirm that it would work in my 92 loyale wagon, 1.8 spfi, 4x4. I searched and couldnt find much on it. sorry if it seems like I am beating a dead horse, but this seems like a good buy compared to ones sold in local parts stores. Also is there a strainer/filter inside the fuel tank? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SUBARU-LOYALE-RX-XT-XT6-GL-10-FUEL-PUMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem2e98583d2aQQitemZ200124415274QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Thanks

Are there any benifits from using one? More power, beter mpg, ect. Could it possibly be worse for the car? The car is a 92 loyale 4x4 (ea-82) I searched but didnt find anything. Thanks

Thanks for the warning. That may just be the way to go (take it to a garage). I am going to test fit the y pipe now and see if thats even close to bolting up to the rest of the stock exhaust. I looked at the 2wd drive mid pipe on the site and I think the cat will clear the bearing housing but it looks like the tube may hit the drive shaft. From the looks of it, the ones I have will work if I can get the cat cut out and rewelded were it should be. Its about 6-8" to far to the rear of the car.